Rod bolt replacement
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Rod bolt replacement
Can engine be raised enough to remove oil pan to replace
Rod bolts with ARP,s for preventive maintenance.
Or is there another way.
02 Z. 37,000 miles. Hpde only car.
Will be replacing damper, & doing trunion upgrade shortly.
Rod bolts with ARP,s for preventive maintenance.
Or is there another way.
02 Z. 37,000 miles. Hpde only car.
Will be replacing damper, & doing trunion upgrade shortly.
#3
I'm not an expert, but if I remember correctly, arp rod bolts can't be used as a direct replacement. Or maybe they can't be done without tear down, I remember hearing something about them years ago when I was going to upgrade mine in my LS1 Z28. Either way, I do know for sure that Katech rod bolts can be used/installed by simply removing the oil pan. Tick Performance installed mine, if you call them I'm sure Jonathan can give you some tips on the install.
#4
Safety Car
I think the official word on ARPs is that you should have your rods checked and possibly resized. The katechs are a bolt-in.
Some people have directly installed the ARPs with no issues, IIRC. Not really worth chancing it.
Some people have directly installed the ARPs with no issues, IIRC. Not really worth chancing it.
#7
Racer
If you are really set on doing this. I would pop out the motor. It's not that hard and it would be easier and better to do this job on an engine stand. I've done it several times by myself. If it were me. I would pass on doing rod bolts. I'm sure they'll be fine. I would be more worried about your guibos in your torque tube more than rod bolts.
#8
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Dec 2006
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If you are really set on doing this. I would pop out the motor. It's not that hard and it would be easier and better to do this job on an engine stand. I've done it several times by myself. If it were me. I would pass on doing rod bolts. I'm sure they'll be fine. I would be more worried about your guibos in your torque tube more than rod bolts.
fyi bad ( dry) old motor mounts will cause your torque tube bushings (guibos) to fail. by now all original C5 motor mounts are shot
I did 3 torque tubes until i figured it out!l
#10
Safety Car
Assuming you are keeping the stock redline and roughly stock power levels, you should be fine w/OEM bolts.
Would more readily consider this if it was an upgraded/higher-rev'ing pre-'00 engine. Or if you were competing and regularly needed extra revs (7k range).
Would more readily consider this if it was an upgraded/higher-rev'ing pre-'00 engine. Or if you were competing and regularly needed extra revs (7k range).
#11
Le Mans Master
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they are just cheap hunks of rubber not designed to last more than 5 years
when you replace them it is a great time to do the harmonic balancer and steering rack too
g/l
#12
Race Director
The 02's had the improved design rod bolts, I wouldn't change them. Only the early engines (97-00) had the sloppy rod bolts. If you are turning over 6900rpm, you need better rods, not just bolts
that being said, if you disconnect the motor mounts and drop the subframe as far as it will go (loosen bolts almost all the way), lower subframe/lift engine, I bet you can get just enough room to pull the pan. I can't remember if I've ever done it, but it seems like you should be able to do it.
that being said, if you disconnect the motor mounts and drop the subframe as far as it will go (loosen bolts almost all the way), lower subframe/lift engine, I bet you can get just enough room to pull the pan. I can't remember if I've ever done it, but it seems like you should be able to do it.