C6 Z06 Setup Suggestions Needed - AS
02-16-2015, 10:07 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
C6 Z06 Setup Suggestions Needed - AS
I just bought an '07 Z06 that was previously run in SSR. Shocks have been put back to stock as well as the front bar.
I am still a rookie at autocross with just a couple seasons experience. I plan on sticking to AS for 2015 and probably 2016 as I learn the car.
I ordered Koni Sports and a Strano front bar from Sam last Friday - the shocks came today!!!. The bar may be another week or two. Tires in stock sizes will be here tomorrow - the new ZII Star Specs for the front and RE-11's for the rear. NOT IDEAL, but I can only buy what's available NOW and I had to buy something. This combo has to be at least as good as Michelin SS's and the savings will come close to buying another set of wheels....
I registered for Dixie next month which will be my first national event. I need some guidance to get the car close quickly. I have two TnT's before Dixie which will be on a freshly sealed, slick surface. I am also registered for the Evo school on the Friday before the event.
I'll get the new shocks and tires on this week. My biggest concerns are with alignment and shock settings. I am looking for a good starting point for these to make the most of the TnT's and hopefully be at least slightly competitive at Dixie.
The Koni's look like a PITA to adjust, so I really want to get these close out of the gate. From what I've read it seems 2/3 from soft in the front and 1/3 from soft in the rear seems like a good starting point. Is this correct?
On the alignment, I've read setting that all over the place and little specific to autocrossing on 200 TW. Any and all suggestions would be appreciated. I do not care about any "street balanced" alignment. I want the car to setup for autocross - under AS rules.
Our local club has scales readily available. So, the plan is first tires, then shocks, then corner balance, then alignment. I have less than two weeks to get all this knocked out.
Thanks!!!
I am still a rookie at autocross with just a couple seasons experience. I plan on sticking to AS for 2015 and probably 2016 as I learn the car.
I ordered Koni Sports and a Strano front bar from Sam last Friday - the shocks came today!!!. The bar may be another week or two. Tires in stock sizes will be here tomorrow - the new ZII Star Specs for the front and RE-11's for the rear. NOT IDEAL, but I can only buy what's available NOW and I had to buy something. This combo has to be at least as good as Michelin SS's and the savings will come close to buying another set of wheels....
I registered for Dixie next month which will be my first national event. I need some guidance to get the car close quickly. I have two TnT's before Dixie which will be on a freshly sealed, slick surface. I am also registered for the Evo school on the Friday before the event.
I'll get the new shocks and tires on this week. My biggest concerns are with alignment and shock settings. I am looking for a good starting point for these to make the most of the TnT's and hopefully be at least slightly competitive at Dixie.
The Koni's look like a PITA to adjust, so I really want to get these close out of the gate. From what I've read it seems 2/3 from soft in the front and 1/3 from soft in the rear seems like a good starting point. Is this correct?
On the alignment, I've read setting that all over the place and little specific to autocrossing on 200 TW. Any and all suggestions would be appreciated. I do not care about any "street balanced" alignment. I want the car to setup for autocross - under AS rules.
Our local club has scales readily available. So, the plan is first tires, then shocks, then corner balance, then alignment. I have less than two weeks to get all this knocked out.
Thanks!!!
02-17-2015, 10:28 AM
#2
Racer
I just bought an '07 Z06 that was previously run in SSR. Shocks have been put back to stock as well as the front bar.
I am still a rookie at autocross with just a couple seasons experience. I plan on sticking to AS for 2015 and probably 2016 as I learn the car.
I ordered Koni Sports and a Strano front bar from Sam last Friday - the shocks came today!!!. The bar may be another week or two. Tires in stock sizes will be here tomorrow - the new ZII Star Specs for the front and RE-11's for the rear. NOT IDEAL, but I can only buy what's available NOW and I had to buy something. This combo has to be at least as good as Michelin SS's and the savings will come close to buying another set of wheels....
I registered for Dixie next month which will be my first national event. I need some guidance to get the car close quickly. I have two TnT's before Dixie which will be on a freshly sealed, slick surface. I am also registered for the Evo school on the Friday before the event.
I'll get the new shocks and tires on this week. My biggest concerns are with alignment and shock settings. I am looking for a good starting point for these to make the most of the TnT's and hopefully be at least slightly competitive at Dixie.
