Trailer suggestions...
12-08-2014, 08:08 PM
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Trailer suggestions...
I apologize if this has been beaten to death, but I'm looking for a trailer to haul my C6 Z06 (and my other race/track cars) to track events.
I've been borrowing a friend's carson 16' trailer but it's really not meant for a car the size of the C6Z. It nearly hangs out to the ends of the trailer and leaves less than an inch on either side of the rear tire to the rails of the trailer. Futhermore, even with creative ramp solutions, the front splitter and air dam on the car are completely destroyed. I'm having some aero work done so I'm not so much concerned about previous damage, but rather need a solution to prevent future damage.
My tow vehicle (for now) is a 2006 Volkswagen Touareg V8, rated for 7700 lbs. The steel trailer I use now is about 1800 lbs.
I'm looking for an open deck trailer long and wide enough -- and with long enough ramps -- to make loading the trailer easy enough to do it solo without re-aligning the car 100 times.
Ideally, there would be enough space up front for a tool box and a wheel/tire rack. I generally bring an extra set of wheels/tires to track days, and two spare sets for the (non-Corvette) race cars. I would also like to wheel up a fully stocked tool cart for race weekends.
I'm open to the idea of an aluminum enclosed trailer as well, though don't know how well the wide C6Z works in even the 8.5' wide enclosed trailers.
Budget is around $10k.
tl;dr - recommend a trailer that weighs under 2500 lbs, costs less than $10k, can carry tools and tires, and that I can load the C6Z up and down without destroying it.
I've been borrowing a friend's carson 16' trailer but it's really not meant for a car the size of the C6Z. It nearly hangs out to the ends of the trailer and leaves less than an inch on either side of the rear tire to the rails of the trailer. Futhermore, even with creative ramp solutions, the front splitter and air dam on the car are completely destroyed. I'm having some aero work done so I'm not so much concerned about previous damage, but rather need a solution to prevent future damage.
My tow vehicle (for now) is a 2006 Volkswagen Touareg V8, rated for 7700 lbs. The steel trailer I use now is about 1800 lbs.
I'm looking for an open deck trailer long and wide enough -- and with long enough ramps -- to make loading the trailer easy enough to do it solo without re-aligning the car 100 times.
Ideally, there would be enough space up front for a tool box and a wheel/tire rack. I generally bring an extra set of wheels/tires to track days, and two spare sets for the (non-Corvette) race cars. I would also like to wheel up a fully stocked tool cart for race weekends.
I'm open to the idea of an aluminum enclosed trailer as well, though don't know how well the wide C6Z works in even the 8.5' wide enclosed trailers.
Budget is around $10k.
tl;dr - recommend a trailer that weighs under 2500 lbs, costs less than $10k, can carry tools and tires, and that I can load the C6Z up and down without destroying it.
12-08-2014, 08:43 PM
#2
Racer
I have a Z06 race car (not street legal) that I transport in a 20' Neo v-nose enclosed aluminum trailer. I went enclosed because it protects the car in transport and allows me to leave it at my mechanics with less risk of theft or vandalism. Loaded up, it weighs around 7000lb (2750 for the trailer, 2950 for the car and 1000lb's in parts, tires, tools, gas, etc.). I tow that with a 2013 VW Touareg TDI. My friends have the same trailer and tow theirs with a BMW X5M and a GMC Yukon 5.3L.
Here's a link for the trailer manufacturer http://www.neotrailers.com.
With a Touareg, don't try to tow a steel enclosed or non v-nose. Also, get a good weight distributing hitch and a good brake controller.
The trailer cost me just over $10k new with winch. I have done two seasons with it and had no problems.
Here's a link for the trailer manufacturer http://www.neotrailers.com.
With a Touareg, don't try to tow a steel enclosed or non v-nose. Also, get a good weight distributing hitch and a good brake controller.
The trailer cost me just over $10k new with winch. I have done two seasons with it and had no problems.
12-08-2014, 08:46 PM
#3
Race Director
Member Since: Oct 2000
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I picked up an aluminum enclosed 8.5 X 24 this past summer. C5 fits in just fine and it's wider than a C6. Don't get just any aluminum trailer as there are horror stories out there. Personally, I found my featherlite at almost 1/2 price of new and it is only 7 yrs. old. So, I figure it has practically realized most all of the depreciation. It has a V nose and pulls easily and economically. 
