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Post your experience with stainless speed bleeders

 
Old 03-22-2015, 06:34 PM
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tytek
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Default Post your experience with stainless speed bleeders

I am considering installing speed bleeders on my stock C5Z calipers to make brake fluid change a one man's job. Is it a worthy mod for a track car? Any problems with them? Do they tend to leak more than regular bleeder screws?
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Old 03-22-2015, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by tytek View Post
I am considering installing speed bleeders on my stock C5Z calipers to make brake fluid change a one man's job. Is it a worthy mod for a track car? Any problems with them? Do they tend to leak more than regular bleeder screws?
I had some, they were ok, I prefer (one man) pressure bleeder.

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Old 03-22-2015, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by froggy47 View Post
I had some, they were ok, I prefer (one man) pressure bleeder.

I do have a brake motive pressure bleeder, but it is such a pain to hook it up and fill up. Was hoping that the speed bleeders would be easier to use, especially at the track...
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by tytek View Post
I am considering installing speed bleeders on my stock C5Z calipers to make brake fluid change a one man's job. Is it a worthy mod for a track car? Any problems with them? Do they tend to leak more than regular bleeder screws?
Have had mine for 2 seasons on the C5Z. They are a great, no leaks and seem to withstand the temperature well.
Bleeding at the track is quick, works well with a quickjack so that you don't have to take the wheels off.
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Old 03-22-2015, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by tytek View Post
I do have a brake motive pressure bleeder, but it is such a pain to hook it up and fill up. Was hoping that the speed bleeders would be easier to use, especially at the track...
They would be better for a quick track bleed. For Motive try keeping the master full & just use the bottle dry for pressure only, much simpler.

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Old 03-22-2015, 10:26 PM
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I've only put 1 track day on mine, but they work great! It makes bleeding brakes so fast and simple. I bought 5 of them and the extra bottle of sealant, just in case I have issues with leakage. I also bought extra dust caps.

An added benefit of speed bleeders is they don't use air pressure to force brake fluid through the system, which can introduce micro bubbles to the brake fluid.

Anyway, I decided to use them instead of a power bleeder due to the above reasons and I heard a lot of people had good luck with them. I think a lot of the issues with them are due to over torqueing them, but they're so cheap that it seems silly to not buy extra(s).
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Old 03-23-2015, 10:12 AM
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I have Speed Bleeders on both my '87 and my '02. With Speed Bleeders, I can remove 3-4 ounces of old brake fluid from a single caliper in less than 5 minutes.

For track days when you get the brake fluid a little too hot, it will be an easy task to bleed each caliper. I also got the plastic baggie and 3' tube from Speed Bleeder. With that tube slipped over the bleeder. there is no mess and the old fluid can be later drained into a container for disposal.

The only thing you have to watch for is making sure that the master cylinder reservoir doesn't go empty! With the bleeder open and the reservoir full, the brake pedal can be depressed 4-5 times before adding fluid. Get air into the master and you will wind up having to bench bleed the master and then start over.
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Old 03-23-2015, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by c4cruiser View Post
For track days when you get the brake fluid a little too hot, it will be an easy task to bleed each caliper. I also got the plastic baggie and 3' tube from Speed Bleeder. With that tube slipped over the bleeder. there is no mess and the old fluid can be later drained into a container for disposal.
I agree, same here. I love my speedbleeders .. One man job and no mess. Win/win.
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Old 03-23-2015, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by froggy47 View Post

They would be better for a quick track bleed. For Motive try keeping the master full & just use the bottle dry for pressure only, much simpler.

This is what I do, my motive bottle has never had fluid in it. Way easier that way IMO.
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Old 03-23-2015, 12:39 PM
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Just to clarify a couple of things, all car dealerships use pressure bleeding tools not unlike the Motive, just commercial grade, so "if" pressure bleeding introduces "micro bubbles" into brake fluid then virtually every car on the road has them & we should all park our cars until every car on the road is recalled.

You ever see TWO hundred dollar an hour guys at a dealership doing a brake bleed?

