C6 Sway Bar End Links
#1
C6 Sway Bar End Links
-Power Grid is basically a steel ball joint within aluminum body very similar to oem except it is adjustable.
-Rod End type are noisy.
-Quiet end link w/teflon lining will not last.
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Anyone have experience with MOOG Part # K750136?
-Rod End type are noisy.
-Quiet end link w/teflon lining will not last.
---
Anyone have experience with MOOG Part # K750136?
#3
#5
I do like rod ends but it is noisy and I do like Moog's steel on steel with greasable zerks construction. Certainly, cost @ 18 each is another plus.
Just curious if racers in this section have put it to the test, maybe not on their race ca?
#7
And for $18, it will come with an "Lifetime Warranty".
#9
Race Director
They will have a rough finish, you know, not polished like some "performance" links. But the finish has zero to do with how they last.
Sorry they didn't work for you, but since I do recommend them from time to time can you describe what about the quality was not good?
Did you install them?
The oem parts are similar finish, at least on c5's.
#10
Were the ball/sockets loose?
They will have a rough finish, you know, not polished like some "performance" links. But the finish has zero to do with how they last.
Sorry they didn't work for you, but since I do recommend them from time to time can you describe what about the quality was not good?
Did you install them?
The oem parts are similar finish, at least on c5's.
They will have a rough finish, you know, not polished like some "performance" links. But the finish has zero to do with how they last.
Sorry they didn't work for you, but since I do recommend them from time to time can you describe what about the quality was not good?
Did you install them?
The oem parts are similar finish, at least on c5's.
Fit of the ball joint was not an issue and they were fine.
The finish didn't bother me, I had anticipated to refinish them with POR15 for rust prevention anyway.
However:
-Two set look completely different, had no grease zerk provision on smaller socket body, without grease zerks and the joint had the sealed boot covers. Dimensions wise, center to center were similar as the below one.
-Two sets were accurate as per Moog stock # w/grease zerks. But the boots on these have loose fit, will definitely not able to retain lube and to provide any sort of a seal.
The main issue was with the inability to provide sealing function.
----
Followed your previous threads on Endlinks, I haven't seen anymore follow ups - I suppose no news is good news?
#11
Race Director
I did not install them since they never pass the visual check and being not all identical, they are two pairs of the same kind.
Fit of the ball joint was not an issue and they were fine.
The finish didn't bother me, I had anticipated to refinish them with POR15 for rust prevention anyway.
However:
-Two set look completely different, had no grease zerk provision on smaller socket body, without grease zerks and the joint had the sealed boot covers. Dimensions wise, center to center were similar as the below one.
-Two sets were accurate as per Moog stock # w/grease zerks. But the boots on these have loose fit, will definitely not able to retain lube and to provide any sort of a seal.
The main issue was with the inability to provide sealing function.
----
Followed your previous threads on Endlinks, I haven't seen anymore follow ups - I suppose no news is good news?
Fit of the ball joint was not an issue and they were fine.
The finish didn't bother me, I had anticipated to refinish them with POR15 for rust prevention anyway.
However:
-Two set look completely different, had no grease zerk provision on smaller socket body, without grease zerks and the joint had the sealed boot covers. Dimensions wise, center to center were similar as the below one.
-Two sets were accurate as per Moog stock # w/grease zerks. But the boots on these have loose fit, will definitely not able to retain lube and to provide any sort of a seal.
The main issue was with the inability to provide sealing function.
----
Followed your previous threads on Endlinks, I haven't seen anymore follow ups - I suppose no news is good news?
If I were to venture an opinion, and I have lot's of those, IMO a lot of the rod ends with grease fittings are to "make them last longer" because they are not built to the high tolerances and materials of a good Aurora or QA1 three piece rod end.
Having said that, certainly there are applications where being able to grease a fitting is a good thing. Off road trucks, for example, where the environment is wet and dirty.
#12
If you mean the QA1's yes they are great. No provision for greasing on them either.
If I were to venture an opinion, and I have lot's of those, IMO a lot of the rod ends with grease fittings are to "make them last longer" because they are not built to the high tolerances and materials of a good Aurora or QA1 three piece rod end.
Having said that, certainly there are applications where being able to grease a fitting is a good thing. Off road trucks, for example, where the environment is wet and dirty.
If I were to venture an opinion, and I have lot's of those, IMO a lot of the rod ends with grease fittings are to "make them last longer" because they are not built to the high tolerances and materials of a good Aurora or QA1 three piece rod end.
Having said that, certainly there are applications where being able to grease a fitting is a good thing. Off road trucks, for example, where the environment is wet and dirty.
Having said that.
The environment where the endlinks live can be both wet and dirty.
Even lubs in the high end rod ends can not possibly last indefinitely, right?
Thats my delima.
So, since your install with QA1s, what is the environment your vette operates under most of the time?
#13
Race Director
I value and appreciate your opinions, since most of us know something the others don't.
Having said that.
The environment where the endlinks live can be both wet and dirty.
Even lubs in the high end rod ends can not possibly last indefinitely, right?
Thats my delima.
So, since your install with QA1s, what is the environment your vette operates under most of the time?
Having said that.
The environment where the endlinks live can be both wet and dirty.
Even lubs in the high end rod ends can not possibly last indefinitely, right?
Thats my delima.
So, since your install with QA1s, what is the environment your vette operates under most of the time?
They are very close to the ones installed on the Baja 500 Trophy Trucks, etc.
No maintenance, high quality steel, very tight tolerance's. Of course they'll wear out some day.
I went thru a lot of rod ends to get to these. Some were loose brand new. That's just crap but you might be surprised at the vendor name who sells them.
Others got loose after 1 or 2 events. That's just cheap soft steel.
