Does anyone have any braking questions.
#1441
General questions to clarify my interpretations:
1) Excessive camber will result in excessive ABS engagement & slight instability under straight line braking from high speeds - t/f?
2) The sensation of an initially soft & low pedal, becoming hard and pushing back against one's foot/leg effort can be explained by insufficient temperatures for the pad compound - t/f?
3) What are the most common causes of a slight 'soot' discolouration of the master resv, after one track day on completely flushed/bled fluid?
EDIT: re: #3, I found this:
1) Excessive camber will result in excessive ABS engagement & slight instability under straight line braking from high speeds - t/f?
2) The sensation of an initially soft & low pedal, becoming hard and pushing back against one's foot/leg effort can be explained by insufficient temperatures for the pad compound - t/f?
3) What are the most common causes of a slight 'soot' discolouration of the master resv, after one track day on completely flushed/bled fluid?
EDIT: re: #3, I found this:
Last edited by carefulnow; 05-05-2017 at 09:31 PM.
#1442
Intermediate
66 stock brakes
Hi Johnny,
Thanks for offering your expertise. I blew a piston seal on the left rear caliper on my 66 Vette. Everything is factory spec on the car and the steel brake lines were replaced about 5 years ago. It's a driver, not a show car. I want to keep everything as original as I can. Would recommend rebuilding the caliper or replacing it?
If rebuild, what is your recommendation for the best kit?
Thanks!
Thanks for offering your expertise. I blew a piston seal on the left rear caliper on my 66 Vette. Everything is factory spec on the car and the steel brake lines were replaced about 5 years ago. It's a driver, not a show car. I want to keep everything as original as I can. Would recommend rebuilding the caliper or replacing it?
If rebuild, what is your recommendation for the best kit?
Thanks!
#1443
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jul 2010
Location: Tacoma, Wa/Surprise, Az
Posts: 2,841
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Hi Johnny,
Thanks for offering your expertise. I blew a piston seal on the left rear caliper on my 66 Vette. Everything is factory spec on the car and the steel brake lines were replaced about 5 years ago. It's a driver, not a show car. I want to keep everything as original as I can. Would recommend rebuilding the caliper or replacing it?
If rebuild, what is your recommendation for the best kit?
Thanks!
Thanks for offering your expertise. I blew a piston seal on the left rear caliper on my 66 Vette. Everything is factory spec on the car and the steel brake lines were replaced about 5 years ago. It's a driver, not a show car. I want to keep everything as original as I can. Would recommend rebuilding the caliper or replacing it?
If rebuild, what is your recommendation for the best kit?
Thanks!
#1444
So what is it with these "high-carbon"-labeled rotors? I understand that iron rotors have some carbon in them but is "high-carbon" a marketing gimmick or does it actually have benefits?
#1445
Supporting Vendor
You could get a PhD explaining it - the answer is not short.
The carbon content and how it's dispersed (precipitated) in gray cast iron contributes heavily to the material properties. It's not a simple 'more is better' type thing but that is part of it.
#1447
Burning Brakes
You stated that your Vette was "factory spec". Does that mean you still have the original, non-SS sleeved disc brakes? Also, what type of brake fluid are you using, e.g., DOT 3, 4, 5, or 5.1? (The glycol-based DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 are hygroscopic and will absorb water over time. DOT 5 is silicone, but unless the original brake fluid is carefully flushed out, it has a tendency to trap water inside the brake system.)
I swapped my 67's and 72's stock calipers to SS sleeved units when they first became available from SS Corporation. That and flushing out the old brake fluid with Ford DOT 3 recommend by Carroll Smith every other year ending my braking problems with those two Vettes.
Hope this helps!
#1448
Race Director
Shelby gt350r brake question
I know wrong forum, but brakes are brakes.
http://www.roadandtrack.com/new-cars...rakes-details/
What I am tying to understand is if the rotors are replaced separate from the hat. The brief descriptions I have found are that, while they ARE 2 piece they are "cast together" or something?
Anyone have info on this?
http://www.roadandtrack.com/new-cars...rakes-details/
What I am tying to understand is if the rotors are replaced separate from the hat. The brief descriptions I have found are that, while they ARE 2 piece they are "cast together" or something?
Anyone have info on this?
#1449
Supporting Vendor
It's co-cast.
There are pin drive BMW rotors, the tab-drive C7 Z51 and several AUDI rotors like this.
Tough process I would expect to support an asssembled hat 'in' a casting mold but...
It removes one of the benefits which is replacing just the ring.
