Road race Corvette C4 ... Updated 85
#21
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Thread Starter
A special "THANKS" goes out to
rfn026
CF Senior Member
you had numerous posts and articles that were really helpful for my build
Paul Loeffelholz
rfn026
CF Senior Member
you had numerous posts and articles that were really helpful for my build
Paul Loeffelholz
#22
Safety Car
I'm truly flattered. Thank you so much for the kind words.
Richard Newton
Richard Newton
#23
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Thread Starter
Even though i have the spec sheet for this 355 chevy engine, its the only thing I haven't touched yet. I've pulled it and headed to an engine dyno at JSR engines in Watford ont.
I need to know what i'm actually working with hp/torque wise before i make any decisions . It will give me a chance to clean up the engine bay and make my front bumper removable so i can get the hoist in from the front of the car .
I need to know what i'm actually working with hp/torque wise before i make any decisions . It will give me a chance to clean up the engine bay and make my front bumper removable so i can get the hoist in from the front of the car .
#24
I found a couple of extra pics with a few more details.
Yellow body kit came from a twin turbo vette shown here at Shannonville ontario in the early 90's with the wide based wing.
Wilwood 6 and 4 piston kits for 85 vette are still available
Fans down in the hole, Hoosier rain tires on stock 17" x 9.5 wheels.
I'll add in a set of adjustable upper control arms.
Still contemplating dyno options right now -go the easy route wheel dyno or pull motor for engine dyno actual hp
Yellow body kit came from a twin turbo vette shown here at Shannonville ontario in the early 90's with the wide based wing.
Wilwood 6 and 4 piston kits for 85 vette are still available
Fans down in the hole, Hoosier rain tires on stock 17" x 9.5 wheels.
I'll add in a set of adjustable upper control arms.
Still contemplating dyno options right now -go the easy route wheel dyno or pull motor for engine dyno actual hp
Is that the off the shelf wilwood kit? 14x1.1 rotors?
If so, how well do they hold up on track?
#25
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Thread Starter
I run the 12.88" kit because of my 17 "wheels
14.1" require 18" wheels or more.
I tried the wilwood pads first that came with the kit(street performance )for 3 x 20 minute sessions and 2 x20 minute rain race races then they were gone.
Picked up a set of med. aggressive Vortex pads (last minute )for wilwood circle track style calipers and had them machined down a bit to fit these slimmer units.
They worked good, minimal wear ,some dust . I 'll try Hawk dtc70 or Porterfield as recommended in the forums and see what works best and keep a spare set of pads .
I like the fact that the pistons do not have rubber seals around each piston to burn off as with the Stoptech i had in my last car ( i didn't have the titanium heat shields though).
http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Bra...tte&option=C-4
14.1" require 18" wheels or more.
I tried the wilwood pads first that came with the kit(street performance )for 3 x 20 minute sessions and 2 x20 minute rain race races then they were gone.
Picked up a set of med. aggressive Vortex pads (last minute )for wilwood circle track style calipers and had them machined down a bit to fit these slimmer units.
They worked good, minimal wear ,some dust . I 'll try Hawk dtc70 or Porterfield as recommended in the forums and see what works best and keep a spare set of pads .
I like the fact that the pistons do not have rubber seals around each piston to burn off as with the Stoptech i had in my last car ( i didn't have the titanium heat shields though).
http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Bra...tte&option=C-4
#26
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Thread Starter
Chopped up my engine stand i never used to make a transportation cart - make it easier to roll it into the trailer for the dyno testing next week.
Since they don't have a electric water pump to connect up i had to leave my belt system in place to turn the mechanical water pump , looped the oil cooler lines and power steering pump so the same serpentine belt could be used .
Since they don't have a electric water pump to connect up i had to leave my belt system in place to turn the mechanical water pump , looped the oil cooler lines and power steering pump so the same serpentine belt could be used .
#27
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Thread Starter
JSR engine dyno time proved to be quite helpful. Fuel was analyzed and entered into program, engine warmed and by about the 9th pull we had about the best results attainable for was in or bolted to the engine and the rpm range i wanted to stay within.
Timing degree setting was moved up and down a few, dropped the jets by a couple numbers to make it less rich across the board for a 408 hp 412 trq
OK for an 88 chevy iron block with a street cam i guess , rear wheel hp calculators seem to show a varied percentage 14 % to 18% of total loss at rears -so i figure it may be around 350 hp which was close to specs that came with the car-must have been on a dyno at some point.
