When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I need to replace the pads on my z06. I just noticed that my rotors have these cracks that I can feel with my thumbnail. Should I replace my rotors at the same time?
I need to replace the pads on my z06. I just noticed that my rotors have these cracks that I can feel with my thumbnail. Should I replace my rotors at the same time?
That looks like it is getting close. And you certainly have some pad smear.
I need to replace the pads on my z06. I just noticed that my rotors have these cracks that I can feel with my thumbnail. Should I replace my rotors at the same time?
If it were me and my car, I wouldn't be in a terribly big hurry to replace it if I was driving on the street. If I was driving on the track however, I'd get a fresh one.
If it were me and my car, I wouldn't be in a terribly big hurry to replace it if I was driving on the street. If I was driving on the track however, I'd get a fresh one.
That is the kind of situation where I used to carry some spares with me and then run the heat checked rotor until it was much closer to cracking. A lot of times I found I could get a day or two out of something like that. However, if you don't have the spare you know it won't last, just the way things are.
That is the kind of situation where I used to carry some spares with me and then run the heat checked rotor until it was much closer to cracking. A lot of times I found I could get a day or two out of something like that. However, if you don't have the spare you know it won't last, just the way things are.
Bill
Yeah I'm thinking it might be better to go ahead and swap them out before a weekend at VIR. That probably makes more sense than having to do it at the track with limited tools etc.
Yeah I'm thinking it might be better to go ahead and swap them out before a weekend at VIR. That probably makes more sense than having to do it at the track with limited tools etc.
They look ready! Mine would probably make it a day but I doubt 2 and who know's what the weather will be like. I'd hate to have them fail at the track and then lose the rest of the weekend.
FWIW I'd keep running them but I always carry spare pads and rotors to the track. I use the spares for street pads so I don't have to mess with bedding them normally when going from street to track. If I need them at the track though I can just throw them on and bed the track pads.
I recently purchased a 74 C3 that has sat for 10 years. Pedal went straight to the floor. Pulled all four wheels. Noticed front left caliper was leaking. Removed and had both front calipers rebuilt. New brake lines and had rotors turned. Rear brakes seemed fine. Bled brakes the conventional way with wife pressing the pedals...back brakes would not bleed..I went to front brakes and they bled fine. Have about 2/3 pedal. Reopened rear bleeder valves but still no fluid.. Had wife push pedal as hard as she could but no juice..... Any help would be useful.. Headed to garage now to remove rear brake lines from calipers to see is I have fluid to them. Noticed 2 bleeders on rear brakes..Any sequence to bleeding them? HELP
Thanks. SP
The fronts didn't have two bleeders? I thought all stock C2/C3 calipers had two bleeders but the last time I worked on a C3 was over 30 years ago. I can't remember the GM instructions for bleeding the C3 brakes but their instruction for the newer C6 and C7 fixed calipers is to bleed the inner first. However, some aftermarket companies like Wilwood say to do the outer first. I have been using the outer sequence on my stock C6Z and C7Z brakes with no issues.
Hopefully, you get your fluid problem resolved. Were the front calipers stainless steel lined? I wouldn't trust any caliper that hasn't at least had a stainless steel lining installed. Of course you can also get into the discussion of lip seal vs O ring seal. The stock lip seal is better from a brake performance stand point whereas the O ring is more durable. If you are going to use the car for some autocross or track events the lip seal would probably work better.
The fronts didn't have two bleeders? I thought all stock C2/C3 calipers had two bleeders but the last time I worked on a C3 was over 30 years ago. I can't remember the GM instructions for bleeding the C3 brakes but their instruction for the newer C6 and C7 fixed calipers is to bleed the inner first. However, some aftermarket companies like Wilwood say to do the outer first. I have been using the outer sequence on my stock C6Z and C7Z brakes with no issues.
Hopefully, you get your fluid problem resolved. Were the front calipers stainless steel lined? I wouldn't trust any caliper that hasn't at least had a stainless steel lining installed. Of course you can also get into the discussion of lip seal vs O ring seal. The stock lip seal is better from a brake performance stand point whereas the O ring is more durable. If you are going to use the car for some autocross or track events the lip seal would probably work better.
Bill
Thanks Bill, I had Vette Brakes in St.Petersburg, Fl rebuild the calipers. Lip seal I believe. Worked for 3 hours today and did get fluid to the right rear. The left rear is still a mystery. I will break the line where the rear splits and try to blow the line out with air. Thanks for your reply.
Clearly alignment between rotor vs pad. Did you properly lubricate where you are supposed to? Did you use the correct caliper hardware?
For a while I ran without the (stainless steel spring steel) hardware and did not even realize it (rears).
Thanks, this makes sense. Maybe worn spring plate. I also have 1 backing plate spacer stacked on the inside and not outside... maybe this has an effect.
02-09-2018, 12:27 PM
