Bill Dearborn

One thing to try is to add some shims behind worn brake pads so the pistons don't stick out of the caliper as far. One thing I noticed on the SL6 calipers I ran on my C5 was the pistons cocking at an odd angle as the .8 in thick pads wore down. I used a combination of varying thickness shims to fill the space between the pads and the pistons and this kept the pistons in their cylinders which reduced them being at an angle to the cylinder when the pad thickness dropped to 50%. The other thing the shims seemed to do was cut the heat transfer from the pads to the pistons once the pads were worn down.

Bill

0Todd TCE

The DL is a fine caliper; used in the correct application...while they are fit to many muscle car kits I'd personally prefer a more robust part also. There are a couple of options for them, the billet ones being the least robust in my mind, the forged ones being preferred but not as sexy looking. All the DL parts can also be replaced by the closed bridge DP6 for an option. While not disagreeing with your assessment on them remember the model selection of the parts was not done by Wilwood by AA, who likely looked for the lowest cost option to build the car.

I've beat the crap out of them on dirt and pavement on my own ~1500lb car (with four wins on Pikes Peak where braking sorta matters) and have had no wear issues. I think Bill hit on it also regarding the pad wear plates being a good investment. Seeing that the DL has a very thin (again that right app issue) pad you can wear them down rather quickly which will lead to more rapid tapering and possible binding. *The DP6 addresses all that with a fixed bridge, roughly 30% more cubic inches of pad and a differential bore design for taper control.

I don't know how they are mounted or to what so when I speak of defection I'm even more suspicious of the mount plate than the caliper itself. Could be nothing, but I have not looked at one so can't say for certain.

Just more food for thought. Need something feel free to give me a ring.

argonaut

Thanks Bill and Todd. The shim idea sounds like its worth trying. Todd - do you sell or know where I can purchase shims?

0Todd TCE

Yes I do. HERE

argonaut

Great - Just placed my order for two sets.

Salsin

Can you help?!

The other day while backing out of the garage I heard a pop on the rear wheel like a caliper was stuck and then released. As I drove I could smell a burning brake smell. The peddle was going lower and lower every time I stopped and then finally went all the way to the floor, the light came on and I was left with no brakes. I got it home and checked the fluid and the master cylinder was still full.

The next day, the peddle was back and the light was off. I had the car towed to a shop but they can’t find the problem. I know it sounds like a M/C problem but that would not cause the brake burning smell?

Thanks

sal

mr.beachcomber

It would help to know the model year and stock performance level (e.g., base, Grand Sport, Z51, ZR1) of your Vette.

mikeCsix

Sounds like you boiled the brake fluid in one of your calipers as the pads had not retracted all the way.

Salsin

Sorry- it’s an 88 35th anniversary Vette

mr.beachcomber

I believe that MikeCsix's observation is correct. Since the '88 activates the rear brakes when the parking brake lever is applied, it's possible that the rear pads have been dragging due to an incomplete release. (I'd check the emergency brake's mechanical cable linkage and slider linkage on both rear brakes to make sure the rear brakes are releasing properly.) If you slowly heat soaked the rear brakes (or just one brake set that didn't release properly) to the brake fluid's boiling point, you will get the condition MikeCsix described. The burning brake pad smell was probably a stuck pad heating up the brake fluid to the point it boiled again. (Once boiled, the brake fluid must be changed out or it will continue to boil with normal use.) Hope this helps!

AKKutz

I'm looking for a rear pad for my C7 Z51 for the track. I run PFC fronts. The PFC rears I received were too long for my rear caliper (prob designed for the Z06/GS rear). I have been running the stock rears, but I want something that will hold up better. I've been working on stretching out my braking points and using more pedal.... I need more pad on the rear. Suggestions??

ErnieN85

I'm using Hawk Street/ Race pads from KNS They don't seem to be listed so you will have to call.
Tell Kevin I sent you

KNSBrakes

Are you using PFC-01 / 11 front?

AKKutz

01, Yes

Adam@Amp'dAutosport.com

Check out the Carbotech XP8 or XP10.

A high torque brake compound with a wide operating temperature range of 200°F-1250°F+ (93°C to 676°C+). Carbotech™ XP8™ is the first of our racing compounds. Good initial bite at race temperatures, high coefficient of friction, excellent modulation and release characteristics. Extremely high fade resistance and very rotor friendly. Perfect for track day use with any tire and can still be driven safely to and from the track. Carbotech™ does NOT recommended XP8™ as a daily driven street pad due to elevated levels of dust and noise. Carbotech™ XP8™ is a great compound on the front & rear of most open wheel and sports racers.

When Carbotech™ unleashed the XP10™ to the general public it immediately gathered multiple regional, divisional, and national championships. The XP10™ has a very strong initial bite with a coefficient of friction and rotor friendliness unmatched in the industry. Fade resistance is in excess of 1475°F (801°C). XP10™ still maintains the highly praised release, excellent modulation and rotor friendliness that have made all Carbotech™ compounds so successful. Carbotech™ XP10™ is not recommended as a daily-driven street pad due to possible elevated levels of dust and noise.

BrunoTheMellow

All c7s share the same rear pad size except CCB cars.

Jan_N

Hi,I’ve been using DTC70/60 combo on the stock calipers. Switched to AP racing calipers in the front and use Ferodo D1.11 on those so I matched these with the DS1.11 on the rear. The combo works great for me. I have used Carbotech XP12/10 but these seem to wear quicker. So my recommendation yo try DTC70/60 first (cheaper option) and DS1.11 if you feel the Hawk don’t bring you what you want. I do agree that Ken from KNS can help you with detailed comparison. It is all about compromise between initial bite, wear, and temperature range. I have seen star graphs comparing the most used racing pads but could not find it anymore.

By the way the stock non ceramic rear brakes for the GS/ZO6 are the same as far as I know so these should fit your caliper as well.
Hope that helps

AKKutz

Thanks...seems PFC doesn't make pads specifically for the C7.

I ordered some Hawks, see how they do. Paired with PFC fronts. Thanks gents.

Jan_N

I have found the website with the compound comparisons. It is not complete and PFC01 not Ferodo 1.11 are on it but it is a starting point for selection.

https://www.racetechnologies.com/brake-pad-comparison

Good luck

jbc20140

In changing from Brembo semi-metallic pads to carbon ceramic pads, is it necessary to scuff/sand the rotors?
I have gotten conflicting info to scuff or not scuff. Need some clear direction.
(C6 2013 GS)
THANKS!