69427

Just looking for input, and this seemed like the best section to ask. I put a C4 suspension under my street rod truck ('51 Chevy) and the stock location of the m/c (under the floorboard) isn't conducive to packaging a booster. I'll probably initially try running it in manual brake configuration (with the stock C4 m/c, and change it if it's unacceptable), but I thought I'd just see if anyone has tried running the C4 system without a booster.

Thanks,
Mike

Solofast

There were at one time a few cars that used a boosted master cylinder that was driven from a slave cylinder that wasn't attached to the booster. I recall that Lotus used that arrrangement on the old Europa, and some early BWM 1600's used it in the 60's. I'm sure you don't want to go and buy one of those old systems, but there might be something like that around today that would work for what you want to do. Speedway has a remote electric master cylinder, but they must like it a lot since it costs almost $1200 :0

Shaka

I built a scratch roadster in 96 and power to weight was a primary design objective out of 8 design objectives. 1850 lbs with an LT4 and 6 speed. 11 sec road course car.
I used C4 rotors and calipers. It took months to get the line pressures right with the pedal travel I wanted for heal and toe. I tried 4 sets of different master bore sizes, hydraulic and mechanical bias mechanisms. I got it right in the name of a couple of lbs. Would never do it again. The C4 caliper size is about the limit for manual pedal pressure.
Rebuilding the car with an LS2 and C5 brakes, I used a Toyota Tacoma master and boost. Perfect first time with no headache and with the same feel as a non boosted set up. The whole unit took up less room than my two Tilton masters. Got pics if you want to see? Don't do it.

LanceGardiner

Mike,

This might help: http://members.shaw.ca/corvette.84/C5brakes.html#mc

It has a calculator to play with the pedal ratios, master cylinder bore, etc., etc. A single 7/8" (0.875") bore master cylinder works well - though I have switched to dual 3/4" Tilton master cylinders with a balance bar.

Lance.

Shaka

Easier said than done. I used this equipment and to get the right pedal feel, effort verses travel verses line pressure front and back is a balancing act that is not the ideal way to go in certain applications.
Build your own pedal box which allows pedal spacing and fulcrum adjustment to suit your own needs of your own feet and driving techniques. The relationship of brake pedal to gas pedal is critical. There is an easire way. Gas pedal, be it cable or fly by wire, is the starting point especially with proggresive ratios.
A race car is critical, but an auto Hot Rod has some lee way.