The Koni's look like a PITA to adjust, so I really want to get these close out of the gate. From what I've read it seems 2/3 from soft in the front and 1/3 from soft in the rear seems like a good starting point. Is this correct?
On the alignment, I've read setting that all over the place and little specific to autocrossing on 200 TW. Any and all suggestions would be appreciated. I do not care about any "street balanced" alignment. I want the car to setup for autocross - under AS rules.
Our local club has scales readily available. So, the plan is first tires, then shocks, then corner balance, then alignment. I have less than two weeks to get all this knocked out.
Thanks!!!
I am still a rookie at autocross with just a couple seasons experience. I plan on sticking to AS for 2015 and probably 2016 as I learn the car.
I ordered Koni Sports and a Strano front bar from Sam last Friday - the shocks came today!!!. The bar may be another week or two. Tires in stock sizes will be here tomorrow - the new ZII Star Specs for the front and RE-11's for the rear. NOT IDEAL, but I can only buy what's available NOW and I had to buy something. This combo has to be at least as good as Michelin SS's and the savings will come close to buying another set of wheels....
I registered for Dixie next month which will be my first national event. I need some guidance to get the car close quickly. I have two TnT's before Dixie which will be on a freshly sealed, slick surface. I am also registered for the Evo school on the Friday before the event.
I'll get the new shocks and tires on this week. My biggest concerns are with alignment and shock settings. I am looking for a good starting point for these to make the most of the TnT's and hopefully be at least slightly competitive at Dixie.
The Koni's look like a PITA to adjust, so I really want to get these close out of the gate. From what I've read it seems 2/3 from soft in the front and 1/3 from soft in the rear seems like a good starting point. Is this correct?
On the alignment, I've read setting that all over the place and little specific to autocrossing on 200 TW. Any and all suggestions would be appreciated. I do not care about any "street balanced" alignment. I want the car to setup for autocross - under AS rules.
Our local club has scales readily available. So, the plan is first tires, then shocks, then corner balance, then alignment. I have less than two weeks to get all this knocked out.
Thanks!!!
If you haven't already, I'd just hit up Sam for whatever setup he suggests. IIRC, my car is running a setup based off info from him:
Front:
2.2* camber, zero toe (though some prefer a little out), 4 sweeps front soft on the Koni's, Strano front bar
Rear:
1.1" rear camber, 1/8" toe in per side, 3 sweeps from soft on the Koni's.
I'm also on a sub-optimal tire setup with 255/275 Z2 SS's though I didn't think they were bad at the event a couple days ago. It does appear that they can take (and work) at really low pressures so something to keep in mind for your fronts.
Christian
02-17-2015, 09:42 PM
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks Christian and yes cutting it close.
The tires came today and I was surprised with how wide the RE-11 325's are. I don't know how to "official" measurements are taken, but I quick check was over 12.5" to 12.75" of footprint.
Thanks for sharing your alignment. It's pretty close to what I am thinking as a starting point which is -2.2 to -2.4 F and -1.3 to -1.5 R. That may be too much for the rear.
The tires came today and I was surprised with how wide the RE-11 325's are. I don't know how to "official" measurements are taken, but I quick check was over 12.5" to 12.75" of footprint.
Thanks for sharing your alignment. It's pretty close to what I am thinking as a starting point which is -2.2 to -2.4 F and -1.3 to -1.5 R. That may be too much for the rear.
02-18-2015, 12:13 AM
#4
Advanced
Good luck! Awesome car. Brandon was 6th and I was 8th (of 20) at Dixie in 2013 in Super Stock in that car. Sam Strano was 1st. (Brandon was 2nd to Sam in 2014) I drove it one other time at a Blytheville Pro-Solo…. OMG those things haul. I think Brandon had the front camber maxed out (~2.5) and rear at 1.4, which is the same that I run (and all I can get in my C5FRC). I think the car had Koni 3013s on it at that time, set about 2/3rds stiff front and ⅓ stiff rear. I have no idea what the effect of the Koni Sports will be, but Sam can probably tell you what to expect.