Ken
There are pin drive BMW rotors, the tab-drive C7 Z51 and several AUDI rotors like this.
Tough process I would expect to support an asssembled hat 'in' a casting mold but...
It removes one of the benefits which is replacing just the ring.
Ken
#1450
Supporting Vendor
I know wrong forum, but brakes are brakes.
http://www.roadandtrack.com/new-cars...rakes-details/
What I am tying to understand is if the rotors are replaced separate from the hat. The brief descriptions I have found are that, while they ARE 2 piece they are "cast together" or something?
Anyone have info on this?
http://www.roadandtrack.com/new-cars...rakes-details/
What I am tying to understand is if the rotors are replaced separate from the hat. The brief descriptions I have found are that, while they ARE 2 piece they are "cast together" or something?
Anyone have info on this?
FYI...we just released our complete Essex/AP Racing Radi-CAL Competition Brake Kit for the GT350, and our kit shaves about 30 unsprung lbs. off the nose of the car! For reference as mentioned above, the OEM dual-cast discs on the GT350 are each about 10 lbs. heavier vs. our fully-floating 2-piece AP Racing discs.
#1451
Race Director
Those are dual-cast discs, similar to the C7 Z51 discs. A separate hat and iron disc ring are formed as two separate pieces, and then cast together. You cannot separate them and replace the iron ring. This type of disc is replaced as one complete piece, just like a normal one-piece disc from a C5, base C6, etc. The goal with these discs is to provide some of the benefits of a two-piece floating/racing disc, while still being able to resist the road salt/corrosion issues aluminum disc hats can have. Other performance cars have used similar designs over the years, with the BMW M3 being the most common one that comes to mind. The amount of float in these discs will be much more limited than a true racing design, and as you can see in the pics, the 'arms' used to attach the hat to the disc partially obscure airflow into some of the vanes. The dual-cast design also weighs more than then typical two-piece aftermarket discs.
FYI...we just released our complete Essex/AP Racing Radi-CAL Competition Brake Kit for the GT350, and our kit shaves about 30 unsprung lbs. off the nose of the car! For reference as mentioned above, the OEM dual-cast discs on the GT350 are each about 10 lbs. heavier vs. our fully-floating 2-piece AP Racing discs.
FYI...we just released our complete Essex/AP Racing Radi-CAL Competition Brake Kit for the GT350, and our kit shaves about 30 unsprung lbs. off the nose of the car! For reference as mentioned above, the OEM dual-cast discs on the GT350 are each about 10 lbs. heavier vs. our fully-floating 2-piece AP Racing discs.
#1452
Supporting Vendor
No worries! I just googled it, and it looks like the street price on those OEM discs is about $250-300 each.
Also...I dug up this pic that gives you a good idea of the floating mechanism. When the iron heats up, it is able to slide a short distance on those pins.
Also...I dug up this pic that gives you a good idea of the floating mechanism. When the iron heats up, it is able to slide a short distance on those pins.
Last edited by JRitt@essex; 05-30-2017 at 02:35 PM.
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daleong (05-30-2017)
#1455
Intermediate
#1456
Race Director
Thanks. These M3/GT350R type rotors seem to strike a real value point and balance between cheap(er) one piece rotors and true 2 piece.
Last edited by froggy47; 05-30-2017 at 06:50 PM.
#1457
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Posts: 40,076
Received 8,915 Likes
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5,326 Posts
Bill
#1458
Race Director
PFC's C6 kit was the worse kit I've ever run. Horrible bias issues and constant knock back
I've liked Stoptech since the beginning, but the AP's I have now are the best brakes I've ever run
I have seen Wilwoods fail miserably, yet I have customers that love them. They have a very broad product line and the performance varies greatly
I've liked Stoptech since the beginning, but the AP's I have now are the best brakes I've ever run
I have seen Wilwoods fail miserably, yet I have customers that love them. They have a very broad product line and the performance varies greatly
The following users liked this post:
JRitt@essex (06-07-2017)
#1460
Supporting Vendor
PFC's C6 kit was the worse kit I've ever run. Horrible bias issues and constant knock back
I've liked Stoptech since the beginning, but the AP's I have now are the best brakes I've ever run
I have seen Wilwoods fail miserably, yet I have customers that love them. They have a very broad product line and the performance varies greatly
I've liked Stoptech since the beginning, but the AP's I have now are the best brakes I've ever run
I have seen Wilwoods fail miserably, yet I have customers that love them. They have a very broad product line and the performance varies greatly
The $35 WW rotors only LOOK like the GT48? line.