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Back when my C4 was stock I tracked some HPS and thought I was going to die!
Overheated by the second lap at Road America.
i've ran the HPs on my car and hated them. i switched to the HP+ and the was happy with the performance at autocross levels. hps are just a street pad. i'm surprised you lived running hps at road america. that track is where the brake companys are make heros or zeros.
Originally Posted by Suns_PSD
You should measure moment of inertia compared to the oem rotor by spinning the rotor vs. Stock. The reality is the weight reduction is mostly at the hub where it doesn't make nearly as much difference.
spinning the rotor by hand isn't going to show much. you really need to get it rotating under load to show the difference.
I saw the video about about swapping between race and street pads. However, to start with, I'm going to switch between the HPS pads and some other street pad, in which case I don't think your technique will work. I was told that I could just use some sand paper on the rotors to clear off the old material. Is that the best way to do it?
By the numbers it would appear to be. But "better" is often a subjective term. If you don't boil the EXP you don't need the reported higher boiling point. It's not going to shorten your stopping distance. And my bet, like most high point fluids, is that it will have a shorter pot life than even the EXP and others. But "better" at 2X the price? That's the subjective part.
Here's the most comprehensive compilation of brake fluid data I'm aware of. Put together and edited often by one of my customers a few years ago it's insanely well organized.
Can someone explain to me what the extra "clamp" is on the right side of the rotor. I've seen it on a few different OEM setups and I've always wondered what was its purpose.
Can someone explain to me what the extra "clamp" is on the right side of the rotor. I've seen it on a few different OEM setups and I've always wondered what was its purpose.
Many manufacturers quote “Typical” boiling points – do not be deceived, this is not the minimum specification that you could receive. Rather, it can be the result of a test on a single sample. Boiling Point is of course not the whole story, with Brake Fluid it is essential to have the correct balance of properties to get a good overall result. Low Viscosity is very important to ensure a good bleed, low Compressibility is essential for a firm pedal and Lubricity is vitally important for efficiency, pedal return and life of the brake system.
C-70 400°-1600° F 800°-1200° F HIGH
DTC-60 400°-1600° F 700°-1100° F HIGH
HT-14 300°-1400° F 500°-1100° F HIGH
HT-10 300°-1300° F 500°- 1100° F HIGH
DTC-30 100°-1200° F 100°-800° F MEDIUM
Blue 9012 100°-1200° F 100°-800° F MEDIUM
Black 100°-900° F 200°-700° F MEDIUM
DTC-15 200°-800° F 300°-600° F MEDIUM
HP Plus 100°-800° F 300°-600° F LOW
DTC-05 100°-700° F 100°-50
It's not considered a motorsports pad even by Hawk.
I am not sure how hard the pads are pushed at Spring Mountain. The Corvette Owner's school course is a pretty basic course that is set up to instruct people on proper braking, cornering and the use of throttle steering in a safe environment. When I took the course speeds were limited to some degree. The more experienced students will be put in a group together but even then there is a big disparity in how fast they can drive. The instructor will let a fast driver push him faster but when the 4th car in line starts to fade in the distance it gets hard for the instructor to keep the group together. Once I got used to the course I found myself backing out of the throttle to keep from rear ending the instructor when I was the lead car and when I was tail end Charlie I just drove around the track at the pace of the guy in front of me which sometimes was pretty slow. It was interesting some times to be the lead car in the group and look in the mirror and not see anybody behind. When the group gets split up like that and it comes time to swap students the lead guy essentially pulls to the right, stops and waits for the other 3 to pass him and then pulls in behind. You don't need to be going super fast to learn some great things at the school and it is rare to see anything close to pushing the mid triple digit area.
not so fast. if you mix transfer layers your Mu will drop by 50%. make sure you remove old manufacture transfer layer. jeff released a video on how they do it. i say wash the rotor and let it get rusty. many ways of doing it. brake klean won't cut it though.
