High Performance clutch C5 Z06
09-04-2013, 06:34 PM
#1
High Performance clutch C5 Z06
Hi,
I am putting together a track day car, track day use only, full cage etc.
I have been advised to install a high preformance clutch as the present one I believe is getting towards the end of it's life. Admittedly the car spends a lot of its life around 6000rpm and will continue to do so for a few years.
Any advice, on brand of clutch and 'do's and don'ts?'
Much appreciated in advance !
I am putting together a track day car, track day use only, full cage etc.
I have been advised to install a high preformance clutch as the present one I believe is getting towards the end of it's life. Admittedly the car spends a lot of its life around 6000rpm and will continue to do so for a few years.
Any advice, on brand of clutch and 'do's and don'ts?'
Much appreciated in advance !
09-05-2013, 10:24 AM
#5
Burning Brakes
Pedal stop needed for QuarterMaster 7.25" Triple?
Did anyone get recommendations to install a pedal stop? I did not, trying to confirm now so I don't ruin the slave.
09-05-2013, 10:40 AM
#6
Premium Supporting Vendor
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We use either the Mantic 9000 for street/track cars, or the Mantic 7000 series triple for track dedicated cars.
The lighter rotating mass will free up some HP, and the WOT shifts are smooth as can be which helps transmission syncro life.
We also make a clutch stop for the C5 and C6 that is compatible with either clutch and will not damage any other component in the system.
We are running a a sale on these now which include a new slave cylinder, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, clutch bleeder kit and shipping within the cont US for $1,595
Clutch pedal stops are $75 when purchased separately, or $60 at the time of purchase of a clutch. The piece is adjustable so everything still functions properly like cruise and start engagement etc.
The lighter rotating mass will free up some HP, and the WOT shifts are smooth as can be which helps transmission syncro life.
We also make a clutch stop for the C5 and C6 that is compatible with either clutch and will not damage any other component in the system.
We are running a a sale on these now which include a new slave cylinder, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, clutch bleeder kit and shipping within the cont US for $1,595
Clutch pedal stops are $75 when purchased separately, or $60 at the time of purchase of a clutch. The piece is adjustable so everything still functions properly like cruise and start engagement etc.
09-05-2013, 10:41 AM
#7
Safety Car
09-05-2013, 05:03 PM
#8
Former Vendor
The Torque Clamp clutch is an excellent choice for full track cars or street cars. The clutch can be tailored to the type of driving you will be doing with different friction materials available. Torque Clamp clutch is CNC machined billet aluminum and is much lighter then the oem clutch. This clutch has a very smooth but positive engagement with minimal pedal pressure needed over the oem clutch. All parts including friction material are available separately so the clutch can be rebuilt if needed. Big advantage for the track guy.
09-09-2013, 02:18 PM
#10
Drifting
How much power are you making? I've put 10,000 miles on my car and driven 16 track days on my '04 Z at the advanced level making 392whp and my clutch still feels fine.
09-10-2013, 12:09 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
Go with a little racing clutch. I recently rebuilt my C5 into an ST2 car, and I installed a Quartermaster 5.5" clutch. I burned out the clutch immediately, as I've got to navigate a 300 ft maze of K turns to get into my lift area, so I threw a stock C5z clutch back in. The difference on the road is night and day. With the racing clutch, the car revs like a *** tuner car, super fast and incredibly fast shifts, it was great. I wouldn't call it streetable but it's no problem cruising around town to test stuff etc. I blew it up because I slipped it continuously for like 5 min and that killed it in one shot. The next day I threw the stock clutch back in and the car felt like a slug in comparison. As soon as the season ends I'm rebuilding the QM clutch and putting it back in the car, I'll tow it into my work area from then on. I made a simple pedal stop, just weld a 3/4" nut to a plate and bolt it through the floor/firewall. Use a 3/4" bolt with a jamnut to make an adjustable stop. The stock switch under there comes out, and just jump the plug and tape it up into the harness. Hope that helps...
BTW I don't see a problem getting the car onto the trailer with the small clutch unless you're one of those guys that drives on like an old lady. It basically becomes an on/off switch, no slipping.
BTW I don't see a problem getting the car onto the trailer with the small clutch unless you're one of those guys that drives on like an old lady. It basically becomes an on/off switch, no slipping.
Last edited by moespeeds; 09-10-2013 at 12:11 PM.
09-12-2013, 02:02 AM
#12
Melting Slicks
09-13-2013, 01:26 AM
#14
Race Director
clutch choices need to be whittled down by how much torque you make and if the car sees the street
under 450ft/lb and needing street manners the monster stage 1 gives you an oem type organic friction disc, a pressure plate that's much less likely to cause the stuck pedal syndrome under pressure and has an optional 18lb flywheel
if it's a race car or makes a lot of power your choice would change
under 450ft/lb and needing street manners the monster stage 1 gives you an oem type organic friction disc, a pressure plate that's much less likely to cause the stuck pedal syndrome under pressure and has an optional 18lb flywheel
if it's a race car or makes a lot of power your choice would change
