Neg camber on stock c6?
06-19-2015, 07:57 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
Froggy -
After setting thrust angle properly & corner-balancing, I was able to get at least -2.4 to -2.5 front on my '08 Z51 C6 coupe and '11 C6 Grand Sport coupe using the stock adjusters. I usually ran -1 degree less then the front setting in the rear, so approximately -1.5.
That was for autocross use, but worked fine on the street, too.
I did find that these cars REALLY work well with a lot of rear toe-in, though still within the range of the stock toe-link adjustments. Just be aware, that has to be reduced for street driving if you care at all about the life of your street tires...
I hope that is the info you're looking for...
After setting thrust angle properly & corner-balancing, I was able to get at least -2.4 to -2.5 front on my '08 Z51 C6 coupe and '11 C6 Grand Sport coupe using the stock adjusters. I usually ran -1 degree less then the front setting in the rear, so approximately -1.5.
That was for autocross use, but worked fine on the street, too.
I did find that these cars REALLY work well with a lot of rear toe-in, though still within the range of the stock toe-link adjustments. Just be aware, that has to be reduced for street driving if you care at all about the life of your street tires...
I hope that is the info you're looking for...
06-19-2015, 08:03 PM
#3
Race Director
Thread Starter
Froggy -
After setting thrust angle properly & corner-balancing, I was able to get at least -2.4 to -2.5 front on my '08 Z51 C6 coupe and '11 C6 Grand Sport coupe using the stock adjusters. I usually ran -1 degree less then the front setting in the rear, so approximately -1.5.
That was for autocross use, but worked fine on the street, too.
I did find that these cars REALLY work well with a lot of rear toe-in, though still within the range of the stock toe-link adjustments. Just be aware, that has to be reduced for street driving if you care at all about the life of your street tires...
I hope that is the info you're looking for...
After setting thrust angle properly & corner-balancing, I was able to get at least -2.4 to -2.5 front on my '08 Z51 C6 coupe and '11 C6 Grand Sport coupe using the stock adjusters. I usually ran -1 degree less then the front setting in the rear, so approximately -1.5.
That was for autocross use, but worked fine on the street, too.
I did find that these cars REALLY work well with a lot of rear toe-in, though still within the range of the stock toe-link adjustments. Just be aware, that has to be reduced for street driving if you care at all about the life of your street tires...
I hope that is the info you're looking for...
06-19-2015, 08:23 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
I'm not certain that I could get much more and stay EVEN across both front wheels. Removing extra shims or lowering further MAY have allowed more neg camber, but I didn't want to sacrifice the optimal corner-balance and rake.
Interestingly, initial setup lowered my Z51 coupe on stock bolts about 3/4 inch, and then the balancing, thrust angle & alignment was done. BUT, I kept requesting further changes to improve auto-x handling that nearly brought the car right back to the OEM ride height...
With the GS, I didn't bother trying to specify a target ride height - - just told David Farmer to optimize the whole setup, with -2.5 camber as the goal in the front. It always worked well, felt balanced on-course and I really never had to fight much understeer. Just keep in mind, I was running 315/345 Hoosiers...
.
Interestingly, initial setup lowered my Z51 coupe on stock bolts about 3/4 inch, and then the balancing, thrust angle & alignment was done. BUT, I kept requesting further changes to improve auto-x handling that nearly brought the car right back to the OEM ride height...
With the GS, I didn't bother trying to specify a target ride height - - just told David Farmer to optimize the whole setup, with -2.5 camber as the goal in the front. It always worked well, felt balanced on-course and I really never had to fight much understeer. Just keep in mind, I was running 315/345 Hoosiers...
.
Last edited by EvilBoffin; 06-19-2015 at 08:25 PM.
06-19-2015, 10:50 PM
#5
Race Director
Thread Starter
I'm not certain that I could get much more and stay EVEN across both front wheels. Removing extra shims or lowering further MAY have allowed more neg camber, but I didn't want to sacrifice the optimal corner-balance and rake.
Interestingly, initial setup lowered my Z51 coupe on stock bolts about 3/4 inch, and then the balancing, thrust angle & alignment was done. BUT, I kept requesting further changes to improve auto-x handling that nearly brought the car right back to the OEM ride height...
