KNSBrakes

If you are just starting out I would suggest a Carbotech XP10 front and XP8 rear along with some track brake fluid. Or if you must street the pad some the Ferodo DS2500 will work reasonably well at both.

The Carbotech's have good modulation and are not as aggressive as far as dust is concerned which may work well for you.

Ken

olracer66

I hope my question is in the right forum. I just replaced the brake fluid in my '67 roadster, and ended up with a hard pedal. The brakes have had the "stainless" insert treatment. I pumped the old fluid out by opening the brake bleeders (RR-LR-RF-LF order). My wife was my "helper" and she would depress the pedal to the floor for each pumping event. After we pumped a can of old DOT 3 out of the system and replaced w/ new fluid, I found I now have a "hard" pedal. HELP

WhiteRocket

Thanks Ken.

strano@stranoparts.com

I'd be happy to discuss it with you if you want to give me a call. There's no one way to skin a cat. But I run a lot of stuff and personally while I am a huge fan of ferodo DS 2500s in many many cases I have found pads that worked very similar to those four street use, but held up better on the track. I've also found a couple track pads that do not just munch on rotors when not up to temperature as they will be on a track. But of course each thing has a trade off.

To be very honest I just don't revel spending lots of time giving away recommendations to spend more time defending them when folk on the internet like to argue. If you want to make the call I think it would be worthwhile. And it would be more than me just saying I recommend this. End of story, there's one thing about me and that's that I tend to be thorough, maybe to thorough when discussing options and reasoning with customers.

mr.beachcomber

At first I thought this was an April's Fool joke, but you posted on March 31st. Not sure what your question is. You should have a hard, not mushy, brake pedal after flushing the old brake fluid and bleeding all four corners. Could you provide additional information as to what has you concerned? Also, do you have power brakes or the standard manual system?

WhiteRocket

PM sent

olracer66

Mr. Beachcomber,
Thanks for the reply. Brakes are standard...no booster assist. There is a difference between a good firm brake pedal & my rock hard one. I vaguely remember that there may be a problem with the valves in the master cylinder, but don't have a clue how to cure the problem..

Coloradotexan

I'm taking my 216 c7 z51 to Germany for a few years. Autobahn and a few nordschleife runs every year. I don't mind dust. Can I just use the stock brakes for this. I'm replacing now.

Thanks

mr.beachcomber

With your Vette running at idle, do you have a red brake warning light displayed? If so, you my have inadvertently activated the brake proportioning valve while you were bleeding the system. (The proportioning valve senses low system pressure and diverts all braking to one part of the system. The pedal becomes very stiff and the brake warning light comes on and stay on until reset.) To reset the proportioning valve, try hard braking (try to lock up the wheels) from 25-30 mph. It may take a couple of tries, but eventually the proportioning valve will reset and the brake warning light to go out.

Usually the low system pressure is caused by leaky seals in the calipers themselves; however, if during the brake bleeding process either or both reservoirs were allowed to run dry, air could be sucked into the master cylinder lowering the system brake pressure to the point the proportioning valve would activate. I would recommend bleeding the master cylinder using the stock bleeder screws for each reservoir. If your master cylinder has been replaced with a later model w/o the bleeder screws, have your assistant pump and hold the brake pedal while your use a wrench to just crack open the brake line fitting for each reservoir. If there is any air present, it will bubble out. (If there is no air, only brake fluid will seep out.) Be sure to tighten the brake line fittings prior to allowing your assistant to release the brake pedal.

Hope this helps!

olracer66

Thanks again Mr. Beachcomber,
I think the 'problem" may have fixed itself. After setting for 2 days, the brake pedal resistance seems to be near normal again. Haven't test driven the car yet, but it feels "fixed", I'll keep your proportioning valve fix in mind. My master cylinder is a later model that would require "cracking" both lines.

romandian

i see any combination of caliper placement on cars, in front of the axle or behind, front or rear. so i should assume it will not matter where they are? not so. i have my ideas but would like to hear from the pros.

KNSBrakes

Looking at the driver side you would prefer the front to be at 3:00 and the rear at 9:00

Closest to the center of the car and least susceptible to pad knockback from cornering forces.

0Todd TCE

Ken would be correct for vehicle Dynamics, however the location on most cars today is dictated by the steering: front steer or rear steer. The steering arm of the spindle dictating the brakes be on the opposite side. Most all FWD or AWD cars are RS as the rack is mounted on the firewall. Much could be said for the same design of the rear suspension layout.

Speedfreaq

@johnny c , I have added aftermarket pads (Carbotech 1521 low dust) to my oem steel rotors on my 2017 Z06 without Z07 and I have trouble with very low braking response in heavy rain until I apply pressure and the grip gradually builds. The result is code brown moments in stop and go traffic where I have to apply double the brake pressure to get these to stop and the stopping distance increases greatly.

I haven’t tried a thorough burnishing procedure with these pads and they were added about about 1,000 miles on the car (and I didn’t do burnishing with the OEM pads either).

Any suggestions?

Thanks

KNSBrakes

I don't think he is posting in here too much anymore? He is making some GREAT wings including those for Corvette's though. NineLivesRacing is his company.

I think your slots can pick up a bit of water if it's heavy. Those pads do take a bit more pressure to bite as well so I'd be prepared in rain.

-Ken

Speedfreaq

I appreciate your response and have had slotted rotors before with large multi-piston calipers with ZERO impact due to rain (Nissan 370Z and Infiniti G37S with aftermarket EBC slotted rotors and yellow stuff brake pads). I’m not saying it’s all pads, but I’m really curious about the experience of others in the rain with the OEM Brembo pads or other options. Also, curious if the burnishing process would likely help.

Again, thanks for chiming in to help me make sense of this.

badhabit_wb

I'm running the AP's and they work fine in the rain. They have something called a j hook that's a slot shaped like and upside down j.

KNSBrakes

I had one particular car/setup that did that as well and I can't remember. I think it was my 2015 WRX that I did a Wilwood setup on. It definitely was not knockback - and once cleared the pads did their job albeit the 1521 is not high friction. I basically assumed that the water spray in this case was more directed or something. I agree it was not fantastic in the rain.

Stockervet

Time to upgrade. What combo rotors pads lines fluid u recommend for street only. I had baer eradispeed with hawk in past c5 and like those.

Ty. Tom

KNSBrakes

This is a good street setup.


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