Annual maintenance suggestions for track C6
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Annual maintenance suggestions for track C6
I'm rounding the bend on the final straight to my first season with my new (to me) C6 Z51 and will have about 12-15 tracks days this year. I was trying to start looking into what sorts of things need to be done on the car at the end of the year. I have over a decade's worth of track driving so the track miles are pretty hard miles. Not quite race-car harsh but close.
Aside from changing all of the fluids, another nut and bolt, is anyone aware of any preventative schedule that is commonly adopted? I saw annual replacement of valve springs in one thread but was looking for some sort of a more comprehensive list.
My cursory search was unsuccessful, hence the post.
Thanks
Aside from changing all of the fluids, another nut and bolt, is anyone aware of any preventative schedule that is commonly adopted? I saw annual replacement of valve springs in one thread but was looking for some sort of a more comprehensive list.
My cursory search was unsuccessful, hence the post.
Thanks
#4
Drifting
OK, I'll start with one that becomes a problem -- pull your rotors off and check for hairline cracks forming around the hubs. Hubs have a habit of breaking at inopportune times on track and the only thing holding your wheel on is the caliper.
New SKFs are a solution.
--Dan
New SKFs are a solution.
--Dan
#5
Drifting
Change your wheel studs every year especially if you are changing wheels and retorquing alot.
Examine the upper front control arm bushings as they seem to like to relocate themselves.
Check your brake pads for taper top to bottom. If thicker at the bottom....time to replace the calipers as they are splayed at the bridge.
Put the car in the air and check all four wheels for play holding your hands at 12 and 6, then 9 and 3. 9 and 3 wobble usually means rod ends, 12 and 6 usually means hub.
Check your spring adjusting bolts to make sure the rubber (or delrin) pad on the end is still there (Surprise!!! I found a broken spring bolt my last inspection)
Just a few of the things of the top of my head.....
Examine the upper front control arm bushings as they seem to like to relocate themselves.
Check your brake pads for taper top to bottom. If thicker at the bottom....time to replace the calipers as they are splayed at the bridge.
Put the car in the air and check all four wheels for play holding your hands at 12 and 6, then 9 and 3. 9 and 3 wobble usually means rod ends, 12 and 6 usually means hub.
Check your spring adjusting bolts to make sure the rubber (or delrin) pad on the end is still there (Surprise!!! I found a broken spring bolt my last inspection)
Just a few of the things of the top of my head.....
#7
Tolero Apto Victum
#8
Race Director
BTW I found the REGULAR SKF in an SKF box for $200 at NAPA. Preferred customer discount & all I did was ask for any discount.
The RACE SKF is better of course if you race, but for autox and DE IMO the regular is plenty.
The RACE SKF is better of course if you race, but for autox and DE IMO the regular is plenty.
#9
Drifting
--Dan
#10
Race Director
After my second OEM hub went out within two weekends I went to the race version of SKFs on all four corners. With all the time my car spends on big Kumho 710s it made sense for me to spend the extra money. The potential for time lost during a track day (where I lost half the day plus scurrying about to find a replacement hub on a Saturday) or in being trailered home from an autox on a Sunday by a friend convinced me the better hubs were the choice to make.
--Dan
--Dan
I am on 4 of them with 55k miles.
Lot of a6 & 710 laps.
#11
Tech Contributor
Brake lines if older than 3 yrs or any sign of damage.
I've see enough reports of SS lines interfering with ABS/TCS I've been afraid to go that route.
I've see enough reports of SS lines interfering with ABS/TCS I've been afraid to go that route.
#13
Drifting
#15
Instructor
Don't forget to check the motor and tranny mounts. For the motor mounts, they are filled with a dirty looking oil. When they start to leak, it shows up as a stain on the oil pan, so don't confuse it with an oil leak. (The stain is more black than brown.) Look for splits on the tranny mounts. If you do any AX as well, those events are particularly hard on both motor and transmission mounts.
Also, a big +1 on the brake lines. With 5 or 6 DE's plus 30 AX events per year, I replace mine every 2 years, even though they look fine from a visual inspection point. DE's put a lot of heat into the line at the banjo and the crimp. Even with good visual inspections, you can't see if the line is degraded under the crimp area. (I learned the brake line lesson - luckily at a low speed situation with an escape route available.)
Also, a big +1 on the brake lines. With 5 or 6 DE's plus 30 AX events per year, I replace mine every 2 years, even though they look fine from a visual inspection point. DE's put a lot of heat into the line at the banjo and the crimp. Even with good visual inspections, you can't see if the line is degraded under the crimp area. (I learned the brake line lesson - luckily at a low speed situation with an escape route available.)
Last edited by CONE RACER; 08-30-2013 at 09:05 PM.