Autocrossing & Roadracing Suspension Setup for Track Corvettes, Camber/Caster Adjustments, R-Compound Tires, Race Slicks, Tips on Driving Technique, Events, Results
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Old 12-26-2015, 09:43 AM
  #181  
ltborg
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Originally Posted by excelsior
Hi all,

First time poster, big apologies for reviving this dead but brilliant post. Just wanted to extend a huge thanks to the OP for this utterly thorough writeup. Was on the fence about getting one of these and this post plus a few looks at Nats results from 2015 clinched it for me. Its in my price range and there are some great deals out there right now. Almost overlooked it till driving my dad's C5 over the holiday...just need to try a manual and see how it feels.

Again, much thanks!
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it! And good choice on the C5. I think it will remain a competitive car. I have a few friends running in BS this year so I may have some info to post as the 2016 season goes on. Otherwise, most of the testing/data will be in its own thread or in the STU build thread I started under my vendor account.
Old 01-31-2016, 09:05 PM
  #182  
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I'm thinking about picking up a C5, but I'm doing a little research about tire options. What were people running for tire/wheel sizes at nationals this year? Life was easier with Hoosiers...
Old 02-01-2016, 12:53 AM
  #183  
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Yep, sure was. But that ship has sailed.

Can help you with setup and details on that. Pretty well did all the quickest AS, BS, and SSR C5 and C6's on my setups.

Wheel choice sucks for the C5 front in 18".
Old 02-01-2016, 06:47 AM
  #184  
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Originally Posted by 93Rubie
I've ran the numbers on the gearing its only slightly better.

The front wheels are wider, I personally plan on running 285/30/18's at all fours next year on my 93 Z07. Weight will hurt me, my 93 is heavily optioned (I didn't buy it with auto-x in mind at all, wasn't even on the radar, now here we sit......) Its heavy at 3300lbs (questionable scale accuracy) with full fluids, roof in, stock wheels, etc...I might be able to get it closer to 3200 on a good day with less fluids, lighter wheels,etc...

Keep in mind C4's handle better and won't have fuel starvation issues with a full fuel tank and with spare tire on the car.

My personal opinion is someone will try 275's or something on the stock 8.5" wide wheels and make it work on a C5. I personally also think B-Street will wind up being C5 and AWD boost buggy land. C4's and S2000's while close to each other don't have the power and traction of the other cars. I think the Z0K's and MSR's are going to get pounded.

Time will tell. Thanks for this thread, if and when I upgrade to a C5 this will come in handy. Good Job BTW last weekend.
I was also surprised on how well my Rubie ZO7 handled with the spare tire in and with a full tank.I ran the Koni Yellows Singles with special valving.
Old 02-01-2016, 07:38 AM
  #185  
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
Yep, sure was. But that ship has sailed.

Can help you with setup and details on that. Pretty well did all the quickest AS, BS, and SSR C5 and C6's on my setups.

Wheel choice sucks for the C5 front in 18".
Just looking at tire choice, my initial kneejerk reaction was to run the Rivals with 255/18s in the front and 315/18s in the rear. I am going to assume that isn't optimal, but I was just curious if anyone has tried it.

Last edited by sureshot007; 02-01-2016 at 07:48 AM.
Old 02-04-2016, 09:46 PM
  #186  
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Originally Posted by sureshot007
Just looking at tire choice, my initial kneejerk reaction was to run the Rivals with 255/18s in the front and 315/18s in the rear. I am going to assume that isn't optimal, but I was just curious if anyone has tried it.
That sounds like it'd be a push monster. C4s are fairly balanced cars to begin with.
Old 02-05-2016, 06:39 AM
  #187  
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Originally Posted by B4CHawk
That sounds like it'd be a push monster. C4s are fairly balanced cars to begin with.
I agree. I run at least a 275 on the front especially if you're using a 9 1/2" wheel.
Old 03-11-2016, 03:29 AM
  #188  
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ltborg, again as many others have said, a huge thanks for your writeup. Managed to secure a car for the B street season and will be building with a great deal of your input in mind. On the strano bar, you list 33mm but on their site they show imperial measures of 1 5/16 and 1 3/8. Rough as I can tell, 33mm translates to 1 5/16, am I mistaken?

Thanks!

Last edited by excelsior; 03-11-2016 at 03:30 AM.
Old 03-11-2016, 12:29 PM
  #189  
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1-5/16" is 33.3mm. Most of the world rounds the numbers. For instance there are no 32mm bars they are really 31.75mm.

The bar you want, and the one that has become the standard is the #8472.
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Old 03-11-2016, 03:55 PM
  #190  
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
1-5/16" is 33.3mm. Most of the world rounds the numbers. For instance there are no 32mm bars they are really 31.75mm.