"Hey Pete, come here and help me brake bleed this bi%^h!"

The other point is if you are doing a pressure bleed on your car & push air into the master PLEASE STOP and let someone who knows what they are doing work on the car.

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Old 03-23-2015, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by froggy47 View Post
I had some, they were ok, I prefer (one man) pressure bleeder.

Originally Posted by froggy47 View Post
They would be better for a quick track bleed. For Motive try keeping the master full & just use the bottle dry for pressure only, much simpler.

Same here, tried them, didn't like them, went to using the motive without fluid in it.
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Old 03-23-2015, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by froggy47 View Post
Just to clarify a couple of things, all car dealerships use pressure bleeding tools not unlike the Motive, just commercial grade, so "if" pressure bleeding introduces "micro bubbles" into brake fluid then virtually every car on the road has them & we should all park our cars until every car on the road is recalled.

You ever see TWO hundred dollar an hour guys at a dealership doing a brake bleed?

"Hey Pete, come here and help me brake bleed this bi%^h!"

The other point is if you are doing a pressure bleed on your car & push air into the master PLEASE STOP and let someone who knows what they are doing work on the car.

A gas under pressure will force gas molecules into a liquid it comes into contact with. I realize that in this application, this effect will be negligible and that the term "micro bubbles" is a bit misleading. However, I decided on speed bleeders for other reasons, but it's nice that speed bleeders introduce the least amount of air/water into the fresh fluid as possible.

What the stealerships do to bleed brakes obviously works, but that doesn't make it the best way. I agree though that you need to stop and take a big step back if you push all your fluid through the MC and introduce air hahaha.

Anyway, like I said, another happy speed bleeder customer here, so I say go for it, OP.
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Old 03-23-2015, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by miracle_whip4130 View Post
A gas under pressure will force gas molecules into a liquid it comes into contact with. I realize that in this application, this effect will be negligible and that the term "micro bubbles" is a bit misleading. However, I decided on speed bleeders for other reasons, but it's nice that speed bleeders introduce the least amount of air/water into the fresh fluid as possible.

What the stealerships do to bleed brakes obviously works, but that doesn't make it the best way. I agree though that you need to stop and take a big step back if you push all your fluid through the MC and introduce air hahaha.

Anyway, like I said, another happy speed bleeder customer here, so I say go for it, OP.
I just don't want folks to get the wrong idea about pressure bleeding.

A discussion about the gas molecules introduced by that procedure is like the discussion about how many angels can dance on the head of a pin, fun to argue but irrelevant to almost everyone in the end.

I have used both procedures & like both depending on the facts & circumstances. At home in my garage I like to see/watch the fluid come out, at the track the speed bleeders are great & fast & one less bulky tool to carry.



Last edited by froggy47; 03-23-2015 at 05:59 PM.
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Old 03-23-2015, 06:49 PM
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Thanks for all the input. I bought a set of five stainless speed bleeders sometime last year. Been meaning to put them on, but haven't yet. Figured it would be better to ask the questions prior to putting them on.
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Old 03-24-2015, 10:38 AM
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+1 for speed bleeders. installed then 7-8yrs ago and haven't ever had a problem at track or home.
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Old 03-24-2015, 12:42 PM
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What is the sealant that goes on the threads? What do you guys use? It has to be renewed once in a while, yes?

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Old 03-24-2015, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by froggy47 View Post
What is the sealant that goes on the threads? What do you guys use? It has to be renewed once in a while, yes?

