RideZX6R

Just curious if you guys who track heavily are buying the OEM-style x-drilled rotors or just keeping it cheap and buying blanks as you go thru them faster?

If you're going with blanks, noticed and differences in performance?

Thanks

strano@stranoparts.com

The stock rotors are not the answer for track use. No way. Aside from the fact the RF rotor is vaned backwards for use on the corner, they can and do crack around the holes (this is something all drilled rotors do). Note the C7 stuff isn't drilled?

I have a number of options, but for track use I'd recommend slotted over blanks. The slots give an out to the dirt and other crap that floats around so it doesn't get embedded in the pads. I see much less scoring of the rotors when running slotted than blank.

I carry Stoptech, EBC, DBA, Bendix, Wilwood, and PowerStop (but those are drilled and slotted only). I have stock replacements too, but Premium quality ones if you like.

For me, on a serious track day car I'd go DBA 4000's. They even have temp paint on them so you can track your rotor temps. There are also the DBA 2000's which cost a bit less. Materials are a bit different, no temp paint, etc. 4000's run about $365 a pair up front, $350 a pair in the rear. 2000's run $239 pair for both ends.

No, I don't have them on my website, but I DO have them. Just too little time to do all my work everyday (I'm still here @ 7:30 and will be until probably 10 or 11 *sigh*). In fact right now I have no rotors for the Z or GS, which I need to fix.

rocsvette

Dump the drilled ones, they are cosmetic. If they were any good they would be on the C5R, C6R, C7R and all the other pro cars. I use slotted and in HPDE use last me a season.

0Todd TCE

Despite the benefits of the more classic 2pc hat and rotor setups found on many complete BBKs...a lot of folks still take the "disposable rotor" path. And there's nothing wrong with that. In some cases it just makes more sense.

I'd not even consider drilled rotor however for serious track day use unless you carry ample spares. The potential for disaster is too great. Stick with plain or slotted discs and give up the arguable increase in cooling for durability.

KNSBrakes

We keep a few rotors on hand

Bill Dearborn

From a cost standpoint it is hard to beat the stock C6Z drilled rotor. Yes, they crack around the holes and if used hard they only last about 5 days. However, at an average cost of $100 ea. shipped to you it is hard to beat them. I have cracked them from the outer edge all the way to the center of the hub. However, I had AFX/Coleman two piece heavy duty slotted rotors that only went 7 days before cracking. $100/5=$20 per day rotor cost per corner. $300/7=$42/day with the Colemans. Over the last year and a half I have been using some 14 inch Wilwood two piece rotors that I got from Todd. They have 12 track days on them with some serious heat checking. I think I can get another track day out of them but I thought that when I went to the track last October and after two hard days they are still on the car. If I figure 12 days on them that means the cost per day is $300/12=$25/day which is worth doing since I don't need to change rotors at the track as often and can carry fewer spares. The rear Wilwoods have 12 days on them and don't have any heat checking. That is similar to the rear Colemans that I literally wore the slots away until they failed a minimum thickness check with over 20 days on them.

Bill