Racingswh

Could anyone help me with or point me in the direction of where to find a list of proper modifications to do to a C6GS? Searched and came up with lot's of piece meal but mostly initial track event prep stuff.

2010 GS 6MN and I already have installed seats and harnesses. XP12's front, XP10's rear. SRF fluid. Hoosier R6's or Continental scrubs.

Other than that car is stock.

The car is a street car that is hardly ever driven on the street. The car will never be a W2W race car. The car will only be used at DE and TT events.

I will leave the engine stock and keep it that way for as long as it lasts.

My thoughts are brake ducts which I have already and need to install and T1 suspension. Am I missing anything? It just seems too simple.

ErnieN85

Tow hooks & hope you never need them
Thats about all you really need

Racingswh

Thanks for the reminder. I have needed them a few times in the past so you're right I need them on this car as well.

I know I am over-thinking it but suspension adjustability works for me. Is there any better option than the T1? Anything that will work appreciably better?

joenationwide

IMHO wait on the suspension for a while just make sure the car is track reliable. C5 and C6 OEM suspensions are very good and well balanced. I learned to track on a car with coilovers and I think the learning curve would have been quicker if I started on a car with OEM suspension that has more dramatic body roll, pitch, and heave. That being said I started tracking a C5Z06 with stock suspension and have no plans to "upgrade". Just my $0.02.

*EDIT* Didn't realize you were running slicks. Sounds like you might want to upgrade suspension and bushings to keep up with the grip.

TorontoC6

Install some poly bushings (Pfadt kit of similar) and upgrade to skf race hubs. The slicks put a beating on the stock bushings and bearings and the hot brakes add heat. Air flow for the brakes is critical to long rotor life so put in spindle ducts.

I would also add a set of good stainless brake lines.

Watch your temps at the track (oil, water, diff, trans). Upgrade cooling where necessary.

If you enjoy your time at the track and have the cash, then upgrade to coilovers and some matching bars.

GS is a nice track platform. I started with a Z51 C6.

Chevy Nick

Remote Clutch Bleeder (I have katech's unit)

What seats did you install?

Racingswh

The car seems reliable. I think we have been in it for 3 to 4 events. It's not my primary car actually. My wife drives it mostly. We did DD the car at the Glen when the Viper's trans decided to stop working on the second warm up lap of the weekend. We then had the car pull DD at Pocono a couple weeks ago. Fun track configuration using a combo of the North and South courses clockwise.

Something in the right front section of the braking system let go spewing fluid and smelling up the place. Thought they were on fire actually when I pulled into the garage area. They weren't but of course the caliper piston boots disintegrated.

I have gotten extremely comfortable left foot braking and the transitions are much smoother but even so on cold slicks the car is big sideways everywhere. It gets better as the slicks warm up but smoothness rules or else the backend steps out and the car rolls and shifts on the suspension. Don't get me wrong I love driving that way and do it as often as I can especially in the wet but it's the slow way around although fun for the occasional passenger. This car is way, way harder to drive than a stock well adjusted on ACR.

That brings me to the suspension at this point. I just want to do it once with the best option yet something fairly simple. In other words I don't need remote reservoir triple adjustable Ohlins, Penske's or JRZ's. From my experience they do not yield enough performance benefit to justify dollars spent. A double adjustable solution is fine. I say that but at the same time hear the non adjustable Sachs T1's are just fine. I figure I will use the Phoenix Delrin bushings.

Thanks for the clutch bleeder reminder. A must do over the winter. Also the SKF's which will happen during the off season as well. I will get the brake lines ordered tomorrow. Spindle ducts are already in the garage and will go on next week with the brake lines.

Seats are Cobra Suzuka's on fixed Hardbar seat mounts (Thanks Gary!) Brey Krause Harness bar and Team Tech harnesses.

Next event we will have the Race Keeper Data and Video in it shared with the Viper. Neat kit that allows transfer of the recording unit from one car to the other.

I want to get the car in a nice reliable, predictable state of set up and then just maintain it properly.

5280Racer

BRAKES... change your fluid and get some good pads plus buy a set of non drilled rotors for the ones you will crack in the front! cheap and easy suspension mods DRM bilstiens.. good camber set up.. and some good tires... then go have fun!!!!

Racingswh

Thank you very much for the reply. Good advice! It's definitely fun.

Crazy to think but this is my 23rd year of track driving.

Going to talk with Joe at Phoenix and come up with a solution for the suspension. Thank you all for your thoughts.

NOSLO6

Given your location I'd call Joe at Phoenix Performance. He and his staff are world class and he'll have solutions that fit your goals. He's also a great guy, which is a huge bonus. You might also think about cooling needs, whether just oil or diff/trans as well.

Edit: Just saw your post above. I use the T1 springs and sways and plain old non-adjustable Bilsteins. They work fantastically for my goals-- I wouldn't shy away from the simple, proven solutions like the sachs T1 shocks or other non-adjustables unless you have the desire and experience to tune your shocks. Joe also used Phoenix's delrin bushings on my car and it's nice not to have to deal with the bushings pushing out anymore.

yakisoba

How is the dry sump working out when you're on the Hoosiers?

Racingswh

Good question without any real way for me to measure. I change the oil every event. No issues yet. Oil pressure is good at idle through red line. I don't pay attention to the pressure in high G situations so I can't tell you there although I am guessing my Race Keeper and whatever comes out of the OBDII port may capture that info. I will know at the next event in a few weeks. The car has 17K on it now so 4K in the past year and it's driven less now than ever before. Time will tell how it holds up.

Spoke with Joe and T1 sways and springs, Sachs shocks, Delrin bushings all setup by Joe is what I am doing to the suspension. Seems to be the most logical and pretty cost effective solution.

I know with that setup that I will be on an equal playing field with many other cars and until I am as fast as they are I will know that it's my deficiencies as a driver holding me back.

MarkDFW

You can get as crazy as you want. Here's what I would look to do:

sway bar
coilovers
pfadt poly control arm bushings
aftermarket radiator with integrated oil cooler, or get a dedicated oil cooler
SKF race hubs
ARP wheel studs
APR performance aerodynamics
tranny cooler
Big Brake Kit such as Stoptech or AP Racing (only need the front, rear can stay stock) - if you don't do this then the brake ducts are a good option. I went with Stoptech and SRF fluid in addition to my carbotech pads and have zero issues with brake fade.

For the money, you'll probably pick up the most time on track from sway bar and poly control arm bushings. Don't neglect keeping it cool. If you run it hard, your oil and tranny temps will get up there and you need to look at cooling.

My 2 cents