Wheel spacers for c5 race car
#2
Drifting
#3
I'd contact Anthony at LG Motorsports. Pretty sure they will custom build you spacers to your spec. You can also try Motorsport Tech. I haven't used them myself, but have heard good feedback over the years about their adapters and spacers. I think H&R still makes wheel spacers as well, but haven't checked recently. Good luck.
#5
I'd contact Anthony at LG Motorsports. Pretty sure they will custom build you spacers to your spec. You can also try Motorsport Tech. I haven't used them myself, but have heard good feedback over the years about their adapters and spacers. I think H&R still makes wheel spacers as well, but haven't checked recently. Good luck.
#6
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2005
Location: Lewisville TX
Posts: 16,898
Received 406 Likes
on
300 Posts
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
1/4 spacer does not have to be hub centric as it will not extend past the wheel bearing. Not until you get to 1/2 do you need to worry about that.
#7
Race Director
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Univer...Inch,3442.html
Make sure you have enough thread engagement.
I've used Southwest alum spacers for years.
Make sure you have enough thread engagement.
I've used Southwest alum spacers for years.
#9
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2005
Location: Lewisville TX
Posts: 16,898
Received 406 Likes
on
300 Posts
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Personally I would do a better stud on a track car no matter, but anything in there they need to have a longer stud.
ARP makes a nice one that is fully threaded but not much longer than stock and gives you much more thread engagement even with 1/2" spacers in there.
ARP makes a nice one that is fully threaded but not much longer than stock and gives you much more thread engagement even with 1/2" spacers in there.
#10
Race Director
Personally I would do a better stud on a track car no matter, but anything in there they need to have a longer stud.
ARP makes a nice one that is fully threaded but not much longer than stock and gives you much more thread engagement even with 1/2" spacers in there.
ARP makes a nice one that is fully threaded but not much longer than stock and gives you much more thread engagement even with 1/2" spacers in there.
#11
Racer
I haven't gone through the effort of measuring engagement (yet) but how much spacer can the stock studs take before I need to swap for ARP extended hardware? I've got some AS legal 18x9.5's on the way and will need at least 5mm of spacer to be legal but would prefer 1/4"...
Thanks!
Thanks!
#12
Race Director
I haven't gone through the effort of measuring engagement (yet) but how much spacer can the stock studs take before I need to swap for ARP extended hardware? I've got some AS legal 18x9.5's on the way and will need at least 5mm of spacer to be legal but would prefer 1/4"...
Thanks!
Thanks!
You need to count the turns once you put the spacer on.
Don't ask me the min. # as that will also be debated. But it's different depending on the stud size.
Somebody will chime in.
For the life of me, I don't get why the stock ones are not fully threaded & also the studs?
So fumble fingers can get them started easier?
#13
I was asking similar, so here's a post from my regional autocross forum regarding how many threads of engagement:
Of course that doesn't take into account thread pitch, which I would assume has some effect, but he had also mentioned 5 full turns at the event as each one after that only bears like <1% of the load... seems reasonable enough.
Here's what mine looked like with ARP studs and an 18mm spacer
I didn't run it like this. Need to go back and see how many threads of engagement I actually had there, it's more than it looks in the picture, but I'm still not sure it's adequate.
Rule of thumb from a mechanical engineer if you don't want to do the calculation:
The rules as i was taught.
In steel you want minimum 1x the bolt OD in depth.
In all soft materials you want a minimum 1.5x(id use 2x) bolt od in depth. (Soft = aluminium, cast iron, brass, etc.)
Fine thread is best in steel.
Coarse thread is best in everything else.
YMMV
The rules as i was taught.
In steel you want minimum 1x the bolt OD in depth.
In all soft materials you want a minimum 1.5x(id use 2x) bolt od in depth. (Soft = aluminium, cast iron, brass, etc.)
Fine thread is best in steel.
Coarse thread is best in everything else.
YMMV
Here's what mine looked like with ARP studs and an 18mm spacer
I didn't run it like this. Need to go back and see how many threads of engagement I actually had there, it's more than it looks in the picture, but I'm still not sure it's adequate.
#14
Racer
Thanks guys! Yeah, I fat fingered my prior post; it should have been 5mm min but would prefer ~1/2". Doesn't sound like there's any way that 1/2" will work with the factory studs. I'm not surprised 5-6mm would be ok since that is pretty mild... guess extended studs will be on the list for later this year. Thankfully it sounds/looks like they're a pretty easy install that can be done with the front hub on the car.
#15
Thanks guys! Yeah, I fat fingered my prior post; it should have been 5mm min but would prefer ~1/2". Doesn't sound like there's any way that 1/2" will work with the factory studs. I'm not surprised 5-6mm would be ok since that is pretty mild... guess extended studs will be on the list for later this year. Thankfully it sounds/looks like they're a pretty easy install that can be done with the front hub on the car.
#16
Racer
Good to know! I'll take a look and see. The prior owner put new hubs (LKQ, IIRC) all the way around. Hopefully I'll be able to do the job without having to pull them off the car.
#17
Is there any issue running a 1/2" spacer that is not hub-centric and doesn't have the centering lip for the wheel? So the wheels are fully supported by the studs and not the hub... problem?
#18
Race Director
In fact if you put the wheel up and are strong enough to jiggle it around a bit you can tell the hole is bigger than the lip by a little bit, but hey, I gave up on those long argument threads a few years ago.
Like putting a little lube on the threads & contact surface of the nut to wheel to prevent galling. And reduce the torque spec about 10%. People who swap wheels a couple of times a month get it.
If your tire shop does it every 3 - 5 years you are probably one of those guys who reads it somewhere "clean & dry" then goes on the forum to argue.
In a word, yep it'll be fine.
#19
Thanks.
So these are right?
https://www.southwestspeed.com/?sec=view_part&id=2572
Or ebay specials which are even cheaper...
What is this? I change my wheels almost weekly and have never done this.
So these are right?
https://www.southwestspeed.com/?sec=view_part&id=2572
Or ebay specials which are even cheaper...
What is this? I change my wheels almost weekly and have never done this.