Caliper upgrade - Anyone try AP?
#1
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Thread Starter
Caliper upgrade - Anyone try AP?
Getting pad taper top to bottom and left to right.... Even RP2 pads are only lasting 4 or 5 weekends with ducts. Time for a caliper upgrade. Anyone try the AP 8350 or Sprint calipers? I'd rather not get new wheels (17" C5Zs up front) but also don't want to waste money on calipers that won't solve the problem. How much did your pad life increase? Did you get their $1,000 front rotors as well? How much longer rotor life did you get?
Thanks,
Chris
Thanks,
Chris
Last edited by SunnydayDILYSI; 09-14-2013 at 06:01 PM.
#3
Drifting
I have the AP T1 kit and run stock rotors. The calipers fit over stock 17" C5 Z06 wheels with plenty of clearance.
The pads last a lot longer, cost less and without a lot of taper wear. Plus a set of 20 mm thick pads will normally last twice as long as a set of stock used to.
The pedal feel is solid until the bitter end of pad material.
The pads last a lot longer, cost less and without a lot of taper wear. Plus a set of 20 mm thick pads will normally last twice as long as a set of stock used to.
The pedal feel is solid until the bitter end of pad material.
#5
Drifting
I upgraded from stock calipers running XP12/10 pads to AP T1 kit that fit under my 17's. Now I run Carbotech XP20/10's. Still on stock rear calipers.
Here is what I found.
The car brakes better than before with a more consistent pedal. However, as the pads where down the pedal does go down. I have been running Amsoil brake fluid and am going to try out Castrol SRF next time out. I also have SKF front hubs and a Doug Rippie brake kit. This is on my '04 Z making 392whp. I mostly track at Sebring which is very hard on brakes. When I made the switch to the brake kit I also started using slicks for the first time, Continental GT-I's. Unlike the others, I am still experiencing pad taper and I have read other threads where people said they did as well. However, it's not as big of a deal with these calipers because it's one bolt to pull them out and swap sides. Very easy.
I am also not seeing that much longer life out of the pads than I did with the stock calipers. I believe that jumping to slicks along with having more braking power is essentially wearing the parts down about the same. I have read that Carbotech pads wear quickly so it could be my pad choice but I am also VERY hard on my brakes. I instruct and would go to say I brake very hard compared to most people I ride with. I am pretty much maxing out my brake system on every corner leaving very little or nothing left sometimes. I think this also contributes to my pad life because maybe I am trying to push them a little too hard.
Overall, I think it's a good system. My buddy has a Stoptech ST-40 set on his M3. His car is about 300lbs lighter than mine but his brakes feel A LOT more solid so I often wonder if a 14" kit would have provided more stopping power. My AP kit gets very hot and I think it's because of its size. I run 18" wheels too where it has more cooling.
That being said, it's nice to have a set I can throw my stock wheels on to drive home and it is a big improvement over the stock system hands down. It's easy to work with and the pad prices are about the same.
Here is what I found.
The car brakes better than before with a more consistent pedal. However, as the pads where down the pedal does go down. I have been running Amsoil brake fluid and am going to try out Castrol SRF next time out. I also have SKF front hubs and a Doug Rippie brake kit. This is on my '04 Z making 392whp. I mostly track at Sebring which is very hard on brakes. When I made the switch to the brake kit I also started using slicks for the first time, Continental GT-I's. Unlike the others, I am still experiencing pad taper and I have read other threads where people said they did as well. However, it's not as big of a deal with these calipers because it's one bolt to pull them out and swap sides. Very easy.
I am also not seeing that much longer life out of the pads than I did with the stock calipers. I believe that jumping to slicks along with having more braking power is essentially wearing the parts down about the same. I have read that Carbotech pads wear quickly so it could be my pad choice but I am also VERY hard on my brakes. I instruct and would go to say I brake very hard compared to most people I ride with. I am pretty much maxing out my brake system on every corner leaving very little or nothing left sometimes. I think this also contributes to my pad life because maybe I am trying to push them a little too hard.
Overall, I think it's a good system. My buddy has a Stoptech ST-40 set on his M3. His car is about 300lbs lighter than mine but his brakes feel A LOT more solid so I often wonder if a 14" kit would have provided more stopping power. My AP kit gets very hot and I think it's because of its size. I run 18" wheels too where it has more cooling.
That being said, it's nice to have a set I can throw my stock wheels on to drive home and it is a big improvement over the stock system hands down. It's easy to work with and the pad prices are about the same.
#6
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St. Jude Donor '11,'13
You should move to xp24. We our seeing better wear. Call me when your ready.
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Adam Adelstein
Amp’D Autosport.com
Internet's largest retailer of Carbotech Performance Brake Pads.
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Check out Promo code:z28
Adam Adelstein
Amp’D Autosport.com
Internet's largest retailer of Carbotech Performance Brake Pads.
PH:216-780-8825.
Email: sales@ampdautosport.com
Web Site & Direct ordering http://ampdautosport.com/
All major CC and Pay Pal accepted.
Check out Promo code:z28
#7
Pro
Thread Starter
Jeremy, thank you for the good info. Did you go with the AP rotors as well? Regarding pads, I recently started condensing my braking zones as well and began eating up XP10s in a couple weekends. I moved to RP2s and have noticed much better life (an extra weekend or two).
#8
Drifting
I have the AP T1 kit and run stock rotors. The calipers fit over stock 17" C5 Z06 wheels with plenty of clearance.
The pads last a lot longer, cost less and without a lot of taper wear. Plus a set of 20 mm thick pads will normally last twice as long as a set of stock used to.
