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Also, on a 2001 you can take off the electronic half of the module without opening the lines, it's super easy and saves some mess/hassle. My buddy just did it on his car and it worked great, no air in the lines or module to fight with.
Also, on a 2001 you can take off the electronic half of the module without opening the lines, it's super easy and saves some mess/hassle. My buddy just did it on his car and it worked great, no air in the lines or module to fight with.
This is what I read on ABSFIXER, that simply removing the module wouldn't introduce air into the system. Absolutely no fluid dripped out when I removed it...so I assumed that was a true statement from them.
However, considering I fought with the exact same problems Latebreak mentioned, I wanted to be sure it was purged just to be confident no air had worked itself into the system. I have no way of knowing if all of the issues were the failing output solenoid or a combination of solenoid and air. Maybe the failing solenoid let air into it. Not a clue. I'd just rather not find out at the first track day.
Thanks guys! I'll look at the Tech2 or Mongoose substitute, as it could be helpful with both of my C5Z's. What else could I do with it to justify the purchase? Short of that, I'll take it to the dealer. I just prefer they do as little work on the car as possible.
Dang! We haven't seen that, but it sure sounds like no fun! Definitely do what you need to do until you get a good pedal Quickshift.
I think it was mainly because I had bought the module a while back, so it had been sitting on the shelf for about 2 years, so there was a lot of time for fluid to seep out of the ports and internal passages, and for any remaining fluid to pick up moisture from the air. In any case, it made for a stressful year of racing.
This is what I read on ABSFIXER, that simply removing the module wouldn't introduce air into the system. Absolutely no fluid dripped out when I removed it...so I assumed that was a true statement from them.
However, considering I fought with the exact same problems Latebreak mentioned, I wanted to be sure it was purged just to be confident no air had worked itself into the system. I have no way of knowing if all of the issues were the failing output solenoid or a combination of solenoid and air. Maybe the failing solenoid let air into it. Not a clue. I'd just rather not find out at the first track day.
Thanks guys! I'll look at the Tech2 or Mongoose substitute, as it could be helpful with both of my C5Z's. What else could I do with it to justify the purchase? Short of that, I'll take it to the dealer. I just prefer they do as little work on the car as possible.
I check for codes after every event. It will tell you lots. I also check for overrevs etc.I'm using the GDS2 software. So far I haven't had one. It's how I knew I had a misfire on cyl 7 and 8. You can also sign up for a 2 year subscription for Vehicle programming updates but probably not too usefull unless there are updates you want and don't have.
I check for codes after every event. It will tell you lots. I also check for overrevs etc.I'm using the GDS2 software. So far I haven't had one. It's how I knew I had a misfire on cyl 7 and 8. You can also sign up for a 2 year subscription for Vehicle programming updates but probably not too usefull unless there are updates you want and don't have.
It looks like the GM Tech2 is only $252? What does the MongoosePro give me that the Tech2 doesn't for twice the cost? Most of the codes will show up on the DIC or my basic OBDII scanner. You can't check for over-revs, but it told me what the ABS problem was.
I'm leaning toward taking it to the dealer, since I don't know if I'll ever use any other function on the device. But that's also ignorance talking, since I don't know enough about it.
Last edited by Quickshift_C5; 04-11-2019 at 04:31 PM.
I have a brake question, how can I keep my ABS from going berserk when autocrossing. ABS messes with me way too much. I much rather my 95 Camaro brakes lol.
Mostly a rhetorical question...I know this is a common issue. Its something I need to dig into more. Super annoying having ABS and or ice mode interfere.
I have a brake question, how can I keep my ABS from going berserk when autocrossing. ABS messes with me way too much. I much rather my 95 Camaro brakes lol.
Mostly a rhetorical question...I know this is a common issue. Its something I need to dig into more. Super annoying having ABS and or ice mode interfere.
It might have to do with your tire diameters if you're running a square setup, but it can also be from having pads that have too much friction (too much bite). Also don't take this the wrong way, but a lot has to do with the driver being too aggressive on the brake pedal. I know auto-x requires a different kind of aggressive driving than road course racing, but in my experience the guys who are getting heavy into the ABS are slower than if they drive smoother and just get into it occasionally.
It looks like the GM Tech2 is only $252? What does the MongoosePro give me that the Tech2 doesn't for twice the cost? Most of the codes will show up on the DIC or my basic OBDII scanner. You can't check for over-revs, but it told me what the ABS problem was.
I'm leaning toward taking it to the dealer, since I don't know if I'll ever use any other function on the device. But that's also ignorance talking, since I don't know enough about it.
The $252 Tech 2 isn't a real Bosch one, it's a Chinese knockoff. I've used one plenty and haven't had any issues with it, but it's not a real Tech 2 that GM will continually provide updates for. I haven't used Mongoose but have heard it works fine as well.
The $252 Tech 2 isn't a real Bosch one, it's a Chinese knockoff. I've used one plenty and haven't had any issues with it, but it's not a real Tech 2 that GM will continually provide updates for. I haven't used Mongoose but have heard it works fine as well.
I was just researching that a bit and came to the same conclusion, they are all Chinese. There were posts on this forum of people that didn't have such great luck. I think I'll go for the Mongoose if I do anything, but will likely have the dealer purge the system for now.
