Rebuilding Drivetrain: Should I Use Solid Aluminum Couplers for the Torque Tube?
11-20-2013, 08:02 PM
#1
Rebuilding Drivetrain: Should I Use Solid Aluminum Couplers for the Torque Tube?
I've got everything behind the clutch out of my car (C6 z06) and I'm rebuilding everything for a dedicated track car (roadcourse). I'm going to replace the torque tube with a 3.5" HD unit from the drive shaft shop, new bearings, and I've got a pair of solid aluminum couplers to replace the OEM rubber units that come with the car. But now I've been reading that this may not be a good idea? I don't mind any extra noise or vibration, but I want to make sure this is the most solid/reliable approach for a dedicated track car. Are there any reliability downsides to using two solid Al couplers on the torque tube? I've heard that while the solid aluminum is much stronger, it could possibly be *too* stiff for the powertrain, which may need a certain level of give in the driveshaft... is there any truth to this? Keep in mind that I am already using Pfadt's solid aluminum engine and transmission mounts. I'm going to be installing a new RPM ZR1 transmission in the car if that matters. 
11-20-2013, 11:58 PM
#2
Race Director
I've got everything behind the clutch out of my car (C6 z06) and I'm rebuilding everything for a dedicated track car (roadcourse). I'm going to replace the torque tube with a 3.5" HD unit from the drive shaft shop, new bearings, and I've got a pair of solid aluminum couplers to replace the OEM rubber units that come with the car. But now I've been reading that this may not be a good idea? I don't mind any extra noise or vibration, but I want to make sure this is the most solid/reliable approach for a dedicated track car. Are there any reliability downsides to using two solid Al couplers on the torque tube? I've heard that while the solid aluminum is much stronger, it could possibly be *too* stiff for the powertrain, which may need a certain level of give in the driveshaft... is there any truth to this? Keep in mind that I am already using Pfadt's solid aluminum engine and transmission mounts. I'm going to be installing a new RPM ZR1 transmission in the car if that matters.
11-21-2013, 11:55 AM
#5
Burning Brakes
Its a track car, you are going to add a lightweight triple clutch at some point (PS: do it now, the drivetrain is out!) for the extra oomph it gives you coming out of the corners and the ability to execute lightning fast shifts. Those clutches are hard hitting, fierce, no-give on off switches. You just put the rest of the entire drivetrain under a lot more stress. I added the lightweight triple 7 months ago and have snapped one half shaft and 2 weeks ago I destroyed the rubber couplers in the torque tube during a race on an extra bumpy track. The half shaft was old as were the couplers.. but still it could have been directly related. I actually snapped one of the coupler bolts and bent another.
Going forward I keep two stock halfshafts in my spares kit and I'm going to keep 2 OEM rubber giubo couplers/isolaters (plus a couple of extra bolts) in the spares kit. I am also going to replace isolators proactively every 1-2 years just to avoid the inevitable. I can't imagine the stress on the diff and halfshalfts of going to zero rubber in the drivetrain with slicks and a hard hitting clutch. My vote is no.
Going forward I keep two stock halfshafts in my spares kit and I'm going to keep 2 OEM rubber giubo couplers/isolaters (plus a couple of extra bolts) in the spares kit. I am also going to replace isolators proactively every 1-2 years just to avoid the inevitable. I can't imagine the stress on the diff and halfshalfts of going to zero rubber in the drivetrain with slicks and a hard hitting clutch. My vote is no.
11-21-2013, 06:44 PM
#6
Drifting
Its a track car, you are going to add a lightweight triple clutch at some point (PS: do it now, the drivetrain is out!) for the extra oomph it gives you coming out of the corners and the ability to execute lightning fast shifts. Those clutches are hard hitting, fierce, no-give on off switches. You just put the rest of the entire drivetrain under a lot more stress. I added the lightweight triple 7 months ago and have snapped one half shaft and 2 weeks ago I destroyed the rubber couplers in the torque tube during a race on an extra bumpy track. The half shaft was old as were the couplers.. but still it could have been directly related. I actually snapped one of the coupler bolts and bent another.
