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Old 11-01-2013, 05:25 PM
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383
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I'm measuring 9.5 driver side 10.7 passenger side but the car tracks straight and doesn't seem to pull under braking. Should I bother to even each side out?
Is this possible without unstable handling or are my measurements off?
Chris
Old 11-01-2013, 05:33 PM
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froggy47
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Originally Posted by 383
I'm measuring 9.5 driver side 10.7 passenger side but the car tracks straight and doesn't seem to pull under braking. Should I bother to even each side out?
Is this possible without unstable handling or are my measurements off?
Chris
I would not bother, but the spread is more than what I have on mine.

The trouble with making caster equal is you usually give up some negative camber (if you run a lot of negative camber) to equal it.

The neg camber is more important.

Old 11-01-2013, 06:15 PM
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every thing else is pretty close.

F CAM = -2.4d -2.8p
F CAS = -9.5d -10.7p
TOE = -7/16" out I know its a ton but it felt way better that way

R CAM = -1d -1.2p
TOE +3/16"

Could the ride height be throwing the castor off? My front control arms seem to be pitched up to the outside (wheel)
fender height is 25 1/2"D 25 1/4"P front and 26 5/8" each side rear.
from the ground to the control arm bolt is 5.7/16"D 5.1/8"P and the rear is 6.1/8" to the center of the rear control arm bolt
(I measured to the front LCA bolt in the front and the rear LCA bolt in the rear)
Old 11-01-2013, 09:36 PM
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Bill Dearborn
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If you want to even it out a little you have enough camber on the right side that you could drop it down to the left side value. You should be able to reduce the camber setting on the rear control arm mount which would also reduce your caster setting and allow you to equalize the camber and caster readings.

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Old 11-02-2013, 12:17 AM
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good point. Ill try that this weekend when I raise the ride height a bit.
Has anyone else been maxed for camber adjustment in the rear at -1.2?
(07'Z51) my passenger side has the #6 "shim" on the pivot bolt and only reads -1.2*
Is my low ride height causing this?
Thanks again
Chris
Old 11-02-2013, 12:19 AM
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I just revisited this & paid more attention to your numbers.

That is a really big difference IMO on the front neg camber.

I play with mine until I am exact (to the 10th) on front and I allow .1 difference on the rear (neg camber) only because my camber kit "blocks" are in .1 deg. increments.

Why is your front off so much driver vs pass?

I would start over before you even worry about caster.

Maybe fixing (equaling) the front will get you closer on caster.

Old 11-02-2013, 08:23 AM
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Could be my method of measurement I'm using a level and a ruler then multiplying each 1/8th by .3975. I'm gonna drive then re-measure and adjust if needed.
The first time I forgot driver weight in the seat so that could account for some difference
Old 11-02-2013, 08:35 AM
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The pad where the car sits needs to be level left to right.

Steve A.
Old 11-02-2013, 08:47 AM
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I use VCT tiles to level all 4 wheels to within 1/8" of each othe.
Will lower ride height limit neg camber?
Old 11-02-2013, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 383
Could be my method of measurement I'm using a level and a ruler then multiplying each 1/8th by .3975. I'm gonna drive then re-measure and adjust if needed.
The first time I forgot driver weight in the seat so that could account for some difference
You need to "settle the car" after each adjustment also. I prefer to drive it, some roll it back & forth.

It's a LONG process.

Old 11-02-2013, 04:10 PM
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I drive between adjustments too, Takes forever. Does anyone know what 1fill turn on the spring adjuster translates to?
Old 11-02-2013, 09:55 PM
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Answer 2 full turns = about 1/4" fender height difference
Old 11-02-2013, 10:40 PM
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Good stuff.

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