So far, I've found that street tires and R-comps the fronts want all the camber you can get. I suppose it is possible that with those wide rear tires they might want less than 1.5, but I doubt it. I also found that with street tires I really needed to move the car toward a push by keeping the rake very low, i.e. basically zero. (more rake = more oversteer… it's a CG vs roll-center effect). It is so easy to apply too much power, hang the tail out and lose time.
edit: I align the front toe to zero for travel, then turn each adjuster 3 flats of toe-out on the front, which produces about 3/16" toe-out. Very easy to do on-site if you take or borrow a jack. I have about 1/8" toe-in rear. I set the ride height down about as low as it will go on the stock bolts adjusting up only as req'd to corner balance.
So far, I've found that street tires and R-comps the fronts want all the camber you can get. I suppose it is possible that with those wide rear tires they might want less than 1.5, but I doubt it. I also found that with street tires I really needed to move the car toward a push by keeping the rake very low, i.e. basically zero. (more rake = more oversteer… it's a CG vs roll-center effect). It is so easy to apply too much power, hang the tail out and lose time.
edit: I align the front toe to zero for travel, then turn each adjuster 3 flats of toe-out on the front, which produces about 3/16" toe-out. Very easy to do on-site if you take or borrow a jack. I have about 1/8" toe-in rear. I set the ride height down about as low as it will go on the stock bolts adjusting up only as req'd to corner balance.
Last edited by edwardo99; 02-18-2015 at 12:33 AM.
02-18-2015, 09:18 AM
#5
Racer
Thanks Christian and yes cutting it close.
The tires came today and I was surprised with how wide the RE-11 325's are. I don't know how to "official" measurements are taken, but I quick check was over 12.5" to 12.75" of footprint.
Thanks for sharing your alignment. It's pretty close to what I am thinking as a starting point which is -2.2 to -2.4 F and -1.3 to -1.5 R. That may be too much for the rear.
The tires came today and I was surprised with how wide the RE-11 325's are. I don't know how to "official" measurements are taken, but I quick check was over 12.5" to 12.75" of footprint.
Thanks for sharing your alignment. It's pretty close to what I am thinking as a starting point which is -2.2 to -2.4 F and -1.3 to -1.5 R. That may be too much for the rear.
Interesting news about the RE-11. Is that measurement sidewall to sidewall or treadwidth?
Those camber #'s are right in the meat of the general suggestions I've received for my car. Generally I've been told in the 2-2.4* range front, and 1-1.4* rear. Seems like most folks run a little toe out up front... given my newness with the car, I haven't bothered with that yet.
02-18-2015, 09:05 PM
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Good luck! Awesome car. Brandon was 6th and I was 8th (of 20) at Dixie in 2013 in Super Stock in that car. Sam Strano was 1st. (Brandon was 2nd to Sam in 2014) I drove it one other time at a Blytheville Pro-Solo…. OMG those things haul. I think Brandon had the front camber maxed out (~2.5) and rear at 1.4, which is the same that I run (and all I can get in my C5FRC). I think the car had Koni 3013s on it at that time, set about 2/3rds stiff front and ⅓ stiff rear. I have no idea what the effect of the Koni Sports will be, but Sam can probably tell you what to expect.
So far, I've found that street tires and R-comps the fronts want all the camber you can get. I suppose it is possible that with those wide rear tires they might want less than 1.5, but I doubt it. I also found that with street tires I really needed to move the car toward a push by keeping the rake very low, i.e. basically zero. (more rake = more oversteer… it's a CG vs roll-center effect). It is so easy to apply too much power, hang the tail out and lose time.
edit: I align the front toe to zero for travel, then turn each adjuster 3 flats of toe-out on the front, which produces about 3/16" toe-out. Very easy to do on-site if you take or borrow a jack. I have about 1/8" toe-in rear. I set the ride height down about as low as it will go on the stock bolts adjusting up only as req'd to corner balance.
So far, I've found that street tires and R-comps the fronts want all the camber you can get. I suppose it is possible that with those wide rear tires they might want less than 1.5, but I doubt it. I also found that with street tires I really needed to move the car toward a push by keeping the rake very low, i.e. basically zero. (more rake = more oversteer… it's a CG vs roll-center effect). It is so easy to apply too much power, hang the tail out and lose time.
edit: I align the front toe to zero for travel, then turn each adjuster 3 flats of toe-out on the front, which produces about 3/16" toe-out. Very easy to do on-site if you take or borrow a jack. I have about 1/8" toe-in rear. I set the ride height down about as low as it will go on the stock bolts adjusting up only as req'd to corner balance.