12-09-2014, 01:40 AM
#4
Pro
I have a Quikload trailer and I love it. No ramps to deal with easy on/off with no scraping. I tow it with my 2014 SRT jeep grand Cherokee with no issues what so ever.
12-09-2014, 10:27 AM
#5
Team Owner
The first decision you should make is open vs closed trailers. With the additional items you are carrying, I would think theft may be an issue to consider. An enclosed trailer will provide some level of security.
An open trailer provides ease of loading as most trailers will offer a removable left-side fender so you can open the car door to get out. Enclosed trailers have a longer loading ramp (the rear door) and ther are extension ramps available that will lower the ramp angle.
Enclosed trailers are limited in interior width although some makers offer a left side door that can be opened. Otherwise it's the NASCAR style of getting out of the car.
What you also need to do is to add up the weights of everything that will be loaded on the trailer; car, tires, tools, whatever. Match that against the carrying capacity of trailers you are interested in.
Then add up the weights of everything that will go into the tow vehicle. You, your buddies, wife and/or girlfriend, the kids, the dog, luggage, coolers, lunch and eveything else. Add that weight and the total weight of the trailer to find the Gross Combination Weight Rating or GCWR for the tow vehicle (it will be in the Owner's Manual) as configured. There should also be a table for max trailer weight.
Sorry to rain on your parade, but I don't think the VW will work out as a tow vehicle for you. It's a good idea to not exceed 80% of the GCWR. Brakes will be another issue as will the wheelbase. If you go with an enclosed trailer, rear visibility will be another problem; are there suitable towing mirrors that can be used? Is there an available trailer brake controller that can be added to the SUV?
I suggest yo look for a good pickup for towing. A half-ton should work for an open trailer if the towed weight doesn't go much over 6000lbs. An enclosed trailer with a towing load of 7000 lbs or more, then consider a 3/4 ton pickup. Trucks have stiffer frames, bigger brakes, hauling capacity, and many will have an LT truck tire as opposed to P-Metric passenger car types.
I started out with an 18' open trailer pulled by my '99 Silverado and after a few years I bought a 20' enclosed trailer. I'm pulling that with an '08 Silverado with the 6.0 motor.
I like the security of the enclosed trailer and if you ever do HPDE's that are more than a day's drive, the enclosed trailer can be used as a camper.
An open trailer provides ease of loading as most trailers will offer a removable left-side fender so you can open the car door to get out. Enclosed trailers have a longer loading ramp (the rear door) and ther are extension ramps available that will lower the ramp angle.
Enclosed trailers are limited in interior width although some makers offer a left side door that can be opened. Otherwise it's the NASCAR style of getting out of the car.
What you also need to do is to add up the weights of everything that will be loaded on the trailer; car, tires, tools, whatever. Match that against the carrying capacity of trailers you are interested in.
Then add up the weights of everything that will go into the tow vehicle. You, your buddies, wife and/or girlfriend, the kids, the dog, luggage, coolers, lunch and eveything else. Add that weight and the total weight of the trailer to find the Gross Combination Weight Rating or GCWR for the tow vehicle (it will be in the Owner's Manual) as configured. There should also be a table for max trailer weight.
Sorry to rain on your parade, but I don't think the VW will work out as a tow vehicle for you. It's a good idea to not exceed 80% of the GCWR. Brakes will be another issue as will the wheelbase. If you go with an enclosed trailer, rear visibility will be another problem; are there suitable towing mirrors that can be used? Is there an available trailer brake controller that can be added to the SUV?
I suggest yo look for a good pickup for towing. A half-ton should work for an open trailer if the towed weight doesn't go much over 6000lbs. An enclosed trailer with a towing load of 7000 lbs or more, then consider a 3/4 ton pickup. Trucks have stiffer frames, bigger brakes, hauling capacity, and many will have an LT truck tire as opposed to P-Metric passenger car types.
I started out with an 18' open trailer pulled by my '99 Silverado and after a few years I bought a 20' enclosed trailer. I'm pulling that with an '08 Silverado with the 6.0 motor.
I like the security of the enclosed trailer and if you ever do HPDE's that are more than a day's drive, the enclosed trailer can be used as a camper.
12-09-2014, 11:17 AM
#6
Pro
I have to agree with the above post, DO NOT try to tow an enclosed trailer with your VW. Open trailer will work, but the enclosed will both add weight and air resistance that will make the drive a white knuckle experience. As for open trailers either get the quikload or make sure the fender comes off.