The pedal feel is solid until the bitter end of pad material.
The pads last a lot longer, cost less and without a lot of taper wear. Plus a set of 20 mm thick pads will normally last twice as long as a set of stock used to.
The pedal feel is solid until the bitter end of pad material.
#9
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I upgraded from stock calipers running XP12/10 pads to AP T1 kit that fit under my 17's. Now I run Carbotech XP20/10's. Still on stock rear calipers.
Here is what I found.
The car brakes better than before with a more consistent pedal. However, as the pads where down the pedal does go down. I have been running Amsoil brake fluid and am going to try out Castrol SRF next time out. I also have SKF front hubs and a Doug Rippie brake kit. This is on my '04 Z making 392whp. I mostly track at Sebring which is very hard on brakes. When I made the switch to the brake kit I also started using slicks for the first time, Continental GT-I's. Unlike the others, I am still experiencing pad taper and I have read other threads where people said they did as well. However, it's not as big of a deal with these calipers because it's one bolt to pull them out and swap sides. Very easy.
I am also not seeing that much longer life out of the pads than I did with the stock calipers. I believe that jumping to slicks along with having more braking power is essentially wearing the parts down about the same. I have read that Carbotech pads wear quickly so it could be my pad choice but I am also VERY hard on my brakes. I instruct and would go to say I brake very hard compared to most people I ride with. I am pretty much maxing out my brake system on every corner leaving very little or nothing left sometimes. I think this also contributes to my pad life because maybe I am trying to push them a little too hard.
Overall, I think it's a good system. My buddy has a Stoptech ST-40 set on his M3. His car is about 300lbs lighter than mine but his brakes feel A LOT more solid so I often wonder if a 14" kit would have provided more stopping power. My AP kit gets very hot and I think it's because of its size. I run 18" wheels too where it has more cooling.
That being said, it's nice to have a set I can throw my stock wheels on to drive home and it is a big improvement over the stock system hands down. It's easy to work with and the pad prices are about the same.
Here is what I found.
The car brakes better than before with a more consistent pedal. However, as the pads where down the pedal does go down. I have been running Amsoil brake fluid and am going to try out Castrol SRF next time out. I also have SKF front hubs and a Doug Rippie brake kit. This is on my '04 Z making 392whp. I mostly track at Sebring which is very hard on brakes. When I made the switch to the brake kit I also started using slicks for the first time, Continental GT-I's. Unlike the others, I am still experiencing pad taper and I have read other threads where people said they did as well. However, it's not as big of a deal with these calipers because it's one bolt to pull them out and swap sides. Very easy.
I am also not seeing that much longer life out of the pads than I did with the stock calipers. I believe that jumping to slicks along with having more braking power is essentially wearing the parts down about the same. I have read that Carbotech pads wear quickly so it could be my pad choice but I am also VERY hard on my brakes. I instruct and would go to say I brake very hard compared to most people I ride with. I am pretty much maxing out my brake system on every corner leaving very little or nothing left sometimes. I think this also contributes to my pad life because maybe I am trying to push them a little too hard.
Overall, I think it's a good system. My buddy has a Stoptech ST-40 set on his M3. His car is about 300lbs lighter than mine but his brakes feel A LOT more solid so I often wonder if a 14" kit would have provided more stopping power. My AP kit gets very hot and I think it's because of its size. I run 18" wheels too where it has more cooling.
That being said, it's nice to have a set I can throw my stock wheels on to drive home and it is a big improvement over the stock system hands down. It's easy to work with and the pad prices are about the same.
But pads are easy to change and they are cheap. Also was a must for me to be able to keep using 17" OEM wheels for street tires. Being able to use stock size rotors is great too.
I'm also an instructor and brake hard normally. Right now having electronic issues which are preventing proper electronic bias, though.
#10
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I have had pretty much the same experience. I still get taper (seems to be getting worse, I think my calipers are due for a rebuild), brakes get really hot, wear isn't much better than with stock calipers, and pedal/feel goes down as pads wear, goes back up when putting new pads in, without changing fluid so it's not the fluid.
But pads are easy to change and they are cheap. Also was a must for me to be able to keep using 17" OEM wheels for street tires. Being able to use stock size rotors is great too.
I'm also an instructor and brake hard normally. Right now having electronic issues which are preventing proper electronic bias, though.
But pads are easy to change and they are cheap. Also was a must for me to be able to keep using 17" OEM wheels for street tires. Being able to use stock size rotors is great too.
I'm also an instructor and brake hard normally. Right now having electronic issues which are preventing proper electronic bias, though.
C5 and early C6 spindles are known to flex at the caliper mount.
When GM developed the ZR1 they found this out and developed a new spindle which has a stronger caliper mount. It is now used on all C6's.
#12
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#14
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There are many factors that will cause or cure pad taper. But stronger mounting bosses for the caliper will definitely help.
It made a difference on my car.
#15
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Not faulting you, I was just interested in more data. Were you using the stock calipers or aftermarket ones?
Can I assume that the new spindles will just bolt in without the need to change anything else (caliper mounting brackets, suspension/steering parts, etc.)?
Can I assume that the new spindles will just bolt in without the need to change anything else (caliper mounting brackets, suspension/steering parts, etc.)?
#16
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Yes they are a direct fit but you will need to reset toe.
#17
Carbotech Adam - I have a C4 with the stock 2 piston calipers and 13" rotors. Is there someone who would have your pads available in the Seattle/Tacoma area? I need them for a race that is happening this week-end!