Great suggestion on rake, makes sense. IF I do any track days it'll be at Barber or TGPR, so no crazy speeds.
Happy to share what little I've picked up from the smarter guys.
Interesting news about the RE-11. Is that measurement sidewall to sidewall or treadwidth?
Those camber #'s are right in the meat of the general suggestions I've received for my car. Generally I've been told in the 2-2.4* range front, and 1-1.4* rear. Seems like most folks run a little toe out up front... given my newness with the car, I haven't bothered with that yet.
Interesting news about the RE-11. Is that measurement sidewall to sidewall or treadwidth?
Those camber #'s are right in the meat of the general suggestions I've received for my car. Generally I've been told in the 2-2.4* range front, and 1-1.4* rear. Seems like most folks run a little toe out up front... given my newness with the car, I haven't bothered with that yet.
I got your PM, I'll check it out. Thanks!!!
02-19-2015, 09:48 AM
#7
Racer
Thanks Ed. Brandon gave me a ballpark of where the car was, but wasn't 100%. Tires go on tomorrow and I'll get to the shocks on Saturday once the cold breaks a bit. I'm going to do the first TnT just like that and see how she does - then do the corner balance and make any alignment tweaks the following week.
Great suggestion on rake, makes sense. IF I do any track days it'll be at Barber or TGPR, so no crazy speeds.
The 12.5" was +/- the FLAT, unmounted footprint. So, total tread as it rounded the shoulder was 12.75", maybe pushing 13". Again, very quick measurement. Damn things are wide though. The tires are at the shop, but I'll take a couple pics with tape tomorrow. Funny, the measurements aren't posted on Tire Rack or on Bridgestone's own site...
I got your PM, I'll check it out. Thanks!!!
Great suggestion on rake, makes sense. IF I do any track days it'll be at Barber or TGPR, so no crazy speeds.
The 12.5" was +/- the FLAT, unmounted footprint. So, total tread as it rounded the shoulder was 12.75", maybe pushing 13". Again, very quick measurement. Damn things are wide though. The tires are at the shop, but I'll take a couple pics with tape tomorrow. Funny, the measurements aren't posted on Tire Rack or on Bridgestone's own site...
I got your PM, I'll check it out. Thanks!!!
That's a bunch of tire back there... I'm interested in seeing/hearing how you like them. Depending on how stuff shakes out with tire availability and who has what, I may try mixing some different rears as the season goes on.
Christian
02-19-2015, 09:59 AM
#8
Supporting Vendor
Here's the constant... that there is always an opinion. Which is fine, but at this point the tires are a HUGE question mark. If you were on Hoosier's I'd give you all my specs to the T. Daddio ended up very much like what I run on my car @ Nationals and as we did that the car got better.
That said it was on Hankooks, which I KNOW are very different than say the Rivals were (I also drove my old Grand Sport on those and it was not good, in fact I think Pilot Super Sports were better). That too might change with a Rival S. Remember this is is all *EASY*.
I'm not trying to be coy, just honest that the tires will change things some. Based on what I felt on some RE-11's two weeks ago (and in the past on more stock cars) I'd say that SSR setup is good to start with. Xian was asking similar "what do I do" questions not long ago and my recommendations was to start with the known and work from there.
What's I'd not do is play with toe at the event, and personally I don't want a lot of toe out in front. I run zero these days.
I'll be in Dixie, and I'm teaching the Evo Advantage (remember it's not a full fledged school or anything but I can help a little and at least shake the car down for you and make some recommendations).
That said it was on Hankooks, which I KNOW are very different than say the Rivals were (I also drove my old Grand Sport on those and it was not good, in fact I think Pilot Super Sports were better). That too might change with a Rival S. Remember this is is all *EASY*.
I'm not trying to be coy, just honest that the tires will change things some. Based on what I felt on some RE-11's two weeks ago (and in the past on more stock cars) I'd say that SSR setup is good to start with. Xian was asking similar "what do I do" questions not long ago and my recommendations was to start with the known and work from there.
What's I'd not do is play with toe at the event, and personally I don't want a lot of toe out in front. I run zero these days.
I'll be in Dixie, and I'm teaching the Evo Advantage (remember it's not a full fledged school or anything but I can help a little and at least shake the car down for you and make some recommendations).