Also look into the wireless progressive brake controllers. This is what I use http://www.tekonsha.com/products/bra...RB508pViEKmVBf
nothing is installed in my truck, just plug the hand held into the lighter and the rest is part of the trailer. and it works great
http://www.kwikload.com/
Also look into the wireless progressive brake controllers. This is what I use http://www.tekonsha.com/products/bra...RB508pViEKmVBf
nothing is installed in my truck, just plug the hand held into the lighter and the rest is part of the trailer. and it works great
http://www.kwikload.com/
12-09-2014, 11:31 AM
#7
Advanced
Thread Starter
To be clear...
Folks, while I appreciate the concern, I'm not asking for tow vehicle suggestions. I've towed nearly 10,000 miles in the Touareg and it's been a sublime tow vehicle; much better than the pickups I have borrowed to tow in the past. I have a Tekonsha Prodigy 3 brake controller and the factory Class IV receiver. The brakes are massive, it's 4WD, and it's a porker. Long trailers are a concern due to its 112" wheelbase, but I'm comfortable towing anything up to 20' and 6000+ lbs (it's rated to 7716 lbs). Many on the Touareg forums are towing enclosed trailers, Airstreams, and the like. I realize we're on a Chevy forum but let's keep an open mind. (Heck, there's another Touareg and a Grand Cherokee already cited as tow vehicles in this thread!)
To those of you who have made specific trailer recommendations based on my criteria, thank you! I'll look into the Neo and Quickload trailers. Featherlite is already on my radar so thanks for the affirmation!
To those of you who have made specific trailer recommendations based on my criteria, thank you! I'll look into the Neo and Quickload trailers. Featherlite is already on my radar so thanks for the affirmation!
Last edited by Tim B in SD; 12-09-2014 at 12:02 PM.
12-09-2014, 05:43 PM
#8
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I have been towing my Vettes on an 16 ft wood bed open trailer since 1993. The trailer is the maximum width you can purchase and the Z06 fits on it with about an inch to spare on each side. The bed has a beaver tail which drops the level of the bed by about 2.5 inches. I have 10 ft ramps that worked fine with my C4 but the chin spoiler on the Z does rub on the ramps to some degree. Lengthwise the car fits fine on the trailer. The front bumper sits about a foot behind the front of the bed and the rear bumper is just a little short of the rear of the trailer. I have a tire rack at the front that comes back over the bed and a wind deflector under it that protects the car from tow vehicle dirt and debris. Total weight of the car (w full tank of gas), trailer and 4 tires/wheels in the tire rack comes in right around 5500 lbs. If I don't have anything in the tire rack I can move the car forward a couple of inches to balance the trailer better. The trailer has 4 wheel brakes and with the car on the trailer they work just fine. Without a car I pretty much turn them off since the tires lock up too quickly.
The 10 ft ramps are made from 2 6 ft sections and 2 4 ft sections with about an 8 inch upright welded to each of the 4 footers. The 6 ft ramps bridge from the high end of the 4 ft ramps to the end of the trailer. If you have an issue clearing ramps you can then use this setup to give you a two slope ramp so you can start with a very low slope and then change to a higher slope once the car starts up the ramps.
It is simple to determine what the slopes of the two sections of the ramps should be. First, put the car on a level flat surface and measure from the center of the tire to the front of your spoiler. Then measure from the spoiler to the ground. Once you know that you can determine the slope at the beginning of the ramp. Basically, you are determining how low the ramp has to be so many feet forward of the center of the tire. Once the tire starts rolling up the ramp the front spoiler starts going up in an arc and from there you can determine how long the first ramp has to be and how high the one end can get. Lay it out on a sheet of paper and do some quick checks and then you can take the plans to a builder.
When we put my ramps together the welder made the short ones 1 inch too high and that affected the air dam on my 86. However, it wasn't a big deal so I left it. It didn't bother my two C5s much either since their air dams only rubbed a little bit and they were designed for it. However, the C6Z front spoiler hits the ramps right where the two sections join. If the short section was an inch shorter I believe it would clear.
The welder who built the ramps added storage under the rear of the trailer so all 4 pieces are tucked under it with just the upright ends of the short ramps sticking up behind the car.
Bill
The 10 ft ramps are made from 2 6 ft sections and 2 4 ft sections with about an 8 inch upright welded to each of the 4 footers. The 6 ft ramps bridge from the high end of the 4 ft ramps to the end of the trailer. If you have an issue clearing ramps you can then use this setup to give you a two slope ramp so you can start with a very low slope and then change to a higher slope once the car starts up the ramps.
