Brake Caliper temperature stickers...where to buy them?
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Brake Caliper temperature stickers...where to buy them?
Looking for those small adhesive stick-on temperature stickers that show caliper temps..who makes good ones, can they be used multiple times or just once, & where do I buy em? Thanks!
#4
Race Director
These APRacing ones look like they'll do the trick;
http://www.essexparts.com/brake-caliper-strips.html
http://www.essexparts.com/brake-caliper-strips.html
What does all this mean? If your caliper reaches 392 f reseal what every other event?
Rebuild the caliper?
?????
#5
Advanced
Pegasus Auto Racing sells them as well...
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...oduct=THERMAX6
Hope this helps.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...oduct=THERMAX6
Hope this helps.
#6
Safety Car
The guys at Performance Friction suggested that I also put the strip on the hub. Then use the paint on the rotor vanes as well as the top of the brake pads. They operate on the principle that you can never have too much information.
btw - I have an article in the most recent Vintage Motorsport magazine on things you need to know before you select a pad compound. You should be able to find the magazine in your local Barnes and Noble.
Richard Newton
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btw - I have an article in the most recent Vintage Motorsport magazine on things you need to know before you select a pad compound. You should be able to find the magazine in your local Barnes and Noble.
Richard Newton
#7
Drifting
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If your calipers are running this hot consistently then you need to do some cooling for the caliper itself. Aluminum loses a fair amount of rigidity at 400 degrees F.
#8
Safety Car
Is ducting air to the caliper and blowing it across adequate? I have having severe brake heat issues and can not figure out why.
#9
Melting Slicks
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I kid! I kid! Give me a jingle and we'll figure things out.
Last edited by 96CollectorSport; 05-26-2016 at 10:00 AM.
#12
Melting Slicks
We use the paint on our car but it's pricy for the kit.
If you have a rough idea of the temp range, you can buy individual bottles of the paint.
#13
Safety Car
The only thing I've changed is the front bumper since last year. And added the undertray. It occurs to me that this could impede airflow, but all i had the last two years was the standard LG/DRM kit with the factory C5Z outside corner bumper inlets which I can't imagine do much due to their location in the fascia.
I used huge brake ducts in front (just outside the radiator inlet) and routed into the existing DRM tube in the wheel well and am still warping pads in ONE session. Literally warping the backing plate. That used to take me a whole weekend.
I replaced one side with a NACA style duct and it wasn't better. I cant find anywhere to route a second hose to blow on the caliper, I spend every night laying under the car trying to route a hose through the control arm or sway bar with no worthwhile solution.
I also have added the little flares in front of the wheel which supposedly create a low pressure zone and pull air through the wheel.
Feel free to comment on my beautiful tape job. If you don't appreciate fine art you won't understand.
Last edited by ScaryFast; 05-26-2016 at 04:37 PM.
#14
Race Director
Bad enough that they kept me out of RA last weekend.
The only thing I've changed is the front bumper since last year. And added the undertray. It occurs to me that this could impede airflow, but all i had the last two years was the standard LG/DRM kit with the factory C5Z outside corner bumper inlets which I can't imagine do much due to their location in the fascia.
I used huge brake ducts in front (just outside the radiator inlet) and routed into the existing DRM tube in the wheel well and am still warping pads in ONE session. Literally warping the backing plate. That used to take me a whole weekend.
I replaced one side with a NACA style duct and it wasn't better. I cant find anywhere to route a second hose to blow on the caliper, I spend every night laying under the car trying to route a hose through the control arm or sway bar with no worthwhile solution.
I also have added the little flares in front of the wheel which supposedly create a low pressure zone and pull air through the wheel.
Feel free to comment on my beautiful tape job. If you don't appreciate fine art you won't understand.
The only thing I've changed is the front bumper since last year. And added the undertray. It occurs to me that this could impede airflow, but all i had the last two years was the standard LG/DRM kit with the factory C5Z outside corner bumper inlets which I can't imagine do much due to their location in the fascia.
I used huge brake ducts in front (just outside the radiator inlet) and routed into the existing DRM tube in the wheel well and am still warping pads in ONE session. Literally warping the backing plate. That used to take me a whole weekend.
I replaced one side with a NACA style duct and it wasn't better. I cant find anywhere to route a second hose to blow on the caliper, I spend every night laying under the car trying to route a hose through the control arm or sway bar with no worthwhile solution.
I also have added the little flares in front of the wheel which supposedly create a low pressure zone and pull air through the wheel.
Feel free to comment on my beautiful tape job. If you don't appreciate fine art you won't understand.
#15
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: If you don't weigh in you don't wrestle Road America
Posts: 3,031
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Bad enough that they kept me out of RA last weekend.
The only thing I've changed is the front bumper since last year. And added the undertray. It occurs to me that this could impede airflow, but all i had the last two years was the standard LG/DRM kit with the factory C5Z outside corner bumper inlets which I can't imagine do much due to their location in the fascia.
I used huge brake ducts in front (just outside the radiator inlet) and routed into the existing DRM tube in the wheel well and am still warping pads in ONE session. Literally warping the backing plate. That used to take me a whole weekend.
I replaced one side with a NACA style duct and it wasn't better. I cant find anywhere to route a second hose to blow on the caliper, I spend every night laying under the car trying to route a hose through the control arm or sway bar with no worthwhile solution.
I also have added the little flares in front of the wheel which supposedly create a low pressure zone and pull air through the wheel.
Feel free to comment on my beautiful tape job. If you don't appreciate fine art you won't understand.
The only thing I've changed is the front bumper since last year. And added the undertray. It occurs to me that this could impede airflow, but all i had the last two years was the standard LG/DRM kit with the factory C5Z outside corner bumper inlets which I can't imagine do much due to their location in the fascia.
I used huge brake ducts in front (just outside the radiator inlet) and routed into the existing DRM tube in the wheel well and am still warping pads in ONE session. Literally warping the backing plate. That used to take me a whole weekend.
I replaced one side with a NACA style duct and it wasn't better. I cant find anywhere to route a second hose to blow on the caliper, I spend every night laying under the car trying to route a hose through the control arm or sway bar with no worthwhile solution.
I also have added the little flares in front of the wheel which supposedly create a low pressure zone and pull air through the wheel.
Feel free to comment on my beautiful tape job. If you don't appreciate fine art you won't understand.
Oh and I would've tried to find some blue duct tape - a little contrast goes a long way.
Last edited by 96CollectorSport; 05-27-2016 at 11:53 AM.