I haven't used it yet, since I have only done a couple bleeds, but I just ordered this with my speed bleeders so I have it on hand:

http://www.speedbleeder.zoovy.com/pr...T/Sealant.html
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Old 03-26-2015, 10:03 PM
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I have to go against the grain here and throw out a 3rd option. I personally use a vacuum bleeder. I have used the Motive bleeder, and once the o-ring on it goes, you have to hold it on the master cylinder to keep it sealed (or at least that is what happened to me), which made using it a 2 person bleed job. The speed bleeders do work, but still require pumping the pedal. With a vacuum bleeder it is still a one person job, and you can eliminate any argument about micro-bubbles. I actually tried the vaccum bleeder option last, as I picked up a cheap vacuum bleeder at Harbor Freight for $20 and figured it was only $20 and I would give it a try. I tried it and LOVED it! Then I figured it wouldn't last more than once, but I have used it probably a dozen times now and it is still holding up strong. But just in case, I bought a backup one for $20 and I take both of them to the track, with the backup still sealed in the package as a just in case.

I will say that based on your Youtube video Froggy, you have it down to a science iwth the Motive as well. (as a side note, thanks for all the videos Froggy, you rock!). However, to everyone else, give the vacuum bleeder a try if you never have. I was skeptical based on what I heard, but I love it, and prefer it over speed and pressure bleeders. But, if oyu like the speed or pressure bleeders and have your system perfected, used those then, they can all be good methods, just depends on personal preference.
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Old 03-26-2015, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Deuce Man View Post
I have to go against the grain here and throw out a 3rd option. I personally use a vacuum bleeder. I have used the Motive bleeder, and once the o-ring on it goes, you have to hold it on the master cylinder to keep it sealed (or at least that is what happened to me), which made using it a 2 person bleed job. The speed bleeders do work, but still require pumping the pedal. With a vacuum bleeder it is still a one person job, and you can eliminate any argument about micro-bubbles. I actually tried the vaccum bleeder option last, as I picked up a cheap vacuum bleeder at Harbor Freight for $20 and figured it was only $20 and I would give it a try. I tried it and LOVED it! Then I figured it wouldn't last more than once, but I have used it probably a dozen times now and it is still holding up strong. But just in case, I bought a backup one for $20 and I take both of them to the track, with the backup still sealed in the package as a just in case.

I will say that based on your Youtube video Froggy, you have it down to a science iwth the Motive as well. (as a side note, thanks for all the videos Froggy, you rock!). However, to everyone else, give the vacuum bleeder a try if you never have. I was skeptical based on what I heard, but I love it, and prefer it over speed and pressure bleeders. But, if oyu like the speed or pressure bleeders and have your system perfected, used those then, they can all be good methods, just depends on personal preference.
Thanks for the mention.



I always figure it's good to have options, yours is a good one too. I have a mighty vac that I tried for a while, but I found all the little fittings were a bother & never got it going that well, maybe the HF one is actually better!

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Old 03-27-2015, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Deuce Man View Post
I have to go against the grain here and throw out a 3rd option. I personally use a vacuum bleeder. I have used the Motive bleeder, and once the o-ring on it goes, you have to hold it on the master cylinder to keep it sealed (or at least that is what happened to me), which made using it a 2 person bleed job. The speed bleeders do work, but still require pumping the pedal. With a vacuum bleeder it is still a one person job, and you can eliminate any argument about micro-bubbles. I actually tried the vaccum bleeder option last, as I picked up a cheap vacuum bleeder at Harbor Freight for $20 and figured it was only $20 and I would give it a try. I tried it and LOVED it! Then I figured it wouldn't last more than once, but I have used it probably a dozen times now and it is still holding up strong. But just in case, I bought a backup one for $20 and I take both of them to the track, with the backup still sealed in the package as a just in case.

I will say that based on your Youtube video Froggy, you have it down to a science iwth the Motive as well. (as a side note, thanks for all the videos Froggy, you rock!). However, to everyone else, give the vacuum bleeder a try if you never have. I was skeptical based on what I heard, but I love it, and prefer it over speed and pressure bleeders. But, if oyu like the speed or pressure bleeders and have your system perfected, used those then, they can all be good methods, just depends on personal preference.
Do you ever have any troubles with sucking in air around the bleeder screw threads? I have heard of people sucking in air there with a vacuum bleeder and thinking there was still air in the lines, even though that was not the case. I've also heard a little grease around the bleeder screw threads can solve this issue when vacuum bleeding.
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