__________________
Sam Strano
Strano Performance Parts
www.stranoparts.com
814-849-3450
More options than any other single company out there. More parts than any other single company I know: Brakes to Safety, Wheels to Exhaust. Suspension to Air Filters: Girodisc, Hawk, Raybestos, Essex Racing/AP, Ferodo, Wilwood, Penske, Koni, Borg Motorsport, Ridetech, Viking, After Dark Speed, Hotchkis, Bilstein, KW, Forgestar, BC Forged, Forgeline, MRR Wheels and on, and on, and on it goes.
Sam Strano
Strano Performance Parts
www.stranoparts.com
814-849-3450
More options than any other single company out there. More parts than any other single company I know: Brakes to Safety, Wheels to Exhaust. Suspension to Air Filters: Girodisc, Hawk, Raybestos, Essex Racing/AP, Ferodo, Wilwood, Penske, Koni, Borg Motorsport, Ridetech, Viking, After Dark Speed, Hotchkis, Bilstein, KW, Forgestar, BC Forged, Forgeline, MRR Wheels and on, and on, and on it goes.
02-19-2015, 10:31 AM
#9
Racer
Here's the constant... that there is always an opinion. Which is fine, but at this point the tires are a HUGE question mark. If you were on Hoosier's I'd give you all my specs to the T. Daddio ended up very much like what I run on my car @ Nationals and as we did that the car got better.
That said it was on Hankooks, which I KNOW are very different than say the Rivals were (I also drove my old Grand Sport on those and it was not good, in fact I think Pilot Super Sports were better). That too might change with a Rival S. Remember this is is all *EASY*.
I'm not trying to be coy, just honest that the tires will change things some. Based on what I felt on some RE-11's two weeks ago (and in the past on more stock cars) I'd say that SSR setup is good to start with. Xian was asking similar "what do I do" questions not long ago and my recommendations was to start with the known and work from there.
What's I'd not do is play with toe at the event, and personally I don't want a lot of toe out in front. I run zero these days.
I'll be in Dixie, and I'm teaching the Evo Advantage (remember it's not a full fledged school or anything but I can help a little and at least shake the car down for you and make some recommendations).
That said it was on Hankooks, which I KNOW are very different than say the Rivals were (I also drove my old Grand Sport on those and it was not good, in fact I think Pilot Super Sports were better). That too might change with a Rival S. Remember this is is all *EASY*.
I'm not trying to be coy, just honest that the tires will change things some. Based on what I felt on some RE-11's two weeks ago (and in the past on more stock cars) I'd say that SSR setup is good to start with. Xian was asking similar "what do I do" questions not long ago and my recommendations was to start with the known and work from there.
What's I'd not do is play with toe at the event, and personally I don't want a lot of toe out in front. I run zero these days.
I'll be in Dixie, and I'm teaching the Evo Advantage (remember it's not a full fledged school or anything but I can help a little and at least shake the car down for you and make some recommendations).
I'll be at the Evo Advantage school along with my co-driver. Our goal is really seat time and a little bit of instruction/tips. I highly doubt that there'll be much advantage to be had in futzing with the setup at this point in the driver development curve.
02-19-2015, 12:27 PM
#10
Supporting Vendor
Completely understand Christian. Now. 
I get a LOT, a *LOT* of folks wanting the absolute magic bullet answer wasn't implying (purposely anyway) that you were one of those guys.
I am often misunderstood when I tell someone I don't have an exact answer. Doesn't mean I don't have an idea where I want to go, etc. I just don't get too formal about things until a baseline is set and want folks to understand that *YMMV* depending on any number of factors like sites, tires, driving 'style' etc.
I get a LOT, a *LOT* of folks wanting the absolute magic bullet answer wasn't implying (purposely anyway) that you were one of those guys. I am often misunderstood when I tell someone I don't have an exact answer. Doesn't mean I don't have an idea where I want to go, etc. I just don't get too formal about things until a baseline is set and want folks to understand that *YMMV* depending on any number of factors like sites, tires, driving 'style' etc.
02-19-2015, 01:52 PM
#11
Racer
Completely understand Christian. Now. I get a LOT, a *LOT* of folks wanting the absolute magic bullet answer wasn't implying (purposely anyway) that you were one of those guys.
