froggy47

Well, ummm, yea, I missed that. That too.

Ludeaem

Brake ducts on a cool 50 degree day? Supposed to be dry but cool and wondered if i should bother hooking up the hose from the duct to the spindle. I think i read you really can't 'over cool' but wanted to check back in with you guys

0Todd TCE

Keep in mind that while a nice set up this:

1. Is not a Wilwood kit. It's a kit produced by others using an alternative to stock caliper produced by Wilwood. Doesn't make them 'bad' just any questions or misgivings should be addressed to the builder/supplier rather than shouldered by Wilwood.

2. Fitting this caliper does not alter the piston area. The (ok, near same) area of both the twin pot slider vs the six pot fixed is nearly identical. Thus the clamping is also. The net gains here however are improved response, better pad wear and maybe some better thermal dynamics. And of course fatter pads.

Swapping caliper for caliper of equal area alone won't make much a a difference as you have proven. The use of pads such as ST43 and 47 are "extreme duty" pads you might say. If there was any use of those pads on the street the wear rate will be through the roof on rotors.

If that wear was primarily track use the possibility does exist that temps were cooler than should be had with this type of compound.

I've said it for 23yrs as have others: you must come to grips with a two compound pad formula: Street and Track.

SunnydayDILYSI

I've noticed that it is difficult to find parts (rotor rings, hardware, pads) for PFC setups online. What is the best way to get replacements?

FASTFATBOY

There was a part number for this kit on Wilwoods website, it was made for a certain class where a 13 inch rotor was max you could run on the Camaro/Firebird, I no longer see it on there site. It had a radial mount SL6 piston with a 20mm pad and an aluminum hat 2 piece rotor.

The issue I had was rotors cracking, very early. I had cooling on the car and never ran track pads on the street. I ran BP 10's on the street. It went through rotors like candy, I contacted you about it and ran 2-3 different style rotor, it ate them all.

Closed the cooling off and it did much better on rotor life.

0Todd TCE

Ahh, yes you are correct. I read it as simply the SL6 caliper kit a number of vendors make. Apologies.

There were a couple kits over the years like that which were class specific.

I had to go digging info on an old today: SVO four lug kit. Seems I bought the last of the inventory a couple years ago. Bummed as the customer doesn't want to go to five lug...Brought back some of my Bondo day memories on all that old Fox body stuff.

Darlas81

Thought I would lose my mind. I'm trying to loosen the bolts on the rear calipers on my 81. It looks like the bolts on the caliper itself are new, but the ones that hold it onto the bracket are what I'm trying to take off.
I tried a propane torch, but couldn't seem to get it hot enough. I'm about ready to try the heat gun. I've tried an air ratchet..... nothing.
I'm afraid of rounding these off. The car has been on racks for over a year, and I'm ready to get this thing done for the season. I bought new hoses off Ebay for the front and rear. The rubber ones. tried to put them into the bracket welded onto the front.... won't fit in the bracket, even thought the old and new are the same size. I twisted off the steel hose trying to get it off. I've ultimately gone to Zip and got new stainless steel lines, both front and rear, and for the crossovers. Can't get the old ones off. I'm ready to put it on a trailer and haul it to a mechanic, and look dumb as hell.
Any tips?
Thanks

froggy47

Did you get them hot enough to glow a little red?

Heat cycle will bust up the corrosion/rust and melt any loctite. Heat until the bolts start to "color up" a little, let them cool down so the color is going away & hit with impact or a long breaker bar. If it strips drill & use a HIGH QUALITY easy out.

FASTFATBOY

Can you get a good lick on it with a hammer and a drift pin?

Get is hot as you can and throw cold water on it and immediately try to turn it.

Socalconstruction1

Track break help.
My setup, I have a 2011 GS Auto. Intake, Exhaust, roll cage, race seats/harnesses, sway bars, shocks, steel break lines, 600 Fluid, Hawk 70 pads front and rear, stick rims and Super Sport tires with stock rotors. My last two times out, I put hair line fractures in my front rotors, not the rears, I replaced them with new OEM rotors and one more day at the track and did it again. I've got no complaints in how the breaks perform, they seem great to me, however I'm very novice and the breaking over stock pads was a huge upgrade for me. I just want to be able to track my car and have the rotors last more than a day. My new setup I'm planning to go with is Carboteck 12s on all 4, and some DBA 4000s front and rear. Slotted not drilled. Or possibly even blank, I'm up in the air in slotted Vrs blank. I will put my stock pads back on when I drive the car in the street but won't swap rotors. I now track the car 90% of the time and 10% street use. Any input would be greatly appropriated.

froggy47

A picture of the "hair line" fractures would help. Do you just have the stock rotor cooling?

Socalconstruction1

Yes just the stock rotor cooling that comes in the GS.

Socalconstruction1

These have only 2 track days in them, they were installed by the dealer and I trailered the car to the track. They got the fractures the first day and got worse the second. They have maybe 2 street miles on them, from the dealer to my house.

blkbrd69

To me the pics in 772 just look barely broken in? Keep running them.

FASTFATBOY

Those cracks are normal, I would buy blank rotors, no holes.

Socalconstruction1

I didn't know that was normal. Before I started tracking my car I never had cracks like that, nor do any of my other vehicles. Was only after I started tracking it did I get them so thought they were forsure messed up. If they progressively get worse, at what pint do they need to be replaced?

froggy47

I agree with blkbrd69 and fastfatboy but I would suggest switch to blanks or slots and add a GOOD duct cooling system.

You could throw some bucks at a bbk (nothing wrong with that & some GOOD vendors will oblige) but I bet you would be pretty satisfied if you do as I suggest.

FASTFATBOY

Its from tracking the car, you are putting a lot of heat in the brakes. All rotors no matter how good do this. All you can do is slow the process down with better quality or pads that are not as aggressive. Rotors. pads and tires are consumables for track duty.

Rules of thumb on cracks are:

If a fingernail will go in it change it. If a fingernail will grab it, it's getting bad and you should watch them closely.

If a crack is close to or at the edge, change them.

I keep my cracked ones and finish them off on the street with street pads.

Extra cool down time riding the paddock may also help life.

Socalconstruction1

Thanks for the clarification. I usually run my last lap (after checkard flag) without touching the breaks, just down shift in the turns, to help cool them.

SunnydayDILYSI

Agree with the comments above. One more tip is that if you are not racing, take the warm up leap easy. Fast temp changes accelerate the cracking. Ease into the warm up and cool down. Also avoid puddles.