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Oil cooler thermostat & cooler for C6Z road course discussion

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Old 11-06-2015, 07:25 PM
  #141  
blkbrd69
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Check Improved websight or give them a call, they are a very knowledgeable nice group of guys.

My understanding is all but 10% is bypassed when cold, then opens to only 10% bypassed when hot.

Bypass is by temperature not delta P like a C6Z. The differential pressure bypass is due to the limited size of the stock C6Z lines.
Old 11-07-2015, 02:09 AM
  #142  
chetly
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Originally Posted by blkbrd69
Check Improved websight or give them a call, they are a very knowledgeable nice group of guys.

My understanding is all but 10% is bypassed when cold, then opens to only 10% bypassed when hot.

Bypass is by temperature not delta P like a C6Z. The differential pressure bypass is due to the limited size of the stock C6Z lines.
Thank you sir.
Old 02-27-2016, 11:40 PM
  #143  
R_W
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Hypothetical question here.

We get some overwhelmingly hot summer days down here in Texas. I'm wondering if I could add the OEM C6Z oil cooler in conjunction with the upgraded Setrab cooler, separated by a 212* thermostat from Improved, placed after the Serab as a bottom-feeder using a vented steel plate to scoop air in as well as act as a rock guard similar to this:



In theory, I think it would work. It may suffer some pressure loss, which is not ideal, but can be countered with a more potent pump from Improved as well. Would this work, or would it simply be easier to just go with a larger cooler and sell off the OEM pieces? I'm not planning anything in particular, I'm merely spitballing ideas just to provoke thought and conversation on the subject.
Old 02-27-2016, 11:57 PM
  #144  
Apocolipse
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Just take the hood off and giver. There is a point when I understand form over function and all that but please don't put that on your car.

Originally Posted by R_W
Hypothetical question here.

We get some overwhelmingly hot summer days down here in Texas. I'm wondering if I could add the OEM C6Z oil cooler in conjunction with the upgraded Setrab cooler, separated by a 212* thermostat from Improved, placed after the Serab as a bottom-feeder using a vented steel plate to scoop air in as well as act as a rock guard similar to this:



In theory, I think it would work. It may suffer some pressure loss, which is not ideal, but can be countered with a more potent pump from Improved as well. Would this work, or would it simply be easier to just go with a larger cooler and sell off the OEM pieces? I'm not planning anything in particular, I'm merely spitballing ideas just to provoke thought and conversation on the subject.
Old 01-31-2017, 11:07 AM
  #145  
blkbrd69
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Looks like Improved Racing just put out a nice kit.
The brackets look amazingly like Johns prototypes in post #86

https://www.improvedracing.com/oil-c...kit-p-768.html
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Old 01-31-2017, 07:21 PM
  #146  
Mordeth
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I may check out this new kit from IR.
Old 06-04-2017, 10:05 PM
  #147  
STANG KILLA SS
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so the question is thermostat or no thermostat?

and if so 180* or 212* thermostat

texas car, 75% track only car.
Old 06-04-2017, 11:21 PM
  #148  
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They aren't expensive, I'd try the 180 first.
Old 06-05-2017, 10:46 AM
  #149  
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Originally Posted by mikeCsix
They aren't expensive, I'd try the 180 first.
the kit is $1000 so id like to get it right the first time
http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-co...kit-p-768.html

and the thermostats are $200 a pop plus throwing away the $200 one that comes with the kit if i get it wrong.
http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-co...nes-p-209.html

Improved racing says:
Options
  • 180°F Thermostat - Recommended for street use and occasional track use. Recommended for wet sump vehicles.
  • 212°F Thermostat - Recommended for race cars that run a higher viscosity oil and must maintain higher minimum oil temperatures. Recommended for dry sump vehicles (Z06 models and Grand Sport Coupes with manual transmissions).
im in a C6Z with dry sump, and its a 75% texas track car, but i only run 5w-40

Last edited by STANG KILLA SS; 06-05-2017 at 10:46 AM.
Old 06-05-2017, 11:01 AM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by STANG KILLA SS
the kit is $1000 so id like to get it right the first time
http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-co...kit-p-768.html

and the thermostats are $200 a pop plus throwing away the $200 one that comes with the kit if i get it wrong.
http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-co...nes-p-209.html

Improved racing says:
Options
  • 180°F Thermostat - Recommended for street use and occasional track use. Recommended for wet sump vehicles.
  • 212°F Thermostat - Recommended for race cars that run a higher viscosity oil and must maintain higher minimum oil temperatures. Recommended for dry sump vehicles (Z06 models and Grand Sport Coupes with manual transmissions).
im in a C6Z with dry sump, and its a 75% texas track car, but i only run 5w-40
In your case I would probably run the 212F. If you do change your mind, we can sell you a 180F rebuild kit for about $10 and you can take the thermostat apart and swap out the actuator element.

Last edited by ImprovedRacing; 06-05-2017 at 11:02 AM.
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Old 06-05-2017, 11:34 AM
  #151  
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Thank you for posting improved. Do you offer a kit that includes thermo and lines while retaining stock z cooler?
Old 06-05-2017, 12:00 PM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by Apocolipse
Thank you for posting improved. Do you offer a kit that includes thermo and lines while retaining stock z cooler?
Yes we do. You can see that kit here: http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-co...ade-p-767.html

We are also going to be adding the option of using our new thermostat, EGM-114. Depending on your headers, this adapter might provide better clearance. The return line enters the adapter on the bottom instead of the top.

