Bills Z06

I was bleeding my brakes last night to prepare for an upcoming track day and I ran into a problem. I couldn't loosen one of the brake bleed screws. I kept trying and eventually I rounded the shoulders even though I used a box end wrench. Now it's a big problem. Does anyone have an idea on how to get this thing out? Vice grips didn't work either.

VatorMan

Well, you got me when you said the vise grips didn't work. Sounds like it was cross threaded. Next I'd take the caliper off and clamp it-drill the bleed screw out and run a tap into the caliper. Flush with brake fluid and put a new screw in.

CeeFiveZee

Did the bleeder screw break off? If not, I'd apply heat and try again with a vise grips. The last thing you want to do is drill it out. The tapered seat will most likely be damaged by the drilling. If the bleeder is broken clean off or simply will not come out with heat, find a machine shop and have it EDM'd out. EDM will not damage the treads or taper seat.

Speed Direct

In situations like that I use vice grips but you have to clamp them as tight as you possibly can and watch carefully as you apply torque on the bleeder. If it starts to round (and I mean hardly move more than .020") then I stop and tighten the grips even more. I use flat tipped grips and clamp to the flats of the screw. Don't use the serrated jaws because they don't have enough contact area. I agree that adding a little heat may help as well.

redtopz

PB Penetrating Catalyst works miracles.

RX-Ben

I had this happen - I clamped the rounded off bleeder in a vice, came off pretty easily.

brkntrxn

Thanks for the reminder. I have one stuck on a rear caliper.

Where is the best place to order new bleeders? Just get the OEM ones from Chevy? I am not looking for fancy speedbleeders.

froggy47

What those guys said & it you break it off an ez out (small) may enable you to get the rest of it since it already has a hole. Carefully inspect threads, it could be crossed or rusted. If the threads are buggered I think it's new caliper time. There is a "seat" that needs to be correct to seal, it's not just a threaded hole.

RX-Ben

Yes, the GM ones are slightly different than parts store ones. I had parts store ones and they weeped. It didn't make me feel all that great as the seal must have been compromised.

fatbillybob

bleeder is toast anyway. tap bleeder like the most you could stand being hit with a hammer on your thumb driving the bleeder toward the caliper. Now try to take off with vise grips. Still no go use heat. Still tough use 50% acetone and ATF or liquid wrench or wd40. heat bleeder cool it off with any of the above. heat bleeder more burn off penetrant. watch for flames. Now try with vise grips worked 100% of the time but try not to blow yourself up

brkntrxn

Thanks, Ben.

crimlwC6

I had the same issue. Vice grips didn't work and then I tried to dremel a slot and back it out with a screwdriver; that failed. So I went and bought a drill out setup with fear in my heart but also picked up a better quality set of vicegrips. The higher quality vicegrips got it off.

ScaryFast

If you can't get it out with vise grips, drill it out and use these:

http://www.summitracing.com/search/b...s?autoview=SKU

There are multiple configurations depending on whether you want to keep the taper or not.

Done it plenty of times, most recently on a set of stoptechs. Obviously care is of the essence...

Bills Z06

Thanks for the advice guys. I'm gonna try the heat trick first. Can't believe I didn't think of that. Duhh....

SouthernSon

Get a used caliper from one of the many suppliers. They are cheap, plentiful and you can find one that has not been 'overtightened' and damaged. Only tighten bleed screw a few foot pounds, not much at all.