With the GS, I didn't bother trying to specify a target ride height - - just told David Farmer to optimize the whole setup, with -2.5 camber as the goal in the front. It always worked well, felt balanced on-course and I really never had to fight much understeer. Just keep in mind, I was running 315/345 Hoosiers...
.
Interestingly, initial setup lowered my Z51 coupe on stock bolts about 3/4 inch, and then the balancing, thrust angle & alignment was done. BUT, I kept requesting further changes to improve auto-x handling that nearly brought the car right back to the OEM ride height...
With the GS, I didn't bother trying to specify a target ride height - - just told David Farmer to optimize the whole setup, with -2.5 camber as the goal in the front. It always worked well, felt balanced on-course and I really never had to fight much understeer. Just keep in mind, I was running 315/345 Hoosiers...
.
Did you ever take tire temps or just try different alignments?
06-20-2015, 02:57 AM
#6
Burning Brakes
But all that depends on how ordering a new C7 Z51 works out...
My first Corvette - the '08 Z51 coupe (in my signature pic) was terrific too, but the GS has been the most fun car I've owned, and by far the easiest car for me to drive fast in 20 years of stock-class autocross competition. That has made me really hesitate to sell it in favor of a new C7...
Anyway, to answer your questions -
We've worked to fine-tune the alignment thru-out the season, including laps run with less rear toe-in. That works fine for my co-driver, but not for me. It's simply a function of driving style and ability to catch snap oversteer before it costs time. When 345-section Hoosiers break away, it can be very sudden...
We usually end up right back at the settings we were both comfortable with initially, and its dialed-in enough now that I can tell the difference in very subtle changes.
.
06-23-2015, 11:15 AM
#7
Race Director
I just worked on a stock height C6 yesterday, max in the rear would be between -1.25 and -1.5. Each car is different, and you can get a bit more with camber plates.
I keep max plates on hand that work with OEM bolts, so I have easy access if I get a car that isn't symmetric.
Aluminum frame cars can get much more, since the uppers are also adjustable
I keep max plates on hand that work with OEM bolts, so I have easy access if I get a car that isn't symmetric.
Aluminum frame cars can get much more, since the uppers are also adjustable
Wish you were on the East Coast - I think you would love my ultra-clean 2011 C6 Grand Sport w/8k miles. It may be for sale in the next 1-3 weeks, along with a ton of great SSR-class autocross & HPDE goodies.
But all that depends on how ordering a new C7 Z51 works out...
My first Corvette - the '08 Z51 coupe (in my signature pic) was terrific too, but the GS has been the most fun car I've owned, and by far the easiest car for me to drive fast in 20 years of stock-class autocross competition. That has made me really hesitate to sell it in favor of a new C7...
Anyway, to answer your questions -
We've worked to fine-tune the alignment thru-out the season, including laps run with less rear toe-in. That works fine for my co-driver, but not for me. It's simply a function of driving style and ability to catch snap oversteer before it costs time. When 345-section Hoosiers break away, it can be very sudden...
We usually end up right back at the settings we were both comfortable with initially, and its dialed-in enough now that I can tell the difference in very subtle changes.
.
But all that depends on how ordering a new C7 Z51 works out...
My first Corvette - the '08 Z51 coupe (in my signature pic) was terrific too, but the GS has been the most fun car I've owned, and by far the easiest car for me to drive fast in 20 years of stock-class autocross competition. That has made me really hesitate to sell it in favor of a new C7...
Anyway, to answer your questions -
We've worked to fine-tune the alignment thru-out the season, including laps run with less rear toe-in. That works fine for my co-driver, but not for me. It's simply a function of driving style and ability to catch snap oversteer before it costs time. When 345-section Hoosiers break away, it can be very sudden...
We usually end up right back at the settings we were both comfortable with initially, and its dialed-in enough now that I can tell the difference in very subtle changes.
.
06-23-2015, 12:05 PM
#8
Race Director
Thread Starter
I just worked on a stock height C6 yesterday, max in the rear would be between -1.25 and -1.5. Each car is different, and you can get a bit more with camber plates.
I keep max plates on hand that work with OEM bolts, so I have easy access if I get a car that isn't symmetric.
Aluminum frame cars can get much more, since the uppers are also adjustable
I keep max plates on hand that work with OEM bolts, so I have easy access if I get a car that isn't symmetric.
Aluminum frame cars can get much more, since the uppers are also adjustable
