"Fixing" Tapered Brake Pads
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
"Fixing" Tapered Brake Pads
I experienced an erratic long, soft pedal with longitudinally tapered pads:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...l-problem.html
I'm not one to toss pads when there is friction material left(especially some ST-47's, but then again that's why I'm the one changing pads between sessions) so here is what I tried to "fix" them.
I had them put on a magnetic base surface grinder and took about .050 off most of the pad surface(75%) parallel with the mounting face and....it worked. I installed the pads with the ground face on the leading edge. They work fine!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...l-problem.html
I'm not one to toss pads when there is friction material left(especially some ST-47's, but then again that's why I'm the one changing pads between sessions) so here is what I tried to "fix" them.
I had them put on a magnetic base surface grinder and took about .050 off most of the pad surface(75%) parallel with the mounting face and....it worked. I installed the pads with the ground face on the leading edge. They work fine!
#4
Tech Contributor
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Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
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Just take the pads from the left and put them on the right and vice versa. The inboard pad will become the outboard pad on each pair after the swap. Evens the taper and you don't have to grind off valuable pad material.
Bill
#6
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I do that every time as well and I highly recommend the practice but you can't do that if the taper is excessive. Certain tracks(Laguna Seca) due to their heavy, repeated braking cause extreme longitudinal pad taper(in my case, .050-.100") after only 3-4 sessions. I can flip the pads in this condition but what I have found out is that I get a "long, soft" pedal that's worthless on the track. By surface grinding these tapered pads, I am able to salvage what would otherwise be scrap.
Last edited by Sidney004; 07-27-2012 at 01:15 PM.
#7
Tech Contributor
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Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
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I do that every time as well and I highly recommend the practice but you can't do that if the taper is excessive. Certain tracks(Laguna Seca) due to their heavy, repeated braking cause extreme longitudinal pad taper(in my case, .050-.100") after only 3-4 sessions. I can flip the pads in this condition but what I have found out is that I get a "long, soft" pedal that's worthless on the track. By surface grinding these tapered pads, I am able to salvage what would otherwise be scrap.
Bill
#9
Terminal Vette Addict
Using the stock C5 caliper? how long you been on those calipers?
Get a set of used good condition C6 stock ones, they hold up stronger, same pad and mounting sizes.
get the titanium shims and the steel shim set form my write up. As the pad material gets less shim them to stop the piston tilt and you will get less pad wedging.
Calipers only last about 1-2 seasons by abuse. I also like the SS pistons from DRM to help the heat and slow the spread.
Get a set of used good condition C6 stock ones, they hold up stronger, same pad and mounting sizes.
get the titanium shims and the steel shim set form my write up. As the pad material gets less shim them to stop the piston tilt and you will get less pad wedging.
Calipers only last about 1-2 seasons by abuse. I also like the SS pistons from DRM to help the heat and slow the spread.
I experienced an erratic long, soft pedal with longitudinally tapered pads:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...l-problem.html
I'm not one to toss pads when there is friction material left(especially some ST-47's, but then again that's why I'm the one changing pads between sessions) so here is what I tried to "fix" them.
I had them put on a magnetic base surface grinder and took about .050 off most of the pad surface(75%) parallel with the mounting face and....it worked. I installed the pads with the ground face on the leading edge. They work fine!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...l-problem.html
I'm not one to toss pads when there is friction material left(especially some ST-47's, but then again that's why I'm the one changing pads between sessions) so here is what I tried to "fix" them.
I had them put on a magnetic base surface grinder and took about .050 off most of the pad surface(75%) parallel with the mounting face and....it worked. I installed the pads with the ground face on the leading edge. They work fine!