Road Racing
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Road Racing
I have a stock 2013 GS that I've tracked several times. Last Saturday ran 4 times w/ 20 mins per run. Ambient temp was 78 degrees. I ran Hoosiers at 30 lbs when tires were cold. At the end of the day there was excessive wear on the driver's side front tire on the outside of the tire. This was a 2.2 mile flat road course. I new at this, but the lessons can be very $$$$. Is this camber, air pressure, both, neither???
#2
what are your alignment settings? sounds like you need more negative camber, i read hoosiers need a lot of neg camber.
reading the stickies at the top of this section has saved me thousands of dollars, i recommend you do the same!
reading the stickies at the top of this section has saved me thousands of dollars, i recommend you do the same!
#3
Drifting
I have a stock 2013 GS that I've tracked several times. Last Saturday ran 4 times w/ 20 mins per run. Ambient temp was 78 degrees. I ran Hoosiers at 30 lbs when tires were cold. At the end of the day there was excessive wear on the driver's side front tire on the outside of the tire. This was a 2.2 mile flat road course. I new at this, but the lessons can be very $$$$. Is this camber, air pressure, both, neither???
Were you running CCW?
Have your alignment set, Pfadt specs are generally good.
What were your hot pressures?
30# may be a tick high. I run 28# frt, and 24# rear,
hot pressures are +6#.
#4
Burning Brakes
The Hoosier site gives lots of info on proper setup for max tire life. Hoosier needs at least 2.5 neg camber to be effective. Do a track alignment next time and you'll get twice as much grip and much better tire wear!
#6
Safety Car
#7
Sr.Random input generator
FYI, I'm running Cup ZP tires (ZR1 sizes) with Pfadt's settings I mentioned above at -1.8 camber, and even though they were at the outer edge a bit faster, they seem to be wearing OK.
#8
Drifting
I have mine maxed out on my C5 Z but don't care about street tire wear because I don't drive it that much. I am however still on the oe bushings and don't want to go stiffer even though I run slicks because it is still a street car and I don't want it to ride terrible.
#9
Drifting
Hoosier R6's or A6's require more camber, even though they are rated as DOT tires - they are race tires.
Also, as per RX-Ben, you are getting extreme distortion with stock bushings and with the R6's grip level you may even be seeing zero or positive camber during certain track sections that you may be approaching 1.5g's plus.
You may be able to research a you tube video that Pfadt put out a couple of years ago that showed the distortion the stock front control arm bushings saw under track loading.
Also, as per RX-Ben, you are getting extreme distortion with stock bushings and with the R6's grip level you may even be seeing zero or positive camber during certain track sections that you may be approaching 1.5g's plus.
You may be able to research a you tube video that Pfadt put out a couple of years ago that showed the distortion the stock front control arm bushings saw under track loading.
#10
Safety Car
I wouldn't run Hoosiers without at least doing poly bushings to limit the camber loss from the oem rubber bushings. I would also have at least -2.5 degrees of camber as Zed06 stated.
#11
Burning Brakes
Nitto 555RII, Toyo 888's and various Kumho's and the Michelin Pilot Cup Sport are some other DOT competition tires that will work better with less camber.
With that said, ALL the other options will need at least -1.5 camber to equalize outer tread block wear IMHO.
#13
Safety Car
Start taking tire temps. Once you have a data base you can work with Hoosier on your alignment settings.
Richard Newton
Car Tech Stuff
Richard Newton
Car Tech Stuff