Initial washer stack for Hardbar Camlock kit?
03-01-2014, 03:03 PM
#1
Drifting
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Initial washer stack for Hardbar Camlock kit?
Hey all I'm in the middle of installing my Hardbar camlock kit. Does anyone have a baseline on how to install this thing for both track alignment and street alignment? The kit seems a bit confusing...
03-01-2014, 10:05 PM
#2
Pro
03-01-2014, 11:35 PM
#3
Race Director
Do you mean Camber Kit?
If yes, the different shims are how you set the camber YOU want. There is no correct shim to use, it's what you want.
If it's not this, please provide more detailed question.
If yes, the different shims are how you set the camber YOU want. There is no correct shim to use, it's what you want.
If it's not this, please provide more detailed question.
03-01-2014, 11:51 PM
#4
Drifting
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Yes the Hardbar camlock kit that includes studs and washers for the uppers. How many washers between the upper control arm and the frame? Like does each washer add or subtract 0.5 degree or is it completely experimental.
03-02-2014, 12:42 AM
#5
Track Junky
It all depends on what you want your camber to be. As said before, please provide the info on what your alignment to be and the guys with experience can help.
03-02-2014, 01:37 AM
#6
Drifting
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I just installed pfadt swaybars and pfadt inverted adjustable shocks. The car is dual purpose; hpde and road trips . Can you guys recommend both a street and track alignment? I have r compounds for the track 315/35/17 on 17" CCW classics. I do have a long acre camber gauge but I'd love a starting point.
03-02-2014, 09:40 AM
#7
Safety Car
I just installed pfadt swaybars and pfadt inverted adjustable shocks. The car is dual purpose; hpde and road trips . Can you guys recommend both a street and track alignment? I have r compounds for the track 315/35/17 on 17" CCW classics. I do have a long acre camber gauge but I'd love a starting point.
move the lowers all the way out with the camber plates.
leave one washer under each upper stud.
that is your track setup (max camber) now use the shims in the upper control arms to reduce camber to street (about 1 degree) then make the shims as to how many and where the are ( I used shrink wrap over the top to make packs) set your street toe now.
When you get to the track take the shims out and make sure you know which ones go where.
03-02-2014, 10:34 AM
#8
Burning Brakes
I have the Hardbar camber kit with the Phoenix Delrin UCA bushings and pivots. The pivots are asymmetrical like the Pfadts so their position also affects camber.
I am adding three washers and rotating the pivots to go from track (-2.0-deg camber) to street (-1.0-deg). To keep the same toe I need to lengthen the tie rod ends 2.75 turns on each side.
Ride height affects camber and camber affects toe, so my setting will be different than yours. Essentially I am running 3 washers for track and 6 for street with the pivot flip. An extra washer on some studs was needed to even things out.
With fewer washers I was able to get -2.7-deg of camber but tire temps showed that was too much on the track.
I am adding three washers and rotating the pivots to go from track (-2.0-deg camber) to street (-1.0-deg). To keep the same toe I need to lengthen the tie rod ends 2.75 turns on each side.
Ride height affects camber and camber affects toe, so my setting will be different than yours. Essentially I am running 3 washers for track and 6 for street with the pivot flip. An extra washer on some studs was needed to even things out.
With fewer washers I was able to get -2.7-deg of camber but tire temps showed that was too much on the track.
