KNSBrakes

If it's a street or light track use the GM pad is the most tested and likely best alternative.

If it's hard track there are some options as well.

Ken

Scooter70

Sounds like improper pad bedding. Once they got warm, you got a good transfer layer and then they were fine after that.

bfit

Thank you Ken
I will order a set of the GM pads
Thanks again
Bob

KNSBrakes

I’m sure we would enjoy some feedback and pictures on this build and what you are doing with that car.

kdm123

Could be, but I don't think so. I bedded them in again on the road just before pulling into the track. Also, it didn't only happen in the first session.

KNSBrakes

Consider adding more details.

Same thing I always ask.

Tires?
Car mods?
Driver skill?
Event type and track?
Other?

kdm123

It felt like the rear was locking, but it may have just been the front brakes darting.

I guess to figure this out in my own mind I have to ask:
1) What would the car do if you had unequal braking in the front; i.e. if the right front brake was working normally but the left front brake was barely working. This on an ABS-equipped car.

2) What would the car do if you had unequal rear brakes, such as the right rear brake working fine but the left rear brake not working. This on an ABS-equipped car.

JimMueller

How would you compare the streetable PAGID pad compounds vs the Ferodo DS2500? Are there any PAGID race compounds that are compatible with their streetable compounds so that one can use the same rotors?

StudebakerJoe

C5 emergency brake has no holding power even after new shoes. Any thoughts?

Bill Dearborn

urslooow

What do u think of Cobalt XR-1 pads on a track only car with stop tech st-60/ST-40 setup

KNSBrakes

That's a well liked compound and very aggressive. Are you on race tires?

urslooow

KNSBrakes

They are well liked by many and the XR1 is the compound for race tires.

I list them for some OEM applications and I am getting to listing them for aftermarket calipers now also.

They are made to order in MI and Andie is a great guy to talk to.

They do have brass rivets in there so you may not want to run them all of the way down.

ST60
http://www.knsbrakes.com/c/caliper-s...328_Cobalt+XR1

ST40
http://www.knsbrakes.com/c/caliper-s...328_Cobalt+XR1

StudebakerJoe

I did not. I have ordered the gauge and will check. What should the clearance be? Thanks

Bill Dearborn

Supposedly, the gauge has sufficient offset to give you the proper clearance. The problem comes in usage. The shoes move around and aren't always quite centered so sometimes the measurement may get a little tight. Adjust it to what the gauge indicates and try the rotor/drum to see if it fits. If it starts to jam when you put it on be careful it is possible to get it on and not have enough clearance and then have trouble getting it off. It is sort of an iterative process where the gauge gets you into the ball park.

Bill

Rob Joyner

Okay, Johnny C, I have a '08 base model with Z-51. I have 50k miles on it and the pads are starting to wear down pretty far. Can't say I'm in the danger zone yet, think I have a ways to go before that. I grew up in my dad's garage and I've always done most of my work mainly to save money. I've got some age on me now but I'm still considering doing this brake job myself. I'm even going to paint the calipers before re-installing. I guess I could go the cheap route and just put new o-rings in the calipers, slap some pads on there and go with it. The drilled rotors do have some wear but I'm not sure what the minimum thickness should be and whether I will reach such a point before I have to do brakes again, which will likely be never since I'm 70 years old. I do realize that the car is now 10 years old and maybe some other things should be considered. Hope I'm not putting you on the spot here since you feel like I do that safety comes first.
Actually, I've been a member since 2013, but I can't remember my login info so I had to start all over again with a new member account. Ain't bad memory a *itch.

mikeCsix

Rob, hard to tell what you're asking, the rotor thickness minimum is stamped on the side of the rotor.

If you're looking for pads, on a non tracked Z-51 car, I would look at GM replacements in ceramic. They'll dust less. I'd also check the wheel bearings since you have everything apart. Hope this helps

mike

KNSBrakes

The minimum thickness should be 32mm (new are 32mm)

The Z51 pads are pretty good so if you like and use the stopping up in those mountains you might want to make sure you get a stronger rather than weaker compound.

Pads, maybe rotors, clean and grease the slide pins and you should be good to go.

Bill Dearborn

10 years probably means more than replacing the pads. Since you are thinking about touching up the calipers it might be a good idea to throw in a caliper rebuild kit. GM can provide both the pads with associated caliper hardware and the proper caliper rebuild kit. Rebuilding the calipers is easy and they even provide the proper lube so you install the pistons without tearing up the new seals. Last time I did that was on my C5 (similar caliper). It didn't take long at all to take the calipers apart, clean them and reassemble. The GM pads will come with new pad guide pin bolts, pad retention clips, springs and I believe the caliper rebuild kit might have new caliper mounting bolts.

Bill