MarkDFW

I've been talked in to a more aggressive alignment to get more life from slicks and R comps. Any suggestions on a camber kit?

The only one I know of is from Pfadt and curious if anyone has feedback on this or another kit. Any nuances to know when installing?

http://www.pfadtracing.com/catalog/p...products_id/52

fatbillybob

A camber kit will lock your settings. But prior to that expense you can test with stock plates. Locking is the only value of pfadt or hardbar kit.

MarkDFW

Ok so any feedback on which kit is superior? Pfadt vs. Hardbar?

Hi Volts Z06

The stock eccentrics have limits to how much camber they can dial in. This varies from car to car (and if you have had any tweaks to the frame as well) but I can tell you that I couldn't get more than 2 degrees of negative camber before the Pfadt kit and after installing it I had no problem getting 3 degrees. It also makes it easier to adjust due to the shims. You can set it up for an aggressive track alignment and then add a few shims to the upper A arm studs and go back to street setup very quickly.

sperkins

Hardbar locking camber kit for C5.
Includes one extra set of blocks that I used to get more rear camber on one side.

$180 shipped includes PP fee.

geerookie

Not much difference as far as functionality and how the install.

They don't enable you to get more camber. I suspect the reason some people get more camber when they install these kits is because they lower the car at the same time or they didn't adjust the factory eccentrics properly.

It's easy to make your own, just need some 1.25"x 3/16" aluminum or steel and a drill bit. Knock the eccentrics off the factory bolts and you are set.

heypal

PM sent

fatbillybob

Pfadt.

Bill Dearborn

I actually got less camber after camber plates. Total negative camber dropped from -3.2 to 2.8.

Bill

MarkDFW

Interesting contrast to what Hi Volts Z06 said in his post above. I guess if nothing else they add value by holding your alignment, and making alignment changes easier.

davidfarmer

You can got .2deg beyond the OEM settings with Camber plates, I just had a batch laser cut locally. Warning though, you cant really use the OEM bolts due to the way they cut the end off of the threaded side.

Anyway, if OEM is just enough, then so be it, but I've had a few cars come back with movement after autocross are hardcore track days (with proper torque settings). Camber plates do indeed take care of that problem!

el es tu

pfadt come with more shims and plates, but the hardbar studs are longer (great for situations such as street where you need a significant amount of spacing on the upper control arms).

imo get the pfadt and then upgrade to hardbar studs if you need them.

db2xpert

Couldn't get more than -1.2 in frt with stock adjusters.
Happily at -2.1 with Pfadt camber plates

Grabbed_Crow_Mobe

I got exactly -.2 degrees more in the rear when installing the pfadt camber kit.

Not sure on the front as I also installed the poly bushings
at the same time which have an offset upper a arm bolt that increases neg camber.

MarkDFW

Do you feel the poly bushings were worth the cost/time? I know the spherical are supposed to be great but are only appropriate for a track only car, and mine is driven heavily on the street.

I have been considering this control arm bushing kit from Pfadt at the same time I do the camber kit:

http://www.pfadtracing.com/catalog/p...products_id/51

6SPEEDZ

Another vote for Pfadt. I have had the hardbar stuff where it was too big to drop in the cradle. plus it's heavier than the pfadt stuff because the pills are thicker.

Vettechris996

I run the Pfadt kit and a few notes regarding it. On your first alignment if you take it somewhere, it will take them longer to get it dialed in, but the big benefit is it STAYS there! No mater what you do you never have to worry. Another side note, by locking the lower front eccentrics at their max outboard position you slightly increase the track width of the front of the car. Not a bit deal until you need every bit of room you can get to squeeze big sticky tires in there. I run 295/30/18s up front and they just make it with -2.25 degrees of negative camber on stock Z06 rear wheels. I am very happy I did it, I had the stock eccentrics slip at an autoX on R888s a few weeks after having the car aligned and corner weighted and that was the last I wanted to see of that problem. I also have Pfadt polys in the car, I think it was well worth the time to install them. Car feels really awesome on and off the track.

taken19

Another thing regarding the Pfadt... making camber changes is simple because it occurs on the upper A-arms. Loosen (instead of remove) upper bolts, slide more or less number of shims in, then torque down.

Also, instead of fighting the eccentrics while torquing (they have a habit of not sitting still), the camber kit has very discrete positions that allow 0.2 degrees for every plate up or down moved. That makes your swaps pretty consistent.

sperkins

sold.

davidfarmer

the trouble with making changes at the upper arms is that you jack the car, adjust, then lower.......then drive the car about 5 miles to re-settle the stupid leaf springs.

If you adjust at the lowers on a 4-post lift, albiet a pain, you never jack the car and can make immediate measurements.