It is simple to determine what the slopes of the two sections of the ramps should be. First, put the car on a level flat surface and measure from the center of the tire to the front of your spoiler. Then measure from the spoiler to the ground. Once you know that you can determine the slope at the beginning of the ramp. Basically, you are determining how low the ramp has to be so many feet forward of the center of the tire. Once the tire starts rolling up the ramp the front spoiler starts going up in an arc and from there you can determine how long the first ramp has to be and how high the one end can get. Lay it out on a sheet of paper and do some quick checks and then you can take the plans to a builder.
When we put my ramps together the welder made the short ones 1 inch too high and that affected the air dam on my 86. However, it wasn't a big deal so I left it. It didn't bother my two C5s much either since their air dams only rubbed a little bit and they were designed for it. However, the C6Z front spoiler hits the ramps right where the two sections join. If the short section was an inch shorter I believe it would clear.
The welder who built the ramps added storage under the rear of the trailer so all 4 pieces are tucked under it with just the upright ends of the short ramps sticking up behind the car.
Bill
12-09-2014, 08:11 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
Follow up
So for an open deck trailer, and to allow room for tool boxes at the front (on the deck) it sounds like 18 ft would be the minimum deck length. What advantages, if any, would come with an even longer deck?
Given the OP's desire for a tire rack, are there any other options for placement of tool boxes that would not require a correspondingly longer deck?
Given the OP's desire for a tire rack, are there any other options for placement of tool boxes that would not require a correspondingly longer deck?
12-09-2014, 10:57 PM
#10
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SLAMMER
12-10-2014, 07:35 AM
#11
Safety Car
Any day you don't have to mess with ramps is a good day.
Richard
Richard
12-10-2014, 09:39 AM
#12
Burning Brakes
Can the quick Quickload trailer accommodate a tire rack, and if so, does it mount to the tilting deck, or stay horizontal with the hitch (I'm having trouble picturing that)?
12-10-2014, 11:05 AM
#13
Pro
Yes I have seen one here on forums for sale with a rack it is attached to the bed and tilts with it. I am adding a toolbox in the front of mine that will house a trailer winch and battery. I just want to be able to get the car home if something bad happens at an event
12-10-2014, 04:51 PM
#14
Melting Slicks
I bought a Corvette vintage race car and talked the owner into selling me his Featherlite open trailer. Best trailer I have ever owned. Tows so easy you tend to forget it is behind you. I installed a small tool box on the front and a small electric winch.
12-10-2014, 06:03 PM
#15
Pro
Try to do a search. I recall a thread where people with the quick load added tire racks and because of the additional weight up front it was tricky getting the bed to tilt, especially if there were tires on it. I believe ECS may have given some comments on how they made theirs work.
12-11-2014, 08:59 PM
#17
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Aluma tilt bed trailer...light and will easily fit in your budget. Picture of my 8220HD with tire rack and nose guard I made. http://www.alumaklm.com/tandem-axle-...-trailers.html 
I made my rack to tilt with the trailer...problem is all that tire weight so I use my floor jack to support or lift in when tire are loaded on...I couldn't find my pics of it tilted. The tilt bed is 20' with 2 ' of non-tilt portion. a little long with 22' but I can use for other stuff.
Doors clear by taking off fender. When tilted it was still a little steep so I ended up buying race ramps.
I made my rack to tilt with the trailer...problem is all that tire weight so I use my floor jack to support or lift in when tire are loaded on...I couldn't find my pics of it tilted. The tilt bed is 20' with 2 ' of non-tilt portion. a little long with 22' but I can use for other stuff.
Doors clear by taking off fender. When tilted it was still a little steep so I ended up buying race ramps.
Last edited by BlueAngelSAE; 12-11-2014 at 09:18 PM.
12-11-2014, 09:23 PM
#18
Instructor
I have a 18 foot steel deck ordered (16' flat with 2' beaver tail) I am wanting to order some tie downs, are 8' straps long enough to use crossed with T-hooks in the frame rails?
12-11-2014, 09:27 PM
#19
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I bought mine long and cut them down to the size I wanted. (burnt cut end to keep from fraying.) I think 8' might be tight, but then again I have extra trailer and depends on your tie down locations on the trailer.
12-11-2014, 09:37 PM
#20
Instructor