Poor-sha

I can't recommend the AP Racing kit enough. I don't think you need the rear kit but the front kit really makes a huge difference. I don't have any first hand experience with the PFC pads though and it's tough to equate brake life between drivers. For starters, most events I'm running 7-8 sessions not the typical 4 sessions - I know you're at the VIR Club events though so you may be getting more too. The other thing is that I am *very* hard on brakes and that necessarily creates faster wear.

If you don't want to drop the money on front and rear, just get the front kit and run that for a while. The main reason for getting the rear kit is just to save a little unsprung weight and for style points.

badhabit_wb

I'll probably end up getting front and rear because it will drive me crazy looking at the yellow in back and black in front. I'm using Raybestos but they really haul the car down a lot faster than the stock pads.
I was using xp-12 carbotech's before and the st-43's have a lot more bite and are lasting twice as long. I'm going to run at VIR again tomorrow if it doesn't rain so maybe that will help me decide. If I have any brake issues at all I'm going to go ahead and call Jeff. The rotors that cracked in 3 days got me nervous.
Thanks for the help.

fatbillybob

To the vendors what is available for C7's?

C7 Z51's already have 4 piston Brembo calipers? Are they good to race on? Can we just add aftermarket floating rotors and race pads and be good to go with factory horsepower on road courses? I'm thinking SCCA T1 limited or full prep class as a national competitor racing around the country.

Can the 6 piston Brembo's off the C7Z06 bolt right on using same Z51 rear calipers and Z51 master cylinder? Is going to C7Z06 1" larger rotors a big plus or just extra rotating mass on a stock powered Z51?

Thanks!

KNSBrakes

The C7 Z51 brakes are better than C5/C6 stock brakes but the car is still under-braked if racing or tracking hard on race tires. Big tires, big power so big heat.

Pad and rotor wear is high and the brake fluid boils easily.

The front pad shape is very common so there are many options. The staked on weights are unnecessary.


The front rotors are not common yet. GM has 1 piece and DBA/KNS has 1 and 2 piece. Other aftermarket rotors seem a bit slow coming probably since GM started with the co-cast 2 piece.

The rear pad shape was new but there are suitable options now just not as many as the front shape.

The rear rotors are also the co-cast. DBA/KNS have 1 piece replacements.

0Todd TCE

Wilwood has the popular 14.25" Aero kits available for them as well as 15" front kits if wheel space allows. The C7 has a different mount spec then the C5/6 I do believe so swapping from the earlier car is out of the question.

Depending up on budget and options you can do a full four wheel kit, shipped, for about $3500.

Custom options; colors, thermlock pistons etc all available as well.

JRitt@essex

We have 2-piece AP Racing J Hook discs for the C7 Z51, front and rear.

We also have an array of complete front and rear brake kits.

You can see all of our options here:

https://www.essexparts.com/my-vehicl...t/Corvette/Z51

I'd be happy to walk you through some options depending on your budget and goals for the car. Feel free to shoot me an email or call me at 704-824-six zero three zero.

Thanks!

badhabit_wb

Jeff just want to thank you for your advice and help today. Can't wait to get it all installed. Hopefully I can maintain my sanity when I do the rear.

Sean thanks for giving me another push. I went ahead and ordered front and rear. Might as well do it all at the same time.

Ed'sC7

I have a question regarding brake pads for a 2017 GS with Carbon Ceramic rotors. I currently track this car and use the OE Delco pads. Are there better pads at less cost that i can use instead of these expensive OE pads? Even if just switching out for track days.

Ed

Bill Dearborn

Nothing lower cost but there are Pagid Race Pads made to work with Ceramic Rotors:
Front are Pagid U8091
Rear are Pagid U4906

Pagid Compound for the OEM Cup2 Tires is RSC-1.
If you look through this thread you will see that JohnnyC posted that info a couple of years ago.

Have you checked Amazon Prices for the stock replacement AC Delco Pads? If you have been buying at the dealership Amazon may give your the price break you are looking for.

