C5Conrad

I have a C5Z that I'm planning on swapping to C6Z brakes, and I'm trying to pick out some rotors that are NOT drilled. I'm on a bit of a budget and do not need 2-piece- my only requirements is something that won't overheat or crack from light road racing (I am not a serious road racer yet). I do not plan on swapping rotors/pads either. I would say the car is a fun street toy with occasional road racing, but I'm also conscious of how hard I'm using my brakes as to not over heat them.

So here's what I've narrowed it down to:

1. Centric 'high carbon' alloy rotors (non-directional) with e-coating:
- Centric 125.62102 (Front)
- Centric 125.62103 (Rear)

OR

2. StopTech Sport Slotted rotors (directional) with e-coating:
- Centric 12662102SL (Front Left)
- Centric 12662102SR (Front Right)
- Centric 12662103SL (Rear Left)
- Centric 12662103SR (Rear Right)

From what I can tell, the only difference between the Centric and the StopTech is that the StopTech is directional vanes and slotted while Centric is straight vanes and blank. The price difference is about $40 more per rotor going with StopTech. And yes, I do know that StopTech is Centric's performance line.

Based on my description of how I use my car, will the Centric suffice, or do I spring for the more pricey StopTech? Again, I am not a dedicated road racer like many in this section, but I figured this would be the best place to ask.

Thank you very much!

flash911

Operative word above is 'crack,' as in crack pipe, cracked rotors, etc. Curved vanes in theory should cool better offering a measure of safety by not cooking the fluid and overheating other components, possibly longer rotor life due to running cooler, etc.

Road course sure 'aint cheap but it is fun.

UstaB-GS549

Save your money and buy the cheapest brand name blanks. They all crack. I have had some last one 20 minute session and others go a few events.

In theory curved vane rotors pump more air, but the C6 used the same rotor on left and right without a noticeable difference in life.

The only thing to be gained by using C6 Z06 brakes is a really expensive pad and problems with the pins.

blkbrd69

The C6Z brakes are "NOT" an upgrade.

The C5Z brakes with good pads and NAPA rotors are a fine setup.

Had great luck with DBA T3 ClubSpec 4000 Series Slotted Brake Rotors as well as NAPA rotors.

If you must, there are lots of quality C5 big brake setups for sale here.

C5Conrad

So I dug deeper and see what you guys mean about the C6Z calipers. That sucks about the pins, definitely a deal breaker. I suppose I'll look for a BBK in the FS sections, or stick with what I have. Maybe just swap out the HPS pads I have now (not impressed with them).

Soloontario

You will be much happier with better pads (there are many available) and stick with the cheaper rotors.

Obviously BBKs are good, just not sure if they are needed for what you are doing. Initial cost is high but pads are cheaper and brakes work more consistently.

Some folks just go with good 2 piece rotors for less initial outlay but all the faults of the basic slider pin type caliper are still going to be there but rotors will last longer.

BTW some have suggested getting some street miles on your new rotors with some moderate heat cycles before taking them to the track. Not really sure if it works, but I do it anyway.

C5Conrad

My rotors are basically new, maybe 5000 street miles at most. I could probably do without a BBK. I'd at least like to swap out the HPS brake pads with something with a better initial bite with good fade resistance. Will the StopTech street performance pads give me the bite I'm looking for? I had HP+ before (very low life left when I got the car) and they still had good bite but I know they're pretty expensive. I don't mind the dust, I clean my car often.

I suppose I have more research to do because I know everyone has different opinions on brake pads. Looking for something lower cost, high initial bite at lower temps (for street), and fade resistance.

Fulton 1

I've got almost two years now on a set of base C6 calipers front and rear and DRM SS pistons and cooling ducts up front on my C5Z and they've held up well. I've been using the Carbotech XP10/XP8 pad combo since it came highly recommended and I've been very pleased with it for my dual-purpose usage on street tires. I've been using the Centric premium high carbon rotors and they've been fine as well - hard to beat for the price. IMHO, this is a solid combination if you're on a budget and doing the occasional HPDE.

I'm getting faster now and decided to go to a BBK for this year, but I would have no qualms continuing on with the above setup if budget dictated. You just end up replacing parts more often.

No matter what, I would skip any notion of C6Z brakes and go right to a proven setup if you want to spend the money.

EDIT: since you mention wanting to do more research, OP, definitely read through Zenak's "what I have learned" sticky in this forum. It helped me out a great deal when I was getting started a few years ago.

ZedO6

A couple of data points to add based on a few years of tracking a C5Z with OE brakes...

