lbk16

I am in the process of rebuilding my torque tube. The car is used solely for HPDE and not driven on the street. I am trying to decide whether to go with solid (aluminum) couplers or stick with the stock rubber variety. Thoughts? Thanks in advance!

cwikstro

I am doing mine soon also and after seeing my nephew go through a copuple sets in his FRC, he researeched and the german made stock ones are what will last the longest in track duty use. Most of the other types are best for drag use only. I hope this helps you! I also was told to avoid the knock off ones, get the german made that BMW's use too.

lbk16

Thanks. Makes sense to me.

Scooter70

German parts for his Vette?? You just made lbk's day.

geerookie

The difference between a '97 - '00 TT and the '01 and newer is the size of the driveshaft and the couplers.
'97 - '00 - 53mm driveshaft and 10mm bolts in the couplers
'01 and newer - 63mm driveshaft and 12mm bolts in coupler
The newer couplers are also stronger.
Here's all the parts needed. The bearings and slinger ring are the same in both.

I rebuilt mine a few times over the years. I replaced all the bearings and both couplers. I used factory replacements but bought them from BMW because they were cheaper. You need a slinger ring, 3 bearings and 2 couplers. And one Big A$$ pair of C-Clip pliers.

Slinger Ring - GM part number is 12456208 cost $4.42 from http://www.gmpartshouse.com/.
Bearings -

SKF 6007 2RSJEM SINGLE ROW BALL BRGS 1 $25.64
SKF 6008 2RSJEM SINGLE ROW BALL BRGS 2 $29.33
These are the bearing numbers on the original bearings I took out.
NSK 6007 DU need 1
NSK 6008 DU need 2

Drive Shaft Flex Joint part# K1020-31191
Description: 12mm Bolt
110 mm diameter : Uses (6) 12 x 1.5 x 58 bolt.
Trans Type: 5-Speed Vehicle: 1998 BMW 318ti
Engine - Chassis: M44 : E36

Drive Shaft Flex Joint part# K1020-46069
Description: 10mm Bolt
96 mm diameter : Uses (6) 10 x 50 bolt.
Trans Type: Automatic Vehicle: 1998 BMW 318ti
Engine - Chassis: M44 : E36

You can get a FEBI coupler or the Lemforder which is the OEM.

C6RAPTOR

Call RPM and they can supply, bearings and couplings as well as new bolt kit. I just did my TT . I used the poly coupling on one end, solid aluminum on the other. It all came out great.

JeremyGSU

I'm rebuilding mine now and using the aluminum.

63Corvette

I thought I read a thread by either LGM or Katech where they suggested using solid couplers on one end and flex on the other for cars which are basically street cars which are tracked but not full race cars, and solid on both ends for full race cars?

YYZ06

Double post... Sorry

YYZ06

LOL! So true...

If one was to go with the solid/rubber combo, does it make any difference which one goes where? If I had to guess, I'd say having the rubber coupler up front would be better for driver noise & vibraton. Any other consideratons?

Will having the aluminum coupler cause the rubber coupler to wear faster (require more frequent inspection)?

JerryTX

After having a guibo self destruct, then later a guibo bolt self destruct, separately due to a big bump on track (think full compression and rebound while at max acceleration in 4th gear on slicks), two things I learned:

1. I would never use anything but OEM quality (BMW or GM) Guibos. Top teams use more rigid ones but they also rebuild everything more frequently then the hobbyist. NOTE: Top teams drill inspection holes in their torque tubes right at the couplers just so they can see developing problems.

2. Replace all the bolts every time you are in there. Do not resuse any of them. If I could find ARP replacements I would use them.

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

The W.C. cars (99-07) used OEM rubber couplers at the front and our solid ones at the back along with a carbon shaft.

We went to solid couplers front and rear when we started using the sequential gear boxes in the car, because they shifted so fast it was harder on the rubber couplers.

ratt_finkel

Anthony, what do you recommend for my Pikes Peak setup? I have concerns about rubber couplers when I'm on big slicks and 800whp.

JeremyGSU

I went to solid couplers on my street/track car which is slowly becoming a full track car and I definitely notice a lot more vibration throughout the car as I drive it on track. Took awhile to get used to. Almost feels as though something is wrong at times depending on how much throttle you give it. If I did it again I may have gotten one rubber and one solid.

LateBreak

I know that in theory "you can never be too careful", but is that really necessary? Seems to me that the torque spec was pretty light and with the rubber couplers they aren't really subjected to much shock load even in a race environment. With solid couplers that's a different scenario, but I've never heard of one breaking before...

JerryTX

Personally I'm on a string of bad luck from stuff that shouldn't normally break and does. In my case of bad luck specifically with Guibos, I had one fail on a Saturday and it took two bolts with it. Rebuilt it that night scrounging parts at 3am to have it back together by noon and make a race Sunday. 4 months later one of the "good" reused bolts failed, taking out another coupler and ruining another race weekend, and more importantly requiring another drivetrain drop. The bolts are like $12 from GM. If you are swapping perfectly good looking couplers just because you are in there and being proactive (my new preferred method) than yes maybe you are fine and can get away with re-using the bolts. But if, on the other hand, you are replacing a weakened/damaged/fatigued coupler, I'd absolutely replace the bolts as well. My hard earned two cents.

SouthernSon

Been running solid on both ends for 3 or 4 years now. Big cam, clutch pack, good amount of HP and sticky track tires with no problems. (C5Z) However, I am old enough to know that could change just any day.

rustyguns

after 3 torque tube rebuilds, I learned this the hard way. check your engine mounts! bad or broken engine mounts will make you car eat the rubber quidos in the torque tube.

Yeah I know it doesn't make sense its all bolted together... believe me it does cause this!

In the toque tube I also run a solid in the back and a six shooter in the front, Very good combo, has lasted 3 seasons.. no vibrations

Along with new motor mounts

c6speedjon

What motor mounts? Stock or the Hinson urethane ones? Was also thinking of going with their transmissions mount too

rustyguns

i just use stock motor mounts get em both for 80 bucks they work good when new first ones lasted 15 years LOL