Front Rotor Part Number: 20981825 (ROTOR, RIGHT & Left)
Front Brake Pads Part Number: 23198733 (FRONT PADS) superseded by P/N 23316708
ACDelco Part Number is 171-1186

C6 ZR1 Front Brake Pad ACDelco 171-1010 GM OEM Front Disc Brake Pad Kit: Fits C7 but Wear Sensor wires are too short and have to be spliced to old C7 wires to work.
C6 ZR1 Front Rotor will fit C7 Z06/Z07 Front === ACDelco 177-1120 GM Original Equipment Front Disc Brake Rotor OEM Part #: 22805791

C7
Rear Brake Rotor Part Number: 20981826 (ROTOR, RIGHT & Left)
Rear Brake Pad Part Number: 23198750 (REAR PADS) ACDelco 171-1143 GM Original Equipment Rear Disc Brake Pad Set

Bill

Ed'sC7

Coolvet

This question is off topic but I'm wondering if you can give me some guidance of what master cylinder sizes I should install on a 1969 C3 Corvette 427 race car. The car has 4 spot calipers all round with 1 7/8" pistons on the front and 1 3/8" pistons on the rear. I am fitting a dual master cylinder system with adjustable bias, so what cylinder sizes should I install?

Thanks

Coolvet

badhabit_wb

I'd just use a stock master cylinder for that year model.

mikeCsix

Stock sizes would be a good start.

0Todd TCE

Pretty obvious that nobody is reading what you wrote.

Bore sizes will be based on a number of factors. One of the main ones being how hard you want to push.

Off the top of my head....a 1" front and 3/4 or 13/16 rear seems about right. Guessing a bit that should be about 50/50 maybe to allow the adjuster to come into play. That's a pretty big split (like the piston sizes) so be sure there's no pivot binding. Or consider larger bore rear calipers requiring less line pressure.

Overall figure a larger pair means you push harder. A smaller pair push with less effort.

While I did not spend any time on it try this;
http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/dual-bias-calc/

nickpe

can i replace my c4 front brakes with c5...if so what do i need

X25

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-150-pads.html

hemmerman

Johnnie C:: im having issues with CC brakes. I get a warning message every start up saying "warn brakes" Chevy dealer here in middle TN is baffled. Im a GM employee and know some folks in Corvette quality. I wrote to one manager in Corvette brand quality in Warren MI. he tells me its probably one of the front pad sencers. Also another issue something is rubbing the wheel weights off the inside of the wheel about two inches in from the inside. . thanks for any help

Bill Dearborn

You could easily have an issue with one of the brake wear sensors. They are attached to the inside pad in all 4 calipers. You can pull the wheels and inspect each pad and each sensor. The sensors are nothing but a phenolic block with a wire running through it and are mounted on the edge of the inside pad. When the pad is worn sufficiently the sensor starts rubbing against the rotor and the phenolic is worn away. When the wear gets down to the point the rotor is hitting the wire the wire breaks and you get a warning on the dash. Sometimes a sensor isn't placed correctly on the pad and it wears through too early or something else interrupts the circuit like a broken sensor wire between the caliper and the circuit connector that is located on the cradle. The connector could also be loose.

Of course a pad could be worn as well. Most of it is easy to check just by removing the wheels.

As for something rubbing the wheel weights on the wheel 2 inches from the inside I can't imagine what that might be if you are running the stock wheels. They should be large enough in diameter to clear the upper ball joint in the UCA. You should pull the wheel where you are seeing the weights being rubbed and check all around the suspension to see if there is something sticking out that would hit the wheel in that area.

It could be your two problems are related to the same cause so check the front pads and sensors but also check for something being where it shouldn't be.
Bill

Bruce Powelson

I've tried pumping the pedal, gravity bleed, pressure bleed, tilting the rears vertical, replacing the master that was also bench bled, hitting the calipers with a rubber mallet and still have a soft pedal. It goes almost to the floor. Have manual brakes. Using Dot 4 fluid and have gone through more than 2 quarts. Proportioning valve (only a distribution block in 68) isn't turning on the bake light so seems OK. What else is there to try?

fatbillybob

Discounting wheel sizes are c5 big brake kits ok to move to c6 cars? The uprights are the same. What about master cylinder diameters or part numbets the same?