Torque Tube Rebuild - Bearings and Bushings advice
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Torque Tube Rebuild - Bearings and Bushings advice
I'm guessing this crowd has done this job more than the normal C5-Tech community.
I have my torque tube disassembled and ready to install the bearing and guibo kit from RPM. Is there any need to service the Transmission input shaft bushing that sits inside the prop-shaft yoke? (pic #1) The rubber looks ok to me. There is an organge-ish color grease in there...that ok? The input shaft on the actual transmission looks good with no scaring or gouging.
How does the bearing surface look in pic #2? The discoloration at the bearing position is "smooth". You can't feel any ridges or valleys in those area. The rear-most bearing had a crunchy sound when you rotate it. The front-most "rear" bearing rolled smooth.
The front of the shaft (clutch side) bearing was very "stiff" compared to the rear one. No crunchy sound but did not spin freely.
Car is stock as far as the drivetrain goes.
Advice?
I have my torque tube disassembled and ready to install the bearing and guibo kit from RPM. Is there any need to service the Transmission input shaft bushing that sits inside the prop-shaft yoke? (pic #1) The rubber looks ok to me. There is an organge-ish color grease in there...that ok? The input shaft on the actual transmission looks good with no scaring or gouging.
How does the bearing surface look in pic #2? The discoloration at the bearing position is "smooth". You can't feel any ridges or valleys in those area. The rear-most bearing had a crunchy sound when you rotate it. The front-most "rear" bearing rolled smooth.
The front of the shaft (clutch side) bearing was very "stiff" compared to the rear one. No crunchy sound but did not spin freely.
Car is stock as far as the drivetrain goes.
Advice?
Last edited by tmtraylor; 02-03-2015 at 12:50 PM. Reason: poor grammar and typing skills
#2
Mine looked simmilar, just used a 3m scouring pad and it cleaned right up. It was a fancy pad of some type, my buddy had at his machine shop, was like tan or grey, but felt more or less like one of those green pads to me. Took 10 seconds and the bores were clean.
Bearing still had to be pushed on, it didnt change the clearance or diameter i don't think, and all is fine.
Bearing still had to be pushed on, it didnt change the clearance or diameter i don't think, and all is fine.
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Mine looked simmilar, just used a 3m scouring pad and it cleaned right up. It was a fancy pad of some type, my buddy had at his machine shop, was like tan or grey, but felt more or less like one of those green pads to me. Took 10 seconds and the bores were clean.
Bearing still had to be pushed on, it didnt change the clearance or diameter i don't think, and all is fine.
Bearing still had to be pushed on, it didnt change the clearance or diameter i don't think, and all is fine.
#4
Yeah i just left it in there as mine looked ok. I did cover up everything while mine sat for a few days to not get dust or doghair in the grease in there. Thats all I did with it though.
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks JerryTx...I'm in there because the shaft did not spin freely when I examined while the drive-train is out (having to replace a weeping slave cylinder hydraulic line). I took the Torque Tube apart and two of the bearings had issues. The guibos look brand new, no cracks and the rubber is "supple". Replacing them and the bolts since I'm there and don't want to return anytime soon!
Last edited by tmtraylor; 02-04-2015 at 09:09 AM. Reason: incomplete reply