The bar you want, and the one that has become the standard is the #8472.
Awesome! thanks for the direct reply! I had thought to mail you guys but wasn't sure how to reference ltborg. will be ordering today then
Old 04-26-2016, 10:03 AM
  #191  
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After a couple local events, it's become obvious that I need to do something with the alignment. When running 1/8" toe out front and 1/8" toe in the rear, do you drive on the street with that, or adjust at the event?
Old 04-26-2016, 10:28 AM
  #192  
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Originally Posted by sureshot007
After a couple local events, it's become obvious that I need to do something with the alignment. When running 1/8" toe out front and 1/8" toe in the rear, do you drive on the street with that, or adjust at the event?
I wouldn't worry about those settings on the street. Those settings are not that aggressive for grocery getting. I ran a 1/4" out/in with about a degree of neg in the front and about a degree and 1/2 neg on the rear with my Ruby for many years with both BFG 230s and grocery getter tires for many years without any problems.
Old 05-17-2016, 08:51 PM
  #193  
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Originally Posted by Nokones
I wouldn't worry about those settings on the street. Those settings are not that aggressive for grocery getting. I ran a 1/4" out/in with about a degree of neg in the front and about a degree and 1/2 neg on the rear with my Ruby for many years with both BFG 230s and grocery getter tires for many years without any problems.
so heres the 411 on that...I would beg to differ. Here's why:

I bought tires (Bridgestone RE71R) for my C5 within the first couple weeks I owned it, purchased back in February. The car had 32000 miles on it (yes, original miles) and was running the stock run-flats at the time.

Since then, it has gone up to around 34500. This has been mostly from a trip to SoCal and back, and a trip from Santa clara to Crows Landing and back.

I had the alignment adjusted 3 weeks ago for the Crows Landing ProSolo this past April. The car has 1/8 toe in on the back, the front has neutral toe.

At the event, the car had a total of 28 runs between both of the 30 second courses, myself and a co-driver, with 2 of those being challenge runs. I just got back from a regional Southern California event on the 15th of May where the car ran 12 times on a ~50 second course.

These tires now are on their wear bars.



Take that for what you will, but I would STRONGLY suggest either adjusting the night before an event and leaving the stock settings for the street, or getting an extra set of wheels for your 'good' tires. Something else to consider is the car is very twitchy with the front splayed out like that. I do need a good corner weighting on the car (had it checked, rear is pretty off from changing the ride height) which is my next step after getting new tires for it again. Will likely dial back the toe in the rear and add a pinch more toe in back on the front. Getting the caster/camber settings correct per Lane's original posts will do far more IMO than messing with the toe alignment and learning driving theory. Thats about the point I'm at now after completing the build process.

my .02¢

Last edited by excelsior; 05-17-2016 at 08:58 PM.
Old 05-18-2016, 09:14 AM
  #194  
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Originally Posted by excelsior
so heres the 411 on that...I would beg to differ. Here's why:

I bought tires (Bridgestone RE71R) for my C5 within the first couple weeks I owned it, purchased back in February. The car had 32000 miles on it (yes, original miles) and was running the stock run-flats at the time.

Since then, it has gone up to around 34500. This has been mostly from a trip to SoCal and back, and a trip from Santa clara to Crows Landing and back.

I had the alignment adjusted 3 weeks ago for the Crows Landing ProSolo this past April. The car has 1/8 toe in on the back, the front has neutral toe.

At the event, the car had a total of 28 runs between both of the 30 second courses, myself and a co-driver, with 2 of those being challenge runs. I just got back from a regional Southern California event on the 15th of May where the car ran 12 times on a ~50 second course.

These tires now are on their wear bars.



Take that for what you will, but I would STRONGLY suggest either adjusting the night before an event and leaving the stock settings for the street, or getting an extra set of wheels for your 'good' tires. Something else to consider is the car is very twitchy with the front splayed out like that. I do need a good corner weighting on the car (had it checked, rear is pretty off from changing the ride height) which is my next step after getting new tires for it again. Will likely dial back the toe in the rear and add a pinch more toe in back on the front. Getting the caster/camber settings correct per Lane's original posts will do far more IMO than messing with the toe alignment and learning driving theory. Thats about the point I'm at now after completing the build process.

my .02¢
FYI, Crows is notoriously hard on tires.
Old 05-18-2016, 09:30 AM
  #195  
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Wasn't it the Crows site last year that got everyone talking about how RE71's wear out in 1 day when the rest of the Country gets months of use out of the same tires?
Old 05-18-2016, 10:53 AM
  #196  
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Originally Posted by brenb
FYI, Crows is notoriously hard on tires.
The surface at Crows Landing has a lot of grip. If your car is setup properly and you are a smooth driver you will not have a lot of wear. If you are sliding your tires you will have excess wear. If you are sliding the tires, maybe the car setup and/or the driving style need some adjustment.

You may want to talk to Chris *** or Chet and ask them if they had any problems with excessive tire wear with their Bridgestones. Chris had three drivers in his Mustang and Chet made a gazillion runs on the practice course. My guess is they did not experience any excessive wear with their Bridgestones.
Old 05-19-2016, 12:15 AM
  #197  
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Yeah, I run my race alignment all the time. ALL the time, even on a week long autocross/driving trip from Bowling Green KY to Charlotte NC and back, on the same set of tires.

Crows is VERY hard on tires.



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