taken19

I did a bit of searching last night and couldn't find a real good answer. I read that the R80 and R100 will last longer and for more heat cycles, but I'd like to know how they feel...

Any warning before they let go? The R6 started to feel like you're driving over gravel before it lets go.

What slip angle do they like best?

I hear they need a bit more heat before really working, say 2 laps before pushing? R6 can almost go out of the blocks and perform well.

When they do let let go, is it progressive (can it be saved on slower corners by unloading steering wheel a bit and trying again) or is it all over before you get the chance to correct?


For any of you who have driven on both the R6 (or even A6) and the R80 (or R100), can you share your experiences and thoughts? I've been running on R6's for just abut 8-9 months and I'm considering moving to R80 or R100 scrubs.

taken19

Anybody run both sets of tires? Please provide opinions.

crimlwC6

The R100s from my brief experience do need 2 laps to get up to stick. They were great tires and the grip went out like a light switch after a heat cycle, which is good news. Gripped fine at the last session of the day, the next morning they were like ice. 2 cents.

taken19

What do you mean grip went like a light switch? Please provide more detail. Are you saying that are garbage after one heat cycle because I was considering scrubs...

RX7 KLR

I have run both compounds, on a lighter, lower powered car. The difference between the two on our car was simply the amount of time needed to come in, the R80 was good to go at the drop of the green, while it took 3-4 laps for the R100 to equal its grip.

I could run the same lap time on both tires, once up to temp. My car is not heavy enough to run either tire off, so I cant tell you when the R80 goes off versus the R100.

The biggest thing we have found with the Hoosier radial slick is they need an easy heat cycle on them if you want them to last. With other slicks we have ran stickers in a race, later used them for qual or practice with no issues. If you run the radial hard out of the box they will not have a long useful life, they seem to fall off and never fully come back. If you give them proper heat cycle you can run them to the cord and they will be fast.

taken19

Thank you.

Anybody else?

redtopz

I assume the scrubs are pretty cheap. Go ahead and try them out. I ran a set of R80/R100 scrubs several years ago and I thought they were ideal for hpde. The grip lasted all session long and the tires lasted a very long time.

986_C6

waddisme

I got 12 R80 scrubs about a year and 1/2 ago. I got over 40 sessions of hpde on the first set. These are like 2:12 laps at VIR, 1:40 laps at Rd Atl and 2:14 laps at Daytona. 1 lap is about all they need to get warm and they are good to go. I rotated them front to back and then run them only on the back as they wore down. Just for hpde they were still pretty quick all the way down to the cord. When I am done with the other 6, I will probably repl with new R100s for longevity. I got all 12 scrubs for $500 and still have 6 to left. BTW, I have had to repl both front bearings and ctrl arm bushings.

taken19

Just got a set of 4, about $420 shipped. My next track day is 2/9, then 2/23-2/24 so I'll report back. I'm excited that they last 2x as long as R6's. 40 sessions will get me almost until the end of the year.

taken19

Do you know what camber they like? I was running about -2.5 front and -1.5 rear with my R6's.

taken19

Can anybody help with R80/R100 camber settings? Mine should be in this week and I need to start setting up for the next event.

Thanks,
Sean

AtomicZ

Seriously? 40 sessions on one set of scrubs. Running 2:12 at VIR.

Almost to amazing......

waddisme

Here is a typical VIR lap with them. As you can see, not real aggressive.



Same for RD ATL although I did save some rubber at the end by driving in the grass:

ScaryFast

This is also my strategy...

I run A6's in general, but I bought a set of wheels which had scrub R80's on them. My lap times were about the same as an A6. I can not comment on how many heat cycles the R80's had on them before I used them, so this data point is not especially useful.

I've never run them in a competition event because they are a major hit to classing.

RX7 KLR

We run around -3.5 in the front, on both a RWD and FWD car. In the rear -2.5 to -3 with RWD.

taken19

Thanks. Seems that the R80 or R100 likes a lot of camber like the R6 and A6. I'll be dialing in more camber this weekend I guess...

taken19

Got the tires yesterday, excited to get them mounted next week. The 265's are just about as wide as the 295's... Kinda surprising. Might have a tough time fitting them over 9" rims.

Any other suggestions on camber? Sounds like -3 front and -2 rear might be a good starting point.

taken19

A quick update...

Ran the R100's yesterday with -2.8 front and -1.8 rear camber. Also changed from stock Z51 brakes (XP-20/10 combo) to Stoptech ST-60/40 with XP-12/10's. ran a best of 2.9 seconds faster at Homestead. I know some was the brakes, but the R100's got me almost 1.4 G's where the R6's were closer to 1.2 using Harry's lap timer which is not perfectly accurate (but good enough for me). They are a bit difficult to read because there is no significant clue they give before letting go (very slight whistle and then they are done). Took about 2 laps to get heat in them but they felt very good and made me much more confident in the fast corners.

I think I'm going to try another 0.5 degrees of negative camber for the next event to see if it helps at all. All in all, a great tire if they really last as long as some of you elude to.

taken19

Real quick, I spoke to Hoosier tech support today...

Recommended camber for R100 is -2.5 to -3.0

Recommended hot tire pressure is 30-32#, max 34#

Recommended cold pressure 22-24#, no less than 22#

Not enough feedback yet to find their telltale signal "at the limit"

Thought this may help some of you. I'm happy with them, especially when I was running them at 38# hot and still dropped 3 seconds off my lap times!!!