I am often misunderstood when I tell someone I don't have an exact answer. Doesn't mean I don't have an idea where I want to go, etc. I just don't get too formal about things until a baseline is set and want folks to understand that *YMMV* depending on any number of factors like sites, tires, driving 'style' etc.
I get a LOT, a *LOT* of folks wanting the absolute magic bullet answer wasn't implying (purposely anyway) that you were one of those guys. I am often misunderstood when I tell someone I don't have an exact answer. Doesn't mean I don't have an idea where I want to go, etc. I just don't get too formal about things until a baseline is set and want folks to understand that *YMMV* depending on any number of factors like sites, tires, driving 'style' etc.
But yeah, I hear you on the "YMMV" commentary. What worked for me on my cars may not work for someone else and vice versa.
BTW & FWIW, this car is the first one that I've been legitimately excited about driving again in YEARS. Not that the other stuff wasn't fun (I loved it) but I didn't finish an event and wonder why the next weekend seemed so far away.
02-22-2015, 09:41 PM
#12
Instructor
Thread Starter
Here's the constant... that there is always an opinion. Which is fine, but at this point the tires are a HUGE question mark. If you were on Hoosier's I'd give you all my specs to the T. Daddio ended up very much like what I run on my car @ Nationals and as we did that the car got better.
That said it was on Hankooks, which I KNOW are very different than say the Rivals were (I also drove my old Grand Sport on those and it was not good, in fact I think Pilot Super Sports were better). That too might change with a Rival S. Remember this is is all *EASY*.
I'm not trying to be coy, just honest that the tires will change things some. Based on what I felt on some RE-11's two weeks ago (and in the past on more stock cars) I'd say that SSR setup is good to start with. Xian was asking similar "what do I do" questions not long ago and my recommendations was to start with the known and work from there.
What's I'd not do is play with toe at the event, and personally I don't want a lot of toe out in front. I run zero these days.
I'll be in Dixie, and I'm teaching the Evo Advantage (remember it's not a full fledged school or anything but I can help a little and at least shake the car down for you and make some recommendations).
That said it was on Hankooks, which I KNOW are very different than say the Rivals were (I also drove my old Grand Sport on those and it was not good, in fact I think Pilot Super Sports were better). That too might change with a Rival S. Remember this is is all *EASY*.
I'm not trying to be coy, just honest that the tires will change things some. Based on what I felt on some RE-11's two weeks ago (and in the past on more stock cars) I'd say that SSR setup is good to start with. Xian was asking similar "what do I do" questions not long ago and my recommendations was to start with the known and work from there.
What's I'd not do is play with toe at the event, and personally I don't want a lot of toe out in front. I run zero these days.
I'll be in Dixie, and I'm teaching the Evo Advantage (remember it's not a full fledged school or anything but I can help a little and at least shake the car down for you and make some recommendations).
I understand Evo Friday is not a full school, but the coaching will be helpful and it would be great if you could take a run and give me some feedback. I am also looking at the Saturday and Sunday in Bowling Green the following weekend. Hell, I think I'd eat Dixie to do that weekend if I have to.
Christian - the RE-11's have a tread width of 12.5" with a steel tape. With a paper tape, thread is 13" or so wrapping the shoulder. They really look wide, but that's probably in the ballpark of any other 325. Tires did surprisingly well on the wet roads today. More grip in the wet at 55* than the Michelin Sport ZP's (not SS, but good tires - 75% tread) had on dry roads at 45*.
02-22-2015, 10:23 PM
#13
Although people are starting to wonder about me
02-23-2015, 01:43 AM
#14
Supporting Vendor
Thanks Sam. I know there's no right answer at this point, I'm not going to mess with much for now. The SSR alignment has to be a good place to start without dodging the first cone. Tires are on and I put the Koni's in yesterday. I went with 4 sweeps in the front and 2 in the rear.
I understand Evo Friday is not a full school, but the coaching will be helpful and it would be great if you could take a run and give me some feedback. I am also looking at the Saturday and Sunday in Bowling Green the following weekend. Hell, I think I'd eat Dixie to do that weekend if I have to.
Christian - the RE-11's have a tread width of 12.5" with a steel tape. With a paper tape, thread is 13" or so wrapping the shoulder. They really look wide, but that's probably in the ballpark of any other 325. Tires did surprisingly well on the wet roads today. More grip in the wet at 55* than the Michelin Sport ZP's (not SS, but good tires - 75% tread) had on dry roads at 45*.
