Racingswh

A friend of mine was kind enough to give me the APR wing off of his C6Z. I am going to mount it to the chassis similar to the way we see other wings mounted underneath and up through the bumper cover.

It's going on a C6Z and I was going to mount it with the leading edge of the wing equal in height to the top of the rear hatch glass when the wing is flat with no angle of attack an inch or so below the actual roof line. Is there any issue with that? I see the new C7R's and the Vipers that won the championship last year have wings similar in height. The C6R's look lower to me for some reason? Any comments or opinions on height are welcomed.

The APR wing has it's mounting points much further outboard than other wings so they can be deck mounted. It looks like I might lose the outside rear tail lights when chassis mounting this wing which is fine. The inner brake lights will be retained. Can anyone think of anything else that may be problematic mounting a wing that supposed to be deck mounted to the chassis?

Thanks for any thoughts or suggestions you may have.

StreetSpeed

I'm no expert, but generally the higher you mount the wing the more effective it is because it is working in cleaner air. Most APR wings I've seen are 3D wings, so the higher section in the middle should be helpful in getting above the turbulent air coming off your roof. So will it be a problem to mount it at the roof line, I would say definitely not, but it may be better to mount it higher if possible. Do you have mounts for this wing or will you have to make some?

Here is my thread I started when I mounted my wing on my C5Z a few weeks ago. Not exactly what you're doing, but might be of some use to you.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...with-tips.html

coffey

Keep in mind any of the pro cars are mounting the wings according to the rules in their class which is generally no higher then the roof and no farther back then the rear edge of the bumper. Like Streetspeed said though, higher is better. So is farther back.

Racingswh

Have to make the mounts. Similar to the way yours is mounted except outboard further. The APR wing looks just like the wing in your thread post #20.

Rules for NASA STU/1 and TTU/1 look to be no more than 8" ABOVE the roofline which made me laugh a little because that would be way up in the air. Please correct me if I am reading that wrong.

I am aware after some research and rules review that the factory efforts wing heights are rules regulated as I expected. Since I am not governed by those same rules I could go higher but the issue I have with a really high wing is compromised stability and safety which isn't acceptable.

I read in an older post Redtopz wing is slightly below the roofline of his car. Being that he's one of the fastest guys in the country in that car leads me to believe in addition to him just being a great Driver that his setup is great as well and the wing is working pretty well at that height.

I think the wing height at the roof line will be ok and hopefully with some angle of attack adjustability I can get all the downforce I will ever need. If I am wrong about that please feel free to tell me I am making a mistake.

Thank you for the comments and insight!

StreetSpeed

Yes you'll certainly be able to tune the wing to produce more downforce than you would ever want (i.e. understeering everywhere in high speed turns and throwing out the anchor in the straight sections).

8'' above the roofline is indeed correct for NASA. I've seen some dudes with some pretty high wings, but I don't think anywhere near that high.

You have something planned for the front to balance out the rear?

Good luck!

Racingswh

Thanks! I will put up some pics tomorrow. Car should be completely finished in a couple weeks. Then it's just learning to drive it again.

brkntrxn

I would highly encourage you to contact APR about their recommended placement of their wing. A 3D wing is not necessarily going to be more efficient or effective just by putting it up into "cleaner" air. I seem to recall when selecting mine that theirs was meant to be down behind the roofline in order to interact with the air flowing over and around the car.

Racingswh

Thank you for taking the time to respond. Good advice. I will do exactly that tomorrow. Timing is good as the height will be set tomorrow and uprights fabricated. Thanks again.

Nice work at VIR BTW. Sub 2 is rolling and you had been shooting at that for awhile. Congrats!

Lawdogg

My apr wing is decklid mounted and slightly below roof height. At the least angle of attack it creates more downforce than I can use with LG's splitter with undertray and a World Challenge vented hood on the front of the car.

brkntrxn

Thanks!

brkntrxn

I agree. I have very little angle of attack in my wing in order to even out my front aero package.

Racingswh

You were exactly right according to APR. I spoke with them today and they suggested I use the APR decklid upright as the template for height and angle of attack so that's what we are doing. They said they believed that to be the best height for the wing and where it works the best.

Here's where it is so far. I told Nate I wanted the uprights safe and sturdy. He took me pretty seriously.

Of note outside tail lights still operational. Looks like magic but there is just enough space on the backside of the lamp for the upright.



Rough cut upright. Final cutting, shaping and drilling tomorrow.





Once finished I am taking everything disassembled including the car for paint. Uprights will be a matte black like the front splitter. Finished product should look ok and be functional.

Thanks to everyone here for their comments and pictures in their threads. Also Anthony at LG gets an honorable mention for pics that showed "How To" on a C6. Made this job way faster and easier than expected.

brkntrxn

I am quoting this to show my wife.

Racingswh

Does anyone make a block out plate for the third brake light hole (s)? My guess is no and I will make one. I just don't see a reason to put that stock lip on and disrupt airflow under the wing. Splitting hairs I know.

Scratch that. I will use abs plastic as a plate and then have my body guy fill and blend before he sprays it. Probably won't even see it.

Racingswh

Here's the finished product before paint. Any thoughts always appreciated.















Should work fine. I was happy with the way the uprights turned out.

blkbrd69

May try a bit of aero taper front and rear. What thickness is that 1/2"?

StreetSpeed

Nicely done. Looks plenty stout, that's for sure. Curious what did you pay to have the uprights designed and machined?

Racingswh

They will get the taper. In the interest of time I wanted it together for the event next week. Over the off season all the finishing touches will happen. Finally so close to being done.

In regards to cost if design and fabrication time is respected at $150 - $200 per hour I would expect a one off of something like this would cost north of 3k. I learned recently a good friend is at $225 an hour for his design and fabrication services.

I have a company that is motorsports related and we will run the fabricators company name on the car so it was considerably less.

StreetSpeed

Shooooo well for 3Gs it better be stout! I thought you were gonna say someone fabbed that up for $900 which is about all I can get for a day's work at my shop @ amt-machine.com. I need to start charging more.

Racingswh

Your skill is rare if your accuracy and quality of workmanship is high. What you do takes times and thought. You absolutely should get paid for it.

This is not an inexpensive pastime we have chosen.