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Brake Caliper temperature stickers...where to buy them?

Old 03-14-2013, 03:33 PM
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Bedouin
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Default Brake Caliper temperature stickers...where to buy them?

Looking for those small adhesive stick-on temperature stickers that show caliper temps..who makes good ones, can they be used multiple times or just once, & where do I buy em? Thanks!
Old 03-14-2013, 05:47 PM
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froggy47
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Old 03-14-2013, 06:01 PM
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Old 03-14-2013, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Bedouin
These APRacing ones look like they'll do the trick;

http://www.essexparts.com/brake-caliper-strips.html
The brake caliper temperature indicator strip is applied directly to the brake caliper to indicate the maximum temperature the caliper has achieved during use, It is essential that the caliper temperature is kept well within the working range of the brake fluid to prevent fluid vaporisation which will result in the loss of brake pedal. Calipers that regularly run at up to 392°F - Re-seal every other event. Calipers that run intermittenly from 392°F to 428°F - Re-seal as soon as possible. Each packet contains 10 strips with each strip having 9 temperature levels ranging from 300°F to 500°F.


What does all this mean? If your caliper reaches 392 f reseal what every other event?

Rebuild the caliper?

?????
Old 03-14-2013, 09:12 PM
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Pegasus Auto Racing sells them as well...

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...oduct=THERMAX6


Hope this helps.
Old 03-15-2013, 04:43 PM
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The guys at Performance Friction suggested that I also put the strip on the hub. Then use the paint on the rotor vanes as well as the top of the brake pads. They operate on the principle that you can never have too much information.

btw - I have an article in the most recent Vintage Motorsport magazine on things you need to know before you select a pad compound. You should be able to find the magazine in your local Barnes and Noble.

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Old 03-15-2013, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by froggy47


What does all this mean? If your caliper reaches 392 f reseal what every other event?

Rebuild the caliper?

?????
That means you should replace the seals.
If your calipers are running this hot consistently then you need to do some cooling for the caliper itself. Aluminum loses a fair amount of rigidity at 400 degrees F.
Old 05-25-2016, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by geerookie
That means you should replace the seals.
If your calipers are running this hot consistently then you need to do some cooling for the caliper itself. Aluminum loses a fair amount of rigidity at 400 degrees F.
Is ducting air to the caliper and blowing it across adequate? I have having severe brake heat issues and can not figure out why.
Old 05-25-2016, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ScaryFast
Is ducting air to the caliper and blowing it across adequate? I have having severe brake heat issues and can not figure out why.
Cuz you ride the brakes too much! Use the pedal on the far right more and you won't heat your brakes up as much - you might just go faster too!

I kid! I kid! Give me a jingle and we'll figure things out.

Last edited by 96CollectorSport; 05-26-2016 at 10:00 AM.
Old 05-25-2016, 11:37 PM
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http://www.mcmaster.com/#temperature...abels/=12km3w2
Old 05-26-2016, 10:05 AM
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do you have something dragging/not releasing? another set of calipers to test with? bearings maybe?
Old 05-26-2016, 10:34 AM
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Bill32
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Originally Posted by Bedouin
Looking for those small adhesive stick-on temperature stickers that show caliper temps..who makes good ones, can they be used multiple times or just once, & where do I buy em? Thanks!
Both the stickers and the Templiaq paint can only be used one time.

We use the paint on our car but it's pricy for the kit.
If you have a rough idea of the temp range, you can buy individual bottles of the paint.
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Old 05-26-2016, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 96CollectorSport
Cuz you ride the brakes too much! Use the pedal on the far right more and you won't heat your brakes up as much - you might just go faster too!

I kid! I kid! Give me a jingle and we'll figure things out.
Bad enough that they kept me out of RA last weekend.

The only thing I've changed is the front bumper since last year. And added the undertray. It occurs to me that this could impede airflow, but all i had the last two years was the standard LG/DRM kit with the factory C5Z outside corner bumper inlets which I can't imagine do much due to their location in the fascia.

I used huge brake ducts in front (just outside the radiator inlet) and routed into the existing DRM tube in the wheel well and am still warping pads in ONE session. Literally warping the backing plate. That used to take me a whole weekend.

I replaced one side with a NACA style duct and it wasn't better. I cant find anywhere to route a second hose to blow on the caliper, I spend every night laying under the car trying to route a hose through the control arm or sway bar with no worthwhile solution.

I also have added the little flares in front of the wheel which supposedly create a low pressure zone and pull air through the wheel.

Feel free to comment on my beautiful tape job. If you don't appreciate fine art you won't understand.




Last edited by ScaryFast; 05-26-2016 at 04:37 PM.
Old 05-26-2016, 07:08 PM
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froggy47
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Originally Posted by ScaryFast
Bad enough that they kept me out of RA last weekend.

The only thing I've changed is the front bumper since last year. And added the undertray. It occurs to me that this could impede airflow, but all i had the last two years was the standard LG/DRM kit with the factory C5Z outside corner bumper inlets which I can't imagine do much due to their location in the fascia.

I used huge brake ducts in front (just outside the radiator inlet) and routed into the existing DRM tube in the wheel well and am still warping pads in ONE session. Literally warping the backing plate. That used to take me a whole weekend.

I replaced one side with a NACA style duct and it wasn't better. I cant find anywhere to route a second hose to blow on the caliper, I spend every night laying under the car trying to route a hose through the control arm or sway bar with no worthwhile solution.

I also have added the little flares in front of the wheel which supposedly create a low pressure zone and pull air through the wheel.

Feel free to comment on my beautiful tape job. If you don't appreciate fine art you won't understand.



Damn, that's a beautiful tape up.

Old 05-27-2016, 11:52 AM
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96CollectorSport
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Originally Posted by ScaryFast
Bad enough that they kept me out of RA last weekend.

The only thing I've changed is the front bumper since last year. And added the undertray. It occurs to me that this could impede airflow, but all i had the last two years was the standard LG/DRM kit with the factory C5Z outside corner bumper inlets which I can't imagine do much due to their location in the fascia.

I used huge brake ducts in front (just outside the radiator inlet) and routed into the existing DRM tube in the wheel well and am still warping pads in ONE session. Literally warping the backing plate. That used to take me a whole weekend.

I replaced one side with a NACA style duct and it wasn't better. I cant find anywhere to route a second hose to blow on the caliper, I spend every night laying under the car trying to route a hose through the control arm or sway bar with no worthwhile solution.

I also have added the little flares in front of the wheel which supposedly create a low pressure zone and pull air through the wheel.

Feel free to comment on my beautiful tape job. If you don't appreciate fine art you won't understand.



Seriously Scary - give me a call and we can figure it out - if you went from no aero last year to full aero this year you're going to be braking much later and harder - it all adds up. At the very least I'll point you in the right direction.

Oh and I would've tried to find some blue duct tape - a little contrast goes a long way.

Last edited by 96CollectorSport; 05-27-2016 at 11:53 AM.

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