CTZoom

Hi Guys, I am in need of help. I have no wiring diagram and am at a loss as to which wire I need which will cut ignition. The safety switch is a standard FIA battery cutout with the dual sets of blade terminals to cut the charging circuit and the ignition circuit.

Is there a wire on the start switch I can use or is there a master ignition switch wire in the engine bay I can intercept?

My car is a stock(kinda) 2006 Z06 with a stock harness.

Once I solve this, I will have my race car only a few weeks away from it's first track test. 12 months in the build.

Can anyone help?

moespeeds

I can't help you yet, but I'm in exactly the same boat with my C5. Could you cut the battery, AND the alternator charging line?

crease-guard

There's a certain way to do it for the C5 and C6 so that you don't get back spiking voltage and current and fry one of the control modules. I ended up taking my track car to my shop and letting them do it at the same time I had the battery relocated to the back. I'm normally pretty good with wiring but this looked like a Major PITA to do so I paid someone to do it since they have done it before and knew what it entailed.

Jay

RX-Ben

For a regular 2 post kill switch.

CTZoom

Thanks RX-Ben for the diagram. My switch is not a standard 2 post switch, it is an FIA 2 post and 4 terminal switch.

http://www.turbosport.co.uk/attachme...452331&thumb=1

I have the main battery line split onto the main terminals. I have the alternator feed switched to the ballast resistor on the first switch. But I need to switch the ignition through the second switch circuit.

Looking at your diagram, are you recommending a cut to the maxi fuse to kill the ignition and coils?

RX-Ben

You will need to route the feed for the underhood fuse box ("B+" on the fuse box) to the kill switch. The underhood fuse box powers the coils, fuel pump, PCM, etc, basically everything that you want to kill. If you have aux cooling pumps/ground effects fans/electric superchargers etc, you will also want those connected to the same terminal as the fuse box feed.
That fuse box feed was previously connected to the battery, correct?
You will also want to check the rating on the switch for the secondary cutoff switch.

CTZoom

The battery lead that goes from the battery (+) to the main power terminal on the engine bay fuse box is exactly what I have split to the main terminals on the switch. That sounds the same as the B+ you are referring too. That alone won't kill the car as residual current from the alternator will keep it going unless I ground the coil power circuit as well... as I understand. I have wired these things into quite a few race cars that I have built, but the vette wiring has me slightly stumped.....

RX-Ben

There should be no path from the battery or the alternator to the underhood fuse box once the switch is in the open position, if that helps. Re-route wires accordingly.

CTZoom

Solved!! Thanks RX-Ben, your last post tweaked it for me. I disconnected the alternator cable from the fuse block and extended it to the battery side of the switch. That way, when the switch is closed, there is no power to the fuse and the engine stops dead! Thanks again.