• Cheap C5 blanks with some street miles and racing pad break in seemed to last the longest. Not that I would call 2-3 events long
• The caliper "spread" or clamshelling is what limits these brakes for severe use. It's a design limitation, resulting in pad taper and a long pedal
• There are BBK's that allow the use of C6 Z51 and C6Z stock rotors with 6 piston calipers that are a good intermidate step up until you move to 2 pcs racing rotors. Wilwood 250-11721 can be had for less than $1K brand new and can be upgraded later with 2 pcs racing rotors

tytek

I agree that while sticking to stock brake hardware, it is best to keep the C5Z stuff you already have. Cheap rotors can be had for around $50/ea and you will have to replace them quite often. My DBA 5000/4000 rotors have held up nicely over multiple events, but still show heat stress crack and will have to be replaced after another one or two weekends.

Swap to a track oriented pad and change your fluid to a high boiling point DOT4. The Carbotech XP10 front pads should give you much higher heat tolerance with a good pedal feel. I prefer more front brake bias, so I would suggest you go with less aggressive pad for the rear; an XP8 would be fine.

As far as fluid goes, there are many choices. My favorite is Castrol SRF. It is expensive, but as it has the highest dry and wet boiling point, so you don't need to change it as often (at least I didn't). Some others are Motul RB600 or 660, Stoptech STR660, ATE TYP200. Those are much more pocket friendly and still withstand track temperatures very well.

Bad_AX

Be advised that the only "directional" part of the StopTech Sport Slotted Rotors is the slots. The front rotors are a common casting just like the OEM C6 Z06 rotors. The slots are then added for right and left side. You end up with one rotor with curved vanes running backwards. The rear rotors are a radial pattern vain with right and left slots. The description of this product is very misleading and I will not buy another set.

Before I would buy C6 Z06 calipers, I would get these.

http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Bra...tion=C-6+-+Z06

They won't cost you any more than OEM C6Z calipers by the time you get decent pads, and you can run them with the cheap OEM rotors.

C5Conrad

I was actually just looking at Wilwood's stuff (on TCE's website) I'd like to match the fronts with the FNSL4 rears. I figure I'll bite the bullet and invest now, and keep my stock system, since the BBK's have good resale value.

So the AERO6, FNSL4, and Centric rotors. What pads should I use? I wish they made the Poly D for front and rear...(only available for rears)

Soloontario

I don't think there are very many BBKs that will clear a C5Z's front 17" rims.

C5Conrad

Sorry I did not mention, I will be running 18" C5Z rear wheels up front.

tytek

I run the Wilwood H pads up front and they are excellent. Tough when cold on rotors, but the stopping power is great, as is modulation. Running multiple fast laps in a row on these doesn't cause any fade.

ZedO6

The part number for the Wilwood kit is in my first post...I'd call Todd at TCE, a forum sponsor. Run the H pad if you are using dedicated track pads. If you can, give the Centric rotors a bed in with the H pads on the street and they will last longer on the track. Good luck!

C5Conrad

I'm more or less looking for a dual use pad, I'd like to be able to use them on the street also. With H being the most expensive for these calipers, I'm not sure I'm willing to run them (unless if pad wear in everyday use is average!) Centric rotors are cheap, I'm not going to worry about those.

Do you guys know if the D pads are available for front AND rear? TCE's site shows them for the rear only. Those seem to be suited well for how I'll use them.

Also, any experience with BP-10 or BP-20?

UstaB-GS549

There really is not such a thing as a dual use pad. Street pads will be unsuitable on track for more than one or two laps even if you baby them. True race pads driven on the street will generally wear rotors at a high rate (when cold) and squeak to varying degrees.

The closest thing to a dual use pad IMHO would be Carbotech XP10 compound on front and XP8 on rear. They will dust a bit and squeak when cold and will be suitable for most 2 mile road course tracks. They are marginal at places like Road America (XP12 is pretty good there).

Hawk HP+ are not much better than stock pads. Most race pads will stop well when cold if street driven. If you don't care about noise or dust, then you can run them on the street. When cold, I mean ambient temperatures around 40F and above, otherwise they may need one good stop to get enough heat to work. Be prepared for this if you drive them in winter. The first stop will be dicey.

I have an AP Racing T1 kit on the front. I can use cheap blank rotors, 17" stock Z06 wheels and relatively inexpensive race pads. My Wilwood street pads ($60 at Amazon) can be changed out in a few minutes at the track and may never wear out in my lifetime. My track pads are usually DTC-70 or Ferrodo. I can slow car from around 140 to 50 in the brake zones at Road America all day long with full confidence. My only regret is that I did not buy the kit sooner. I think the LG and TCE kits would be similar in performance and use the same 7420 pad profile which is about the most popular and least expensive pad available. It is roughly about $100 less than the stock pad profile for the front set.

C5Conrad

Well, I will probably get the cheap BP-10 pads for the street, and wait until I really get into road racing to buy the H pads...because I'm not there yet, but I do plan on it.

Adam@Amp'dAutosport.com

For a dual purpose pad you should consider running the Carbotech XP8 on all four corners.