Fulton 1

I just picked up a 2002 C5Z with 23k miles on it. The car is in great condition and bone stock. It will not be a daily driver, but it will be street driven and between the wife and I it will probably see 3-4 track days per year. It will also be driven to our local track, which is about 150-mile round trip. Needless to say, reliability is my prime concern.

This is my first LS6 and I'm a beginner as far as track days are concerned. I will be on street tires and (mostly) stock suspension - no coilovers, R-compounds, or dry sumps - at this time. The goal is simply to learn and have fun.

I'm planning to do some "peace-of-mind" type upgrades to the engine itself to try and address known weak points and hopefully add a degree of reliability for the track days. To this end I've purchased a C5R timing chain and damper, ported oil pump, and belt tensioner from Katech and I've got a set of new GM valve springs and seals sitting here ready to go in. While the rockers are out I will also be doing the Comp rocker arm trunion upgrade.

My question is with regard to pushrods. While I have the rockers/springs out should I replace the stock pushrods as well? In the past with LS1s (I could be wrong, but I'm under the impression that LS1 and LS6 pushrods are the same p/n) we usually swapped out the stock pushrods for stronger aftermarket pushrods, but it was almost always in conjunction with adding a bigger cam and stiffer valve springs. Since I have no plan of doing any of that are the stock pushrods sufficient or is it worth spending a hundred bucks on set of chromemoly pushrods for peace of mind while I'm in there?

I don't want to "fix what ain't broke" if that makes sense...

Thanks.

sperkins

Stock pushrods act somewhat like a fuse in the valvtrain. I bent many many pushrods in my old LS1 (mechanical over-revs) and never suffered any further damage. Had they been aftermarket, I'm sure I would have much more considerable and expensive damage.

CHJ In Virginia

The stock LS-6 is one of the most bullett proof motors that GM has ever built. It ain't broke so don't fix it. The only things you need to do are 1) freshen the valve springs every other year 2) regular oil changes every second or third event 3) and get a good aftermarket oil cooler to keep the temps down. I have over 20K track miles on my LS-6 and it has never been opened up other than to change the valve springs. - That's my experienced opinion and opinions are like belly buttons every one has one.

Fulton 1

This was what I was hoping to hear. The inclination is often to go in and preemptively "fix" things only to find you've done more harm than good and that is what I am trying to avoid. Thanks for your feedback.

froggy47

93Rubie

Do yourself a favor, when you have the pushrods out. Roll them on a piece of glass to check and make sure they are still straight.

ZedO6

Valve springs. There is a known issue with LS6 valve springs on exactly your year. Do that first. There are many threads on here about perfect running C5Z's that lunched motors from failed valve springs. It can happen at idle!

While you're in there, do the valve seals and cover gaskets too. After that...the oil cooler is next and then you have one of the best stock Corvette track engines ever!

stevensa

Any thoughts on running restricted pushrods to keep from overfilling the valve covers with oil during sustained high rpm driving?

CHJ In Virginia

The LS6 does not have any drain back or blow by problems. I maintain oil pressure during sustained running. My catch can never has more than an ounce or two collected during a 2 day event. Don't think the restricted pushrods are necessary. Again - if it's not broken, don't fix it.

trackboss

I have restricted pushrods, as well as other oiling upgrades and still have low oil pressure problems. LS1 bottom end with LS6 heads. I'd say for what you are doing don't waste your time unless you plan on replacing the cam.

stevensa

I probably should have been a bit more clear in my original post. I meant to address the oil return and overfilling of the passenger side valve covers during sustained high G left hand turns which results in reduced or lost oil pressure. I know some run restricted pushrods to help keep the flow up to the valve cover down, and it is also common to drill the lifter guides to help the oil return to the pan more efficiently.

trackboss

I dumped the lifter cups altogether and installed link bar lifters to further improve draining. If going through the trouble of taking the cups out there I believe it is worthwhile to upgrade the lifters to that type and eliminate one weak link.