I understand Evo Friday is not a full school, but the coaching will be helpful and it would be great if you could take a run and give me some feedback. I am also looking at the Saturday and Sunday in Bowling Green the following weekend. Hell, I think I'd eat Dixie to do that weekend if I have to.
Christian - the RE-11's have a tread width of 12.5" with a steel tape. With a paper tape, thread is 13" or so wrapping the shoulder. They really look wide, but that's probably in the ballpark of any other 325. Tires did surprisingly well on the wet roads today. More grip in the wet at 55* than the Michelin Sport ZP's (not SS, but good tires - 75% tread) had on dry roads at 45*.
Again, I don't think the RE-11 is a bad idea, new stuff might be better, I don't know. I do know that at least we can do some comparisons in a way because I'll have my car in Dixie. And because of how the NCM schools are (3 days starting Friday) I'm staying south, which means I'll have my car @ the NCM schools too and I promise at some point it'll be off the trailer.
The good part of that is simple in that I can see how the cars compare (aside from the fact both are silver 2007's!) and maybe give you a better idea on how to tweak stuff on those tires.
02-23-2015, 10:14 AM
#15
Racer
Christian - the RE-11's have a tread width of 12.5" with a steel tape. With a paper tape, thread is 13" or so wrapping the shoulder. They really look wide, but that's probably in the ballpark of any other 325. Tires did surprisingly well on the wet roads today. More grip in the wet at 55* than the Michelin Sport ZP's (not SS, but good tires - 75% tread) had on dry roads at 45*.
Interesting (to me) update on the Z2's. Ran them again yesterday with my co-driver. We did a total of 12 runs between the 2 of us with a little less than 5 minutes between runs. The course was pretty typical for our locals (ranging from 30-70mph) and we managed to get the tires "too hot" after about 6 runs. Some of it was us leaning on the car harder, some was ambient temps around 70, and some of it was the lower grip surface allowing for more wheelspin and heat. I didn't bring the sprayer but the car got noticeably tougher to place with lower front end responsiveness and less "multi-tasking" ability at the rear.
I doubt this'll be an issue with fronts on a single driver car at the tour but is something to keep in mind for an Evo school or as the summer progresses.
09-05-2016, 10:10 AM
#16
Need some advice
I know the Evo Advantage in Dixie is now full. The course is short (the Test and tune course). A full school, let alone two definitely gets you more seat time. And although Phase 1 and 2's are all about the driver, the seat time for me also gets you some more opinion, and more importantly something you can do something about between the two days if you want.
Again, I don't think the RE-11 is a bad idea, new stuff might be better, I don't know. I do know that at least we can do some comparisons in a way because I'll have my car in Dixie. And because of how the NCM schools are (3 days starting Friday) I'm staying south, which means I'll have my car @ the NCM schools too and I promise at some point it'll be off the trailer. The good part of that is simple in that I can see how the cars compare (aside from the fact both are silver 2007's!) and maybe give you a better idea on how to tweak stuff on those tires.
Again, I don't think the RE-11 is a bad idea, new stuff might be better, I don't know. I do know that at least we can do some comparisons in a way because I'll have my car in Dixie. And because of how the NCM schools are (3 days starting Friday) I'm staying south, which means I'll have my car @ the NCM schools too and I promise at some point it'll be off the trailer.
The good part of that is simple in that I can see how the cars compare (aside from the fact both are silver 2007's!) and maybe give you a better idea on how to tweak stuff on those tires.I have a 2013 427 that I am AXing in AS class. Completely stock, 285/35/18F 345/30/19R with PSS currently. Will try the 305/30/19 RE71R on 19x10F and 335/25/20R PSS ZP soon.
My AX progression plan:
1 Get use to my car
2 Get use to AX including tire options, alignment, EVO school, and as much seat time as possible.
3 Start optimizing my setup.
I think I'm at stage 3 now. Locally I have worked down to 30-20 percentile PAX in the Houston region, but think the PSSs are limiting my climb.
My tire options have been limited, because my car came with 19x10F and 20x12 rear. I currently have two sets of wheels with 18/19 diameters.
I also am considering putting 305/30/19s RE71Rs front and rear.
