SunnydayDILYSI

Getting to the point where the HP+ just aren't enough for the track. Thinking HP70 for the track and ceramics for the street. Anyone else switch back and forth without swapping rotors? Any issues or tips (e.g., do I have to sand rotors after swap? Re-bed the pads?

Thanks,
Chris

jlutherva

I used have a set of pads and rotors for the track and a separate street set and would swap them out for track days. I would then take the street rotors along to the track as spares. Somewhere along the way, I got lazy and just quit driving the Z on the street......

Jim

Aardwolf

I switch sometimes to get all the use out of the parts. Some pads don't need to be re-bed but with separate manufacturers it's a good idea. Drive around on the new pad with some street miles, it will clean the rotor for you. Then do the re-bedding.

froggy47

Why not just put HP blue in the front for track days? No need to rebed between swaps.

starkynuke

I swap between Porterfield R4S and DTC-60 pads with ACDelco rotors. A couple days before a track event I put the 60's in and drive them around. Because they never really get hot they effectively clean rotor surface. I bed them at track or on the way. After event I leave the 60's in for a couple days to clean the rotor again. Once they are loud (squeaky) and all silver (blue gray transfer is gone), I put the R4s's back in for a quiet street ride.

argonaut

I do it all the time but it seems to depend a lot on which pads you use. Lately for track pads I've been using the Ferrodo DS1.11 compound or the CL RC8 and neither one of them seems to care that my wilwood street pads were on the car the day before. I have occasionally had judder issues but it was always when using Carbotech pads - they have a lot of redeaming qualities and are great pads but seem to be a little fussy about bedding.

UstaB-GS549

I have swapped out DTC-70, XP-10, XP12, OEM GM, Wilwood BP-10 (street) without problems.

The only time that I have had a problem is with DTC-70 pads on a brand new rotor that was not thoroughly cleaned. If a white rag with laquer thinner picks up any grinding bits, it means it is not clean enough. The metal bits will form a high spot on the rotor and I had massive judder. This happen to me twice before I figured it out.

Adam@Amp'dAutosport.com

If you switch to Carbotech you will have no problem. All are compounds are compatiable with each other so all you have to do is swap pads for street and track.

RedLS1GTO

The only time I have ever had an issue was with Carbotech pads. Still have no idea why but a brand new set of rotors and pads were destroyed in a day. Followed bedding instructions to the letter, etc.

Never had a single issue prior to or in the 2 years since then with the various Wilwood or Hawk pads, even when swapping.


Carbotech must be doing something right. A lot of folks here swear by them... they just don't seem to agree with my car for whatever reason.

Adam@Amp'dAutosport.com

Try a set of are pads pre bed.

SunnydayDILYSI

I've read that you can switch between the street friendly Carbo Bobcats and the XP10s without having to rebed. Has anyone tried this out? From the posts it sounds like you do need to rebed if you swap between Hawk Ceramic and HP60/70. Any experience here?

I'm also open to other brands. Please post if you have a good combo. As I'm sure you've experienced, swapping pads is easy, but rotors takes some real work.

fred_S

I switch between XP10/XP8 and Bobcat1521 with no problems

larryfs

Carbotech pads are inconsistant, or at least they were years ago.

Sometimes, you get pad transfer, and it creates a nasty vibe. othertimes, no problems at all.