Brake fluid bottles typically list two different boiling points, “wet” and “dry”. Yet, they do not mention which, if either is more appropriate. The short answer for racers is: those who flush their fluid often should pay much more attention to the dry boiling point. Here is why: The wet boiling point might more appropriately be called a “very wet” boiling point. Yes, brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning that it tends to absorb moisture from the air to which it is exposed. But, the rating is based on about 3% water content in the fluid. If you live in an area where “muggy” is a common term, do not have bellows in the reservoir separating the fluid from the outside air, and you have not cracked open a bleed screw in two years, you might have a 3% water concentration. The wet boiling point is intended for OE applications where little attention is ever paid to the brake system once the car leaves the dealership.
Most racers flush or at least bleed their brakes much more frequently. The system is never totally free of water. However, the amount of water in the system is much less than 3%. Think more along the lines of 0.3%. If the dry bling point is 600 F and the wet boiling point is 400 F, then the recently flushed boiling point is likely around 580 F, which is much closer to the dry boing point.
If a reservoir does not have a set of bellows and the car is going into storage for more than a month, one should seal off the reservoir cap vent. A rubber band and plastic bag work well and are easily identified as needing to be removed before driving. This reduces water absorption. Otherwise, proper bellows do a good job on their own.
I'm going to take a WAG here and say there's no way you really have that many manufacturers of brake fluid either. My bet is a lot of those are rebadged from a limited number of suppliers or so with tiny, subtle changes or measured values sold as other brands.
I am not sure how hard the pads are pushed at Spring Mountain. The Corvette Owner's school course is a pretty basic course that is set up to instruct people on proper braking, cornering and the use of throttle steering in a safe environment. When I took the course speeds were limited to some degree. The more experienced students will be put in a group together but even then there is a big disparity in how fast they can drive. The instructor will let a fast driver push him faster but when the 4th car in line starts to fade in the distance it gets hard for the instructor to keep the group together. Once I got used to the course I found myself backing out of the throttle to keep from rear ending the instructor when I was the lead car and when I was tail end Charlie I just drove around the track at the pace of the guy in front of me which sometimes was pretty slow. It was interesting some times to be the lead car in the group and look in the mirror and not see anybody behind. When the group gets split up like that and it comes time to swap students the lead guy essentially pulls to the right, stops and waits for the other 3 to pass him and then pulls in behind. You don't need to be going super fast to learn some great things at the school and it is rare to see anything close to pushing the mid triple digit area.
Bill
That would go a long way to explain them using HPS pads I suppose.
The way you describe the laps is how it went at the BMW school at the new Thermal, CA track. Even in the fast group (students appointing themselves to faster/slow groups based on their own perception , there was quite a disparity.
At Spring Mountain, on the 3rd day of the Level 1 class and during the Level 2 class you are doing a lot more all-out track driving. The track layouts don't let you go much higher than 120's (Z06 can) but that doesn't mean you are not stressing the brakes.
New corvette owner (C5) and need advise on pads for track day use. I came from a 2013 Camaro with CTSV 6 piston fronts and stock 4 piston rears using the factory ferodo pads. with Motul fluid and brake cooling ducts I had no fade issues and very good braking on the track. I used these pads on the street also.
I don't know what pads are on the corvette now but they are fine on the street except for the dust. They are way to worn to take to the track so I need something ASAP. I have Doug Rippie cooling ducts in front and stock Z06 in the rear.
What would be a good pad for the first couple of track days with this car? I run in the advanced group at my track but not the fastest person out there. When I asked the previous owner what pads he used for track use he said "DTC70 or 60" but was kind of vague at the time so I don't know if it was 70 front/60 rear or just all 70 or all 60. I don't plan on pushing hard the first time out as I need to get familiar with a new car and it's capabilities but I also don't want to get any fade.
DTC 70 front with 60 rear is full on race setup. If you get fade with those, you'll get fade with anything. There are Carbotech (e.g., XP24), PFC (11), and Willwood (H) comoounds that also work well. Most can even get by with a step down from these for HPDE on tracks that don't have brake zones where you need to drop more than 80 Mph (e.g., Carbotech XP10).
04-21-2016, 10:28 PM
, there was quite a disparity.
