CJKC6

Correction - they are ~60%

SCOTTCM

Sorry if this is covered elsewhere. I have a 2016 Z06 with steel rotors, stock pads and about 8000 miles including 2 novice track days. I am going to some more track days so I had my pads changed with about 50% remaining on the fronts and 60% on the rear. I installed the same stock GM pads and did not change the rotors.

Do I need to go through the whole burnishing procedure since I did not change the rotors and I am using the same pad material as before?

Thank you.

mikeCsix

Yep, in fact I would sand the rotors to put a surface on them and then burnish for best performance. The new pad material has to be conditioned plus you'll be depositing new material onto the rotors. To not do so risks glazing the pads and/or creating hard spots on the rotors.

mikeCsix

Regardless of looks, your brakes are only as effective as your tires ability to stop the car. If you want to upgrade, I would seriously consider going to the Z-51 optioned setup. It's OEM, cheaper, and sized correctly for your street tires. As a bonus, you'll have many pad options to select from. The rear rotors are a little larger so may be more to your taste.

Instead of duralast pads, GM makes ceramic pads that will work fine.

Squealing brakes? At least you know they are working!

JRitt@essex

First, make sure you have some good fluid. AP Racing R2 would be a good choice for all conditions road and track (DOT compliant).

For pads, our recommendation would be to get some good race pads and swap them in for track days. One of the most popular options among our big brake kit customers is the Ferodo DS1.1 They are kind to discs, last a long time, and are generally pretty easy to bed-in/burnish.
As a complementary pad for sport/road use, we offer the Ferodo DS2500. One of the great things about swapping between the DS2500 and DS1.11 is that you don't have to do a full bed-in every time you change pads. The two compounds are made from the same core materials, and can be interchanged without fear of judder and vibration, which can be a problem when swapping across street and track pad brands.

Ferodo DS1.11 for front C7 Z06

Ferodo DS1.11 for rear C7 Z06

Ferodo DS2500 for front C7 Z06

Ferodo DS2500 for rear C7 Z06

We produced a video on swapping between street and track pads a few years ago. I think this may help you understand what you're trying to accomplish when trying to scrub your discs clean and lay down a transfer layer of the new pad material on the disc face:

Poor-sha

A couple of things. First, listen to Jeff That said, I'll offer my experience as I've got a few track days on the C7 Z06 including with the stock iron setup (I run the AP Racing endurance kit now).

I'd really recommend switching to another pad like Jeff recommends as the stock pads just aren't up to the weight and speed potential of the C7Z. Even as a novice the car will put a lot of heat in the brakes and the stock pads will simply go away (you push and push and car doesn't slow). Even a novice can go well over 150 MPH at a track like VIR and then you have to slow ~4000 lbs of car/driver/passenger lap after lap.

I like the DS 1.11 as a dedicated track pad as it feels very much like stock but will really hold up to hard track use within the limits of the overall OEM system. However, the DS 2500 also work surprisingly well for a dual purpose pad and I've run track days with them in a pinch without issue and I also run them as my street pad with the AP Racing kit.

I've reached the point where I've started running the DS 2500 rear and DS 1.11 front combo on track as it works even as hard as I am on brakes and it eliminates the need to swap out the rear pads between events.

Now if you really want to slap another set of stock pads on and go to the track you don't need to burnish the brakes again to put down a transfer layer because it's already there. However, the stock pads have a nasty tendency to gas off really badly the first time they get hot and the effect is that you will again be pushing really hard on the pedal and car won't be stopping. It's pretty scary if you're not ready for it but after a gentle half lap or so they will be fine as long as you don't overheat them. So, I would recommend going through something like the burnishing procedure just to get them to gas off in a situation where you are ready for it and are presumably at a much lower speed (it's quite exciting to have this happen as you approach turn 1 at VIR at 150+).

If it were my car and my money, assuming you are a novice, I would buy a set of DS 2500 from Essex and some quality brake fluid like the AP or Castrol SRF. Put them in and go out and burnish them properly, then use that as your dual street/track setup.

As you advance, move up to the DS 1.11 for track use (at least in front) and when you're tired of running through pads and rotors so quickly go get the AP Racing endurance kit. Now this is a brake pad

dfettero

I want to upgrade my 2016 base model Stingray to Z-51 brake calipers, rotors (probably DBA 4000 series) , splash shield. What are the part numbers?