Just FYI everyone, Setrab has the coolers we use for the complete kit on backorder, but we should be getting more in soon.
Old 06-05-2017, 01:46 PM
  #153  
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is the date on your website fairly accurate? im interested in the complete kit.

when the coolers and kit come back in stock is that when you will be adding the EGM114 option? or is it further down the road?
Old 06-05-2017, 02:38 PM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by STANG KILLA SS
is the date on your website fairly accurate? im interested in the complete kit.

when the coolers and kit come back in stock is that when you will be adding the EGM114 option? or is it further down the road?
Yes the website is an estimate based on what we were told by Setrab.

We haven't quite decided how we will deal with adding the option. We don't want to confuse customers too much with too many options. But the reality is the EGM-112 will work best for some headers and setups and EGM-114 will work better for others. We were considering offering only EGM-114 but we recently had a customer tell us it didn't work for him but EGM-112 did.

For the time being, if you decide you want to use EGM-114, just let us know in the order comments and we will adjust your kit. You can also call or email to order.
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Old 06-05-2017, 02:52 PM
  #155  
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thank you for you activity/responses in this thread.
ill snap some pics of above my filter and get with you. im running texas speed headers

Thanks

Last edited by STANG KILLA SS; 06-05-2017 at 02:58 PM.
Old 06-05-2017, 02:53 PM
  #156  
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Originally Posted by STANG KILLA SS

Improved racing says:
Options
  • 180°F Thermostat - Recommended for street use and occasional track use. Recommended for wet sump vehicles.
  • 212°F Thermostat - Recommended for race cars that run a higher viscosity oil and must maintain higher minimum oil temperatures. Recommended for dry sump vehicles (Z06 models and Grand Sport Coupes with manual transmissions).
im in a C6Z with dry sump, and its a 75% texas track car, but i only run 5w-40

Originally Posted by ImprovedRacing
In your case I would probably run the 212F. If you do change your mind, we can sell you a 180F rebuild kit for about $10 and you can take the thermostat apart and swap out the actuator element.
Improved Racing,

Can you provide some insight as to why the dry sump cars ( I own a 2013 GS) are better with the 212F thermostat? My car does double duty between street/track but I run stock Mobil 5W-30 so I'm wondering where do I sit.
Old 06-05-2017, 04:17 PM
  #157  
R_W
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Originally Posted by truth.b
Improved Racing,

Can you provide some insight as to why the dry sump cars ( I own a 2013 GS) are better with the 212F thermostat? My car does double duty between street/track but I run stock Mobil 5W-30 so I'm wondering where do I sit.
This makes me wonder as well, as I drive my vette is pretty much a "once-a-week + track weekends a few times a year" GS (dry sump), and I went with the 180* thermostat...

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Old 06-06-2017, 01:52 PM
  #158  
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Originally Posted by R_W
This makes me wonder as well, as I drive my vette is pretty much a "once-a-week + track weekends a few times a year" GS (dry sump), and I went with the 180* thermostat...
The dry sump setup runs cooler on the street because the oil is stored away from the engine and is allowed to cool more in the tank. Since the factory temp sensor in located in the bottom of the tank, it's measuring pretty much the lowest temp in the system during warm up. Some people complain that their temp is too low and isn't reaching the thermostat temp. But in reality the oil gets warmed up a bit again by the time it reaches the thermostat. If you measure the temperature at the thermostat, you'll get a higher temp.

Once the oil is up to temp the engine is under heavy load, and the cooler is getting full oil flow, the lowest temp in the system will likely be the temp after the cooler and not the tank.

So you just have to take into account where your oil temp is measured when you check your temps.

Really, both thermostat temps are perfectly fine and both are safe operating temps for the oil. It's more down to personal preference and what oil viscosity you usually run. But if you have the 180F thermostat, with dry sump on the street you might see your oil stabilize at only 160F because that might be the temp in the tank while the temp at the thermostat is at 180F.

Hope that made sense, lol. It can be a little confusing. Bottom line: both thermostat temps are perfectly fine.
Old 06-06-2017, 04:25 PM
  #159  
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Thought I'd share my set up to add to the data base in this thread.
I have a 09 C6Z. I lost the stock engine and replaced it with a 595 whp engine. I added an a Camaro hood vent, I wrapped the headers I installed a Katech red oil pump, and oil line adapter 10 AN. Plumbed it to a fairly large Fluidyne two pass cooler I think it is 18x12. I added a dewitts radiator with the stock location trans cooler. I deleted the Ac and removed the condenser. The stock setup was VIR numbers. The current setup is Daytona numbers. I expect a little warmer oil at VIR but I don't expect it to get above 250. I am very pleased with the results.
Before
09 C6Z Stock engine
Oil 5w30 mobil 1
Oil temp 275 on track, oil pressure 33-36 on track maybe 18 idling in the pits after the run

After the new set up
Oil is 5w40 Mobil 1
Oil temps 230-235 45-47 psi, 35 Idling in pits after a run

Last edited by rabrooks; 06-06-2017 at 04:30 PM.
Old 06-06-2017, 04:29 PM
  #160  
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Originally Posted by rabrooks
Thought I'd share my set up to add to the data base in this thread.
I have a 09 C6Z. I lost the stock engine and replaced it with a 595 whp engine. I added an a Camaro hood vent, I wrapped the headers I installed a Katech red oil pump, and oil line adapter 10 AN. Plumbed it to a fairly large Fluidyne two pass cooler I think it is 18x12. I added a dewitts radiator with the stock location trans cooler. The stock setup was VIR numbers. The current setup is Daytona numbers. I expect a little warmer oil at VIR but I don't expect it to get above 250. I am very pleased with the results.
Before
09 C6Z Stock engine
Oil 5w30 mobil 1
Oil temp 275 on track, oil pressure 33-36 on track maybe 18 idling in the pits after the run

After the new set up
Oil is 5w40 Mobil 1
Oil temps 230-235 45-47 psi, 35 Idling in pits after a run
PS added 160 tstat coolant temp never above 215


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