It looks like the GM Tech2 is only $252? What does the MongoosePro give me that the Tech2 doesn't for twice the cost? Most of the codes will show up on the DIC or my basic OBDII scanner. You can't check for over-revs, but it told me what the ABS problem was.
I'm leaning toward taking it to the dealer, since I don't know if I'll ever use any other function on the device. But that's also ignorance talking, since I don't know enough about it.
The mongoose pro can do tech 2 and Gds2 I believe so it would help if you get an newer car. Otherwise it's a waste of 250 bucks.
I have a 2001 ZO6 with APRacing Radi-CAL front brakes with Ferodo DS1.11. OEM rear hardware wish Ferodo DS.11 also. Last year, I fought with an intermittent ABS module until it eventually failed completely (left rear output sol was intermittent, and eventually stopped working). Wanting to avoid downtime (and not knowing at the time I could run without it), I just went ahead and finished the HPDE season with no ABS. Wasn't a huge deal.
I sent the ABS module to ABSFIXER, had it repaired, and am getting ready to re-install it. Not sure I'll have a chance to bring the car to a dealer to have them flush/cycle the ABS system, if that's even needed.
What can I do to flush/cycle the ABS to make sure there is no trapped air? Is it as simple as getting into ABS on the street several times to purge any air that may be in the system? I planned to do a full, normal system flush/bleed afterward.
If you removed the EBCM (ABS Module) from the Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV) and didn't open the BPMV you shouldn't need to worry about air getting into the BPMV. The EBCM is electrical with no fluid. If the BPMV was leaking fluid at the point where the EBCM was attached to it then you have a bigger problem.
Assuming all you did was remove and replace the EBCM the BPMV remained sealed and no air was introduced into it through the master cylinder or one or more brake caliper cylinders.
You can do a normal bleed without worrying about the little bit of old fluid that will be caught behind a valve or two inside the BPMV. There are some Autel OBD scanners that have the ability to command the BPMV valves to let you bleed every last bit of fluid out of the BPMV.
It might have to do with your tire diameters if you're running a square setup, but it can also be from having pads that have too much friction (too much bite). Also don't take this the wrong way, but a lot has to do with the driver being too aggressive on the brake pedal. I know auto-x requires a different kind of aggressive driving than road course racing, but in my experience the guys who are getting heavy into the ABS are slower than if they drive smoother and just get into it occasionally.
Pretty simple/common setup. 315 square Rival S, koni shocks and Hawk HPS pads FR/RR. I had been running HP+ Front and Duralate Gold Rear on my 95 Camaro. Those brakes were "dumb" and you could do anything you want lol. I didn't see HPS pads being particularly "aggressive" compared to what else is out there.
So no, I take no offence to my driving style. It's no Camaro by any means and I will 100% need to learn the C5. Still surprising how sensitive it is.
Those of you with APRacing brakes - What method are you using to push the pistons back so you can replace the pads?
Also, I've pretty much disintegrated the dust boot on the OEM C5 rear calipers. Not terribly worried about it since this is a 95% track car and will likely leave it for now. However, I am a little concerned about the inner seal. I imagine it's fine, but curious on another opinion. I figure I'll have to rebuild the caliper after this season. Not sure I should be concerned about the seal at this point yet or not.
Last edited by Quickshift_C5; 04-15-2019 at 12:11 AM.
As long as you clean the piston off with a good dose of CRC brake cleaner before you push it back into the cylinder there shouldn't be any issues due to dirt hurting the seal.
With the caliper still bolted in? Leveraging them in with old pads kind of worked, but it was suggested not to do that. I agree, but they seem pretty difficult to push in otherwise and even more so without unbolting the caliper.
I use this https://www.girodisc.com/Caliper-pis...er_p_5970.html . You'll still need a spacer, or worn out pad, when you put in new 25mm pads. The Girodisc spreader won't spread it quite enough. Otherwise it's a big time saver. Since I swap pads a couple of times a month it's worth it to me. If you're just doing it once or twice a season it's probably a waste.
With the caliper still bolted in? Leveraging them in with old pads kind of worked, but it was suggested not to do that. I agree, but they seem pretty difficult to push in otherwise and even more so without unbolting the caliper.
With the caliper bolted in. Without using the tool to push the pads back it is impossible to move the caliper. The pads have ears on them at top and bottom and I use the tool paddles to spread the pads far enough to get the pads out then insert the tool in the caliper to push in 4 pistons at once and then two pistons for a 6 piston caliper.
With the caliper bolted in. Without using the tool to push the pads back it is impossible to move the caliper. The pads have ears on them at top and bottom and I use the tool paddles to spread the pads far enough to get the pads out then insert the tool in the caliper to push in 4 pistons at once and then two pistons for a 6 piston caliper.
Bill
Ok, makes sense. I think I'll go ahead and grab that tool as well. Thanks Bill.
i see all combinations of calipers in front or behind the axle in front and rear. sometimest they are at 45°. i have not seen any on top or bottom.
how does the caliper location influence wheight transfer or squat and maybe roll when braking?
Old C3 is nearly on top. And a few Sport Racers are mounted completely on top.
Read some info years ago about braking effects on the vehicle when in such "odd" places but can't recall where. I think however at the end of the ultra tech discussion...it didn't matter enough to make any difference.
04-11-2019, 03:57 PM