I do my own alignment's so I can feel a bad rod end by hand, no need to hear it or use the seat of my pants test.
I'm not shilling for any company, just trying to save forum members from wasting their time/money.
BTW I run a6 tires so the stresses are there.
If I knew a high quality tie rod end/sway bar link that was greasable I'd mention it.
Maybe another forum member has some to recommend.
If greasing all these fittings is going to be part of your prep then an absolute 100% seal is not "that" critical, is it?
Look at any ball joint that still has a zerk fitting & watch the grease ooze (sp) out when you put a grease gun on it.
Last edited by froggy47; 06-12-2013 at 12:26 AM.
#14
So Cal, dry/warm/hot. But the rod ends I have are teflon lined, zero grease, no boot.
They are very close to the ones installed on the Baja 500 Trophy Trucks, etc.
No maintenance, high quality steel, very tight tolerance's. Of course they'll wear out some day.
I went thru a lot of rod ends to get to these. Some were loose brand new. That's just crap but you might be surprised at the vendor name who sells them.
Others got loose after 1 or 2 events. That's just cheap soft steel.
I do my own alignment's so I can feel a bad rod end by hand, no need to hear it or use the seat of my pants test.
I'm not shilling for any company, just trying to save forum members from wasting their time/money.
BTW I run a6 tires so the stresses are there.
If I knew a high quality tie rod end/sway bar link that was greasable I'd mention it.
Maybe another forum member has some to recommend.
If greasing all these fittings is going to be part of your prep then an absolute 100% seal is not "that" critical, is it.
Look at any ball joint that still has a zerk fitting & watch the grease ooze (sp) out when you put a grease gun on it.
They are very close to the ones installed on the Baja 500 Trophy Trucks, etc.
No maintenance, high quality steel, very tight tolerance's. Of course they'll wear out some day.
I went thru a lot of rod ends to get to these. Some were loose brand new. That's just crap but you might be surprised at the vendor name who sells them.
Others got loose after 1 or 2 events. That's just cheap soft steel.
I do my own alignment's so I can feel a bad rod end by hand, no need to hear it or use the seat of my pants test.
I'm not shilling for any company, just trying to save forum members from wasting their time/money.
BTW I run a6 tires so the stresses are there.
If I knew a high quality tie rod end/sway bar link that was greasable I'd mention it.
Maybe another forum member has some to recommend.
If greasing all these fittings is going to be part of your prep then an absolute 100% seal is not "that" critical, is it.
Look at any ball joint that still has a zerk fitting & watch the grease ooze (sp) out when you put a grease gun on it.
Or QA1s, care to share the QA1 #s
TIA.
#15
Race Director
These
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...erm=qa1+endura
Mid west did not hold up.
You need to "do the math" left hand thread/right hand thread lenght etc. for your application.
You can call qa1 for some limited tech support, but they expect that you know what you want. These are for racers so it's not like buying from a Corvette Vendor who figures that out for you.
Aurora = same.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...erm=qa1+endura
Mid west did not hold up.
You need to "do the math" left hand thread/right hand thread lenght etc. for your application.
You can call qa1 for some limited tech support, but they expect that you know what you want. These are for racers so it's not like buying from a Corvette Vendor who figures that out for you.
Aurora = same.
Last edited by froggy47; 06-12-2013 at 11:23 AM.
#16
These
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...erm=qa1+endura
Mid west did not hold up.
You need to "do the math" left hand thread/right hand thread lenght etc. for your application.
You can call qa1 for some limited tech support, but they expect that you know what you want. These are for racers so it's not like buying from a Corvette Vendor who figures that out for you.
Aurora = same.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...erm=qa1+endura
Mid west did not hold up.
You need to "do the math" left hand thread/right hand thread lenght etc. for your application.
You can call qa1 for some limited tech support, but they expect that you know what you want. These are for racers so it's not like buying from a Corvette Vendor who figures that out for you.
Aurora = same.
If you don't mind, since your '10 installation, how long did the Midwest lasted before failed?
How long since you switched to QA1? Isn't that what member Solofast used back in '10?
#17
Race Director
Over 2 years, I cannot feel any looseness in the qa's so far. I don't recall what Solofast did, sorry. PM him.
There are a LOT of crap 2 piece rod ends sold by a lot of companies for about $10. an end. Good luck with them if you anyone puts them on. Most guys don't know the difference, but it's there & it's real.
You get what you pay for in rod ends.
#18
A few months.
Over 2 years, I cannot feel any looseness in the qa's so far. I don't recall what Solofast did, sorry. PM him.
There are a LOT of crap 2 piece rod ends sold by a lot of companies for about $10. an end. Good luck with them if you anyone puts them on. Most guys don't know the difference, but it's there & it's real.
You get what you pay for in rod ends.
Over 2 years, I cannot feel any looseness in the qa's so far. I don't recall what Solofast did, sorry. PM him.
There are a LOT of crap 2 piece rod ends sold by a lot of companies for about $10. an end. Good luck with them if you anyone puts them on. Most guys don't know the difference, but it's there & it's real.
You get what you pay for in rod ends.
The old saying of u get what u paid for is true for most things. Including the ABA hose clamp you once did the comparison - which I also appreciate and what I use now.
#19
Just to shed some light on MOOG Part # K750136 on a C5, 2 months, driven on not well made roads, no problems at all, the parts looked good out of the box, greazing and sealing was not a big issue, you can always find a solution for sealing ... I recommend them for the price.
#20
Race Director
Just to shed some light on MOOG Part # K750136 on a C5, 2 months, driven on not well made roads, no problems at all, the parts looked good out of the box, greazing and sealing was not a big issue, you can always find a solution for sealing ... I recommend them for the price.