Going forward I keep two stock halfshafts in my spares kit and I'm going to keep 2 OEM rubber giubo couplers/isolaters (plus a couple of extra bolts) in the spares kit. I am also going to replace isolators proactively every 1-2 years just to avoid the inevitable. I can't imagine the stress on the diff and halfshalfts of going to zero rubber in the drivetrain with slicks and a hard hitting clutch. My vote is no.
Going forward I keep two stock halfshafts in my spares kit and I'm going to keep 2 OEM rubber giubo couplers/isolaters (plus a couple of extra bolts) in the spares kit. I am also going to replace isolators proactively every 1-2 years just to avoid the inevitable. I can't imagine the stress on the diff and halfshalfts of going to zero rubber in the drivetrain with slicks and a hard hitting clutch. My vote is no.
11-21-2013, 09:17 PM
#7
Pro
Member Since: Jun 2003
Location: Cincinnati Ohio
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I would go with the Quartermaster 7 1/4" triple disc. The first one lasted me 5 years and it isn't treated nicely at all. You can contact Danny Popp as he can get you that clutch and the custom braided lines that's needed to work in a c5 or c6.
I am rebuilding my TT right now. I am going to use both alum front and rear couplers in it. We will see how long it lasts.
11-21-2013, 11:17 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
What he said! Exactly what I did.
11-22-2013, 01:53 AM
#9
Drifting
After I did my own research awhile back I went with the BMW ones (same exact coupler) but made in Germany for certain instead of elsewhere. I think GM used them as factory before changing suppliers. Same part goes in a 318 bmw apparently. I have a Spec stage 3 plus and fordenza (sp?) flywheel. The Spec clutch isn't popular on this forum but it has worked for me on pretty stock ls1 racecar. McLeod clutches are popular with higher hp vettes in the circles I run in.
11-22-2013, 08:14 AM
#10
Race Director
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Deal's Gap 2004 NCM Motorsports track supporter
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I would go with the Quartermaster 7 1/4" triple disc. The first one lasted me 5 years and it isn't treated nicely at all. You can contact Danny Popp as he can get you that clutch and the custom braided lines that's needed to work in a c5 or c6.
I am rebuilding my TT right now. I am going to use both alum front and rear couplers in it. We will see how long it lasts.
I am rebuilding my TT right now. I am going to use both alum front and rear couplers in it. We will see how long it lasts.
The route I went. Aluminum both ends and same clutch. 420HP to the rear, been tracking a couple of years with no problems so far.
11-22-2013, 11:46 AM
#11
Safety Car
Are you guys going solid keeping the rubber diff mount?
I had a Pfadt diff mount and a QM some time ago, but the pilot bearing exploded. Not sure why, but it has me thinking that something soft is needed somewhere.
I had a Pfadt diff mount and a QM some time ago, but the pilot bearing exploded. Not sure why, but it has me thinking that something soft is needed somewhere.
11-22-2013, 02:59 PM
#13
Safety Car
Alright, I am chalking up my experience to NYC traffic (including many stops and starts on hills)+QM+towing 600lb trailer.
I had delrin engine mounts and the Pfadt diff brace at the time, though had rubber ends on the prop shaft.
I had delrin engine mounts and the Pfadt diff brace at the time, though had rubber ends on the prop shaft.
11-22-2013, 08:26 PM
#14
Burning Brakes
10-21-2018, 02:29 PM
#16
10-21-2018, 05:07 PM
#17
You have to align the wave perfectly.
A maximum of 0.2 elevation at the beginning and the end, then there are no fibrations
We build all track vehicles with aluminum coupler
A maximum of 0.2 elevation at the beginning and the end, then there are no fibrations
We build all track vehicles with aluminum coupler
