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Front wheels locking up

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Old 08-31-2015, 10:22 PM
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SinisterC6
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Default Front wheels locking up

I have a C6 coupe that has been upgraded to Z06 Calipers, two piece rotors, SS lines about 10k miles ago. Very happy with my brakes.

Recently changed to AX6 pads from carbotech for road racing and find I can now lock my front wheels unless I ease into the brakes like I was in rain.

I bedded the pads and new rotor combo right after install, is this a normal result of an aggressive pad or a reason to re bed the system?

Thanks.
Old 08-31-2015, 10:53 PM
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r0nd3L
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I guess the first question people will ask is what tires are you running?

I'm actually having same problem with stock C5 brakes, Raybestos ST-43 pads, and R888 tires. I have to be super delicate with the pedal to not engage the ABS.
Old 08-31-2015, 10:55 PM
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SinisterC6
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275 35 18 r888s with 5k miles and 4/32 threads left
Old 09-01-2015, 07:22 AM
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sccaGT1racer
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When you upgraded to zo6 front calipers and rotors what was done to the rear braking sytem and master cylinder?
Old 09-01-2015, 08:13 AM
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SouthernSon
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When my ABS unit on my C5Z failed I sent it to ABSFixer. I no longer engage the ABS to any detectable degree. I don't know if it is because of possible better ABS engagement now or if I have learned to conserve more momentum into a turn or, possible, a combination of both. BTW, I run upgraded 6 piston Wilwood calipers w/ Hawk DTC70's and Hoosiers (with the occasional R888's or Nitto 01's).
Old 09-01-2015, 08:34 AM
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SinisterC6
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Originally Posted by sccaGT1racer
When you upgraded to zo6 front calipers and rotors what was done to the rear braking sytem and master cylinder?
Rear is also z06 calipers, 2 piece rotors and AX6 pads but does not lock up
Old 09-01-2015, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by SinisterC6
I have a C6 coupe that has been upgraded to Z06 Calipers, two piece rotors, SS lines about 10k miles ago. Very happy with my brakes.

Recently changed to AX6 pads from carbotech for road racing and find I can now lock my front wheels unless I ease into the brakes like I was in rain.

I bedded the pads and new rotor combo right after install, is this a normal result of an aggressive pad or a reason to re bed the system?

Thanks.
Are you Auto X or just road racing? The Ax6 is not really a road race pad it is an Auto X pad that's why it has so much initial bite its designed to work from dead cold.
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Old 09-01-2015, 10:33 AM
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SinisterC6
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Originally Posted by Adam@Amp'dAutosport.com
Are you Auto X or just road racing? The Ax6 is not really a road race pad it is an Auto X pad that's why it has so much initial bite its designed to work from dead cold.
AX6 was their recommendation.

I do half mile drag racing and while I use a chute for 200mph+ stops I wanted a stronger pad to slow me down. Not complaining that I have too much braking power just want to be certain I didn't cause this through my bedding procedure

---
Anticipated response: How did you bed?
---

Per carbotech I got out on the road and warmed the system up with a few miles of street driving followed by highway. I did 8 60-5mph hard stops until I noticed fade and brake smell. I drove for 20 minutes highway without stopping or using brakes at all
Old 09-01-2015, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by SinisterC6
AX6 was their recommendation.

I do half mile drag racing and while I use a chute for 200mph+ stops I wanted a stronger pad to slow me down. Not complaining that I have too much braking power just want to be certain I didn't cause this through my bedding procedure

---
Anticipated response: How did you bed?
---

Per carbotech I got out on the road and warmed the system up with a few miles of street driving followed by highway. I did 8 60-5mph hard stops until I noticed fade and brake smell. I drove for 20 minutes highway without stopping or using brakes at all
this is why i hate carbotech. transfer layer washes away easily. you'll need to go threw the bead in process (and let them cool) every time before you use them.

if your front brakes are locking up it is from too much front bias. remember that brakes work as a system, pads and calipers are components. so we will need to find a balance that works with your system. I would look into some higher temp pads. being that your doing 200mhp runs i wouldn't mess around with autocross pads i would go for a full race pad.

Last edited by johnny c; 09-01-2015 at 11:36 AM.
Old 09-01-2015, 11:37 AM
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https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...questions.html

here is some light reading on how brakes work.
Old 09-01-2015, 11:38 AM
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They should be fine and that's what I would have recommended for what you are doing.
Old 09-01-2015, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Adam@Amp'dAutosport.com
They should be fine and that's what I would have recommended for what you are doing.
do you know what temperature a rotor needs to get to to dissipate 200mph of energy with a 300lbs car?

A6x has a max operating temperature of 1000*, i've seen 1000* on a car going 1/2 that fast. mind you drag racers drag the pedal, so that can multiply the temperature by 4.
Old 09-01-2015, 01:47 PM
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I too just went to a more aggressive pad, and would engage ABS on the front at a much softer peddle pressure then I was use to. Give your self some time to adapt to them. My old brake set up was a total street system.

Mark
Old 09-01-2015, 02:24 PM
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SinisterC6
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Originally Posted by Johnny C @ OG
this is why i hate carbotech. transfer layer washes away easily. you'll need to go threw the bead in process (and let them cool) every time before you use them.

if your front brakes are locking up it is from too much front bias. remember that brakes work as a system, pads and calipers are components. so we will need to find a balance that works with your system. I would look into some higher temp pads. being that your doing 200mhp runs i wouldn't mess around with autocross pads i would go for a full race pad.
No really a problem but if it amends the problem I will bed them before aggressive driving

No to race pads, I street drive this car about 6k miles a year and will start making runs on the tail of the dragon

Originally Posted by Johnny C @ OG
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...questions.html

here is some light reading on how brakes work.
I am aware how hey work lol, I do not know where the bias adjustment is on our vehicles tho

Originally Posted by Adam@Amp'dAutosport.com
They should be fine and that's what I would have recommended for what you are doing.
I agree

Originally Posted by Johnny C @ OG
do you know what temperature a rotor needs to get to to dissipate 200mph of energy with a 300lbs car?

A6x has a max operating temperature of 1000*, i've seen 1000* on a car going 1/2 that fast. mind you drag racers drag the pedal, so that can multiply the temperature by 4.
Hot enough to glow red but not hot enough to damage the caliper paint

I began to hot spot which was the indication for a chute

Originally Posted by Moto One
I too just went to a more aggressive pad, and would engage ABS on the front at a much softer peddle pressure then I was use to. Give your self some time to adapt to them. My old brake set up was a total street system.

Mark
Perfect recommendation, thank you and will do
Old 09-01-2015, 03:02 PM
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johnny c
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Originally Posted by SinisterC6

Hot enough to glow red but not hot enough to damage the caliper paint

I began to hot spot which was the indication for a chute

Rotors will start to glow at 900*. if you say no to race pads you have made your own choice. you should think about making out a will.
Old 09-01-2015, 03:11 PM
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You will not need to re-bed them.
Old 09-01-2015, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Adam@Amp'dAutosport.com
You will not need to re-bed them.
Thank you, that's what I wanted to know.

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