I wil also add the Z-06 grill and cooling ducts.

KNSBrakes

I think you should email Cultrag on that. It is a pretty long list and you have color choices etc.

KNSBrakes

There are already a pretty good variety of race pads out there to get a good range of friction choices. We also have rotor rings for when those are needed.

http://www.knsbrakes.com/c/car-items...ace+Brake+Pads

Adam@Amp'dAutosport.com

Yes, the new pads need to be bedded (De-gased)

kdm123

Will this setup upset the balance between front and rear, meaning that the rear brakes won't contribute as much to the braking as the fronts:

Rear: stock-diameter, rotor, stock caliper, race-compound pad (same as front)
Front: 14-inch-diameter rotor, Wilwood Aero6 caliper, race-compound pad (same as rear)

0Todd TCE

What stock diameter rotor? 12...13...13.4? And there were slight differences in rear piston size depending upon the year the rotor is paired with.

The Aero swap (pads excluded) will (like nearly all BBK front calipers) be nearly identical in piston area to the stock calipers. Two or six pots. If you changed from a smaller front rotor- that's your real change in bias/torque not the caliper.

A fair question but right now you aren't supplying enough info.

kdm123

I believe the front '03 rotor was a 12.6, and rear 11.8, right?

dfettero

C7 base to Z51 brake upgrade kit available from Chevy performance. No issue.

QUOTE=kdm123;1596319071]Will this setup upset the balance between front and rear, meaning that the rear brakes won't contribute as much to the braking as the fronts:

Rear: stock-diameter, rotor, stock caliper, race-compound pad (same as front)
Front: 14-inch-diameter rotor, Wilwood Aero6 caliper, race-compound pad (same as rear)[/QUOTE]

0Todd TCE

At the end of the day the proposed mix is not going to create any issues. We can run the math on it with all the variables factored and you'll probably be seeing about a 1% change from one plan to the next. Like was the case with the slight bump in rear diameter which was actually a tad under 1%.

At thees numbers you can tune it more with the pads (a swing of up to 5% is possible) and determine what's best for your needs.

Mjolitor 68

This isn’t a question, more of a story. I was at Daytona HSR on 2nd day going down back straight doing near 180 mph+. I went for brakes at bus stop and my foot went to floor causing a second of pure terror.
I went straight thru bus stop but 2 cars were in chicane about 70mph slower. Luckily they came out before I did. I steered her low in banking and stayed there till the banking flattened out then I steered her into pits still doing like 60 mph.
I started hitting brakes and they were weak but I was able to stop by the pits.

Crew Chief later told me that a new left rear wheel bearing had failed causing the rear calipers to not touch the discs. I may have had front brakes but they were too weak to slow the car much at ludicrous speed.

So there’s a story about how brakes can fail.

Joshboody

My rear pads wear more than the fronts.
2001 C5 coupe
Front WW narrow SL6 and stock rear with ST43s

01 fluid distribution is LR/RR and RF/LR, so 50/50 split “unless” wheel speed warrants DRP. So you’d wear more in the rear unless DRP was active correct?

I’m a fairly light braker and rarely feel ABS. So think I’m not braking hard enough to wear fronts like most. Any thoughts?

kdm123

I have a question on how to best care for brake calipers.

I frequently replace brake pads since I do a lot of track days. When I'm doing that, should I spray the exposed area of the pistons before retracting them? Does it matter? Is there anything else I can do to care for the caliper? Also, while I'm replacing pads, what should I be examining on the caliper, other than looking for obvious leaks.

kdm123

What is the difference between a two-piece floating rotor and a two-piece fixed rotor?

tmtraylor

I didn't find that a brake cleaner or similar helped much with brake junk on the caliper pistons. I would clean the piston with a nylon brush or toothbrush to try to not put that stuff back into the caliper when you push them back in. Tough to get to the back side of the piston though and would end up using a cloth pulled behind the piston and pull back and forth. Not sure how effective that is.

Double check the rubber boots on the sliding pins, clean and repack the grease in the pins if its torn and replace the boots.

When I ran the factory calipers, I would make sure the copper "springs" didn't have any deep gouges or ridges that might impede the pad from sliding.

I put a little temperature paint on the vanes for the rotor and the visible part of the pad backing plate to keep an eye on max temps.

Good luck!