We even switched to dual plane intake for a few runs -as per " roadkill" but it wasn't the air gap model but we did notch the center. Results were not positive as shown in run 15 overlay .
If I changed the cam then its match the heads , and get an official air gap and so on .. for what adds up real quick on still an older stock block.
I'll use the engine this summer and see what i come up with later .
As always the engine builder wants to build you one and the store wants to sell you a crate motor....
Timing degree setting was moved up and down a few, dropped the jets by a couple numbers to make it less rich across the board for a 408 hp 412 trq
OK for an 88 chevy iron block with a street cam i guess , rear wheel hp calculators seem to show a varied percentage 14 % to 18% of total loss at rears -so i figure it may be around 350 hp which was close to specs that came with the car-must have been on a dyno at some point.
We even switched to dual plane intake for a few runs -as per " roadkill" but it wasn't the air gap model but we did notch the center. Results were not positive as shown in run 15 overlay .
If I changed the cam then its match the heads , and get an official air gap and so on .. for what adds up real quick on still an older stock block.
I'll use the engine this summer and see what i come up with later .
As always the engine builder wants to build you one and the store wants to sell you a crate motor....
#28
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
Nice job on the body work!
That engine has got a super flat torque curve too. Should be great for pulling out of the corners. What intake is on the car now? Most single plane intakes do not give up all that much torque, but have better flow at higher RPM. I would stick with what you have now.
That engine has got a super flat torque curve too. Should be great for pulling out of the corners. What intake is on the car now? Most single plane intakes do not give up all that much torque, but have better flow at higher RPM. I would stick with what you have now.
#30
Very nice workmanship. Impressive looking car and I hope your efforts help your lap times. Must be quite a thrill.
#31
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Thread Starter
Thanks...
Its the victor junior single plane back on it now - i'll just stay with that , i agree. The plan is to probably have an engine built up next winter with an LS block with the parts needed to perform in road racing . There's crate engines out there like the CT525 but some parts may have to be changed- I'll just use what i have for now and see how i make out this summer.
Clutch is a Quarter Master tripple disc 7.25 with a starter ring - to a tremic tko with the .82 5th gear- Dana 44 changed from 3.07 to a 3.75
Its the victor junior single plane back on it now - i'll just stay with that , i agree. The plan is to probably have an engine built up next winter with an LS block with the parts needed to perform in road racing . There's crate engines out there like the CT525 but some parts may have to be changed- I'll just use what i have for now and see how i make out this summer.
Clutch is a Quarter Master tripple disc 7.25 with a starter ring - to a tremic tko with the .82 5th gear- Dana 44 changed from 3.07 to a 3.75
#32
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Thread Starter
Cleaned up the engine a bit before it gets re installed . Found a set of aluminum valve covers, used clear high temp caliper coating to help keep parts easier to clean and tried the high temp 1200 F bbq paint on the headers. I 'll see how that lasts.
Also pieced together upper adjustable arms with a low friction 360 degree ball joint- help with the camber and castor adjustments .
Also pieced together upper adjustable arms with a low friction 360 degree ball joint- help with the camber and castor adjustments .
#34
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re: My old original C4 race car
This is my old C4 body!
It was original SnakeSkiner body from Morrison with my mods for turbo and intercooler. Originally, it had a 'very small' Buick 3.4L in it.
In the day, it was a GT1, Canada Challenge Cup car. I would run 1:20's at Mosport of old, but it was too heavy to get even close to the teens for winning that class.... So, I went to a tube chassis and a C5R (real original GM LeMans) body... That was next fastest to 911 LeMans GT1 car and capable of high teens and over 185mph.
Anton
It was original SnakeSkiner body from Morrison with my mods for turbo and intercooler. Originally, it had a 'very small' Buick 3.4L in it.
In the day, it was a GT1, Canada Challenge Cup car. I would run 1:20's at Mosport of old, but it was too heavy to get even close to the teens for winning that class.... So, I went to a tube chassis and a C5R (real original GM LeMans) body... That was next fastest to 911 LeMans GT1 car and capable of high teens and over 185mph.
Anton
#35
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A-arm mounts
P.S. I was looking at the pic of the upper a-arm. Good idea! In the old days, that style of arm was hard to find! It should not be held bu nuts (friction) alone. It will move! Those slots require slugs! If standard slugs do not work, you can buy un-drilled blanks and drill yourself.
FYI.
Anton
FYI.
Anton
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