The next step is suspension. And I have no clue. Also I want to stay legal in AS.
Your thoughts?
Alex
09-05-2016, 09:24 PM
#17
Instructor
Thread Starter
Hey Sam,
I have a 2013 427 that I am AXing in AS class. Completely stock, 285/35/18F 345/30/19R with PSS currently. Will try the 305/30/19 RE71R on 19x10F and 335/25/20R PSS ZP soon.
My AX progression plan:
1 Get use to my car
2 Get use to AX including tire options, alignment, EVO school, and as much seat time as possible.
3 Start optimizing my setup.
I think I'm at stage 3 now. Locally I have worked down to 30-20 percentile PAX in the Houston region, but think the PSSs are limiting my climb.
My tire options have been limited, because my car came with 19x10F and 20x12 rear. I currently have two sets of wheels with 18/19 diameters.
I also am considering putting 305/30/19s RE71Rs front and rear.
The next step is suspension. And I have no clue. Also I want to stay legal in AS.
Your thoughts?
Alex
I have a 2013 427 that I am AXing in AS class. Completely stock, 285/35/18F 345/30/19R with PSS currently. Will try the 305/30/19 RE71R on 19x10F and 335/25/20R PSS ZP soon.
My AX progression plan:
1 Get use to my car
2 Get use to AX including tire options, alignment, EVO school, and as much seat time as possible.
3 Start optimizing my setup.
I think I'm at stage 3 now. Locally I have worked down to 30-20 percentile PAX in the Houston region, but think the PSSs are limiting my climb.
My tire options have been limited, because my car came with 19x10F and 20x12 rear. I currently have two sets of wheels with 18/19 diameters.
I also am considering putting 305/30/19s RE71Rs front and rear.
The next step is suspension. And I have no clue. Also I want to stay legal in AS.
Your thoughts?
Alex
Sam is at nationals this week. Probably best to give him a call next week, he'll get you straight.
The following users liked this post:
adalgleish (09-06-2016)
09-06-2016, 06:12 AM
#18
Hey Sam,
I have a 2013 427 that I am AXing in AS class. Completely stock, 285/35/18F 345/30/19R with PSS currently. Will try the 305/30/19 RE71R on 19x10F and 335/25/20R PSS ZP soon.
My AX progression plan:
1 Get use to my car
2 Get use to AX including tire options, alignment, EVO school, and as much seat time as possible.
3 Start optimizing my setup.
I think I'm at stage 3 now. Locally I have worked down to 30-20 percentile PAX in the Houston region, but think the PSSs are limiting my climb.
My tire options have been limited, because my car came with 19x10F and 20x12 rear. I currently have two sets of wheels with 18/19 diameters.
I also am considering putting 305/30/19s RE71Rs front and rear.
The next step is suspension. And I have no clue. Also I want to stay legal in AS.
Your thoughts?
Alex
I have a 2013 427 that I am AXing in AS class. Completely stock, 285/35/18F 345/30/19R with PSS currently. Will try the 305/30/19 RE71R on 19x10F and 335/25/20R PSS ZP soon.
My AX progression plan:
1 Get use to my car
2 Get use to AX including tire options, alignment, EVO school, and as much seat time as possible.
3 Start optimizing my setup.
I think I'm at stage 3 now. Locally I have worked down to 30-20 percentile PAX in the Houston region, but think the PSSs are limiting my climb.
My tire options have been limited, because my car came with 19x10F and 20x12 rear. I currently have two sets of wheels with 18/19 diameters.
I also am considering putting 305/30/19s RE71Rs front and rear.
The next step is suspension. And I have no clue. Also I want to stay legal in AS.
Your thoughts?
Alex
1) stick with a slower tire like you have now
2) 305/30/19's 71R all around (or maybe the 275/285 on front, not sure which)
3) Go to 18's all around with ForgeStar wheels and run 275/335 Rivals S.
Last edited by talon95; 09-06-2016 at 06:12 AM.
09-06-2016, 06:37 AM
#19
09-06-2016, 08:37 AM
#20
Didn't the 427 have the same options as the z06 for wheels? If so 18/19s were available, and you can go +1/-1... and 18/18, you are still an underdog to the c6z (to a point)... you shouldn't raise any concerns running the same tire setup the rest of AS (c6z/427). Welcome to AStreet, it's been a blast so far.
