Spdfrk81

Can someone explain the advantage/disadvantage to coilovers vs stock with DRM shocks? I've been running DRM's for years and love them but i'm always looking for that little bit more

charger21

Just bolting on some coilovers does not mean the car will handle better. Tons of awesome cars on coilovers as well as leafs

c5racr1

Been wondering this also

flash911

The subject has been touched on many times here in various threads.

From what I've been able to glean, one school of thought is the transverse leaf creates roll resistance so matching that with good shocks takes advantage of the design as the factory intended. The other camp takes a well working approach to coil overs and sway bars to get the same effect.

One downside to coil overs has been several different mounting issues so be cognizant of that. I'm referring to things like shock top mount metal shear, rubber pin top mounts that skew the dampening performance, etc.

JMHO, if you're a dual duty AutoX and road course guy, then a double adjustable is the ticket (but not required).

I'm sure Sam Strano and other Pros will jump in here with a better explanation.

EDIT: nothing replaces tuning either approach for optimum performance.

nolimits

If you're on OEM sways look into upgrades there first, tires/camber too. Otherwise one of the main advantages of a good set of multi adjustable coilovers is flexibility in car set-up for different tracks/situations. Rougher, less even track, softer settings can help keep tire contact with the track. Better for street too.

Smooth fast track, firm em up and less body movement/weight transfer, car will feel more taught, turn-in and transient response will be better. Spring rates will also make a big difference so you need the right ones on coilovers to match your goals and that set-up well with anything else you run on the car. Obviously budget is an issue, we all want more but its pay to play ! Enjoy

froggy47

Apocolipse

Coil overs have greater spring selection...that's all I have to say about thaaaaaaat

strano@stranoparts.com

Those are two options that leave a lot of room in the middle.

Coil-overs give you a lot more flexibility in the spring department if you are inclined to play with that. But man, I gotta say stock Corvette springs, particularly in the more performance models don't suck. And there are good aftermarket options too. Additionally are we talking about coil-overs that has adjustable damping or not?

Then you go the other way, to shocks only that don't even have damping adjustment. And I gotta say I think that is a BIG mistake. There is a lot to be gained by tweaking shock damping. Change in ride, response, turn in, power down behavior, etc.

I changed my shock damping already twice this year based on other changes I've made to my car. Not changes that are huge either. One was tires, the other some things that got rid of some bind in the suspension. If I had non-adjustable dampers I'd just have been stuck with no way to improve the car from there on that front.

The "leaf" springs get a bad rap. They are super light, have no unsprung weight, and work. But they don't look cool. No matter how well something works folks often want to change things just because "stock parts". There are reasons, again like if you want to make a lot of spring choices... but I find it hard to fathom wanting to do that and not wanting adjustable damping in the shocks. That's the more critical thing to my tastes.

I have a lot of coil-over options. KW, MCS, Ridetech, Pfadt/AFE, etc. Also other shock options like Koni, Ridetech, Bilstein, KYB (lol), Pfadt/AFE and others. I can even do some JRi too. I run Koni's on my car. I've used Ridetech, I've driven JRi. I've used Bilstein (in fact I tend to do something a little different but simple there if someone is hell-bent on non-adjustables) and maintains the full Bilstein warranty but with a front to rear damping arrangement that is better than straight off the shelf. Again, IF that's how you want to go that way and give up the option of tuning the car via damping which I do not recommend for an owner who is a driver, and hanging out in this section.

1badtantrum

Just moved to LG G2 CO from DRM from stock on same C6Z06. There is plenty of theoretical and factual information available I'll leave that to someone else. As for seat of the pants 2009 C6Z06 advantages I'd say this. I noticed a ride compliance improvement and better handling on the street and especially track/HPDE driving with DRM.
I just completed my first VIR weekend with the LG G2 CO. The LGG2 were built for the car with dedicated track car, downforce etc in mind so that likely changes things...
The LGG2 are very compliant at low, mid and high speed. They handle curbs at speed with little complaints from the suspension. The ride height is lower, it is adjustable. The springs are stiff and body roll is an absolute minimum.
The coil overs are a 'little bit more" actually quite a bit more.

c5racr1

So would say go with the coilovers on a track car? I'm still on the fence with this, going T1 or lg g2. I don't care about the street ride at all, cause I don't drive it on the street.

Apocolipse

Do the spring rates available in a leaf satisfy your wheel rate requirements? If not, go coil. Otherwise, leaf.

1badtantrum

Short answer: Yes go with CO.
Why...Just so you don't have to wonder what if.
I don't think I could tell in a blind test if someone had similarly prepared cars (one w/DRM, one w/CO). I think after the past weekend the car fealt more compliant and planted. I don't know all the theory and math behind wheel rates and spring rates etc. I'm reading, I'm learning. I know I don't have to wonder anymore how my car would handle if it had coilovers.

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

All of our G2's are built to order as you might already know.

For sure they are built as a sports car setup, but if someone did want a comfy GT highway cruiser you can do that with them as well.

I do like to pride ourselves in having a very competitive package right out of the box with little needing to be done after install and setup. Sure there are adjustable packages out there and for a pro level driver with some help at the track it can help the car, but for those of us that do this for fun on the weekends, I would rather spend time driving than jacking up the car and turning ***** and dials.

1badtantrum

Anthony, I am aware of and appreciate the custom built to order nature of your shock package.
I am that weekend guy. I do a lot of jacking and turning ***** but I don't think I personally could get anything more out of the car at my driving skill level wrt shocks. The G2's were great, the car worked fantastic after a thorough overhaul. which required a day of getting the feel, I was able to turn 2:03-2:06 at VIR full. My goal is to tune the suspension and driver and get to 2:00 this year :-)

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

You are doing very well turning those times in a street car Corvette. Not knowing the entire package hard to say what it can do pushed to the max.

Dirk Miller

Hey Anthony this is great timing,
I've communicated with you @ your facility regarding your G2's and should be pulling the trigger for someone's coil-overs within maybe 4 weeks. I’m leaning towards yours due to the fact that you guys build for our style of driving. But what happens if our style changes? Here is what I mean. At present my ’08 manual C6 is set up for HPDE events as follows :
- Pfadt sway bars- Light version
- Sparco Pro 2000 race seat w/ 6 pt Schroth harness and Brey Kraus bar
- cooling issues are pretty well addressed for California weather by installing Dewitts radiator, Z06 oil cooler & setrap cooler for power steering fluid
- Quantum Competition Cooling duct kit with AP CP9660 Radi-CAL six piston calipers on front
- installed SKF hubs on all four and will install your poly bushing kit next
- 10 qt. oil volume w/ 3 qt. Accusump
- elite oil catch can
- ZO6 exhaust manifold, cats, H pipe & Cal C.A.I. Honker
-- - have been running square R100 Hoosier scrubs for 4 years on 18” wheels but this is changing. And here is the kicker. I just paid for four new Avon slicks and will run these for a while, but I don’t assume I’ll be able to purchase these new more than once. So if this is only temporary and I go back to Hoosier scrubs, how could you guys work this into your design for a set of G2’s?
thanks

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

At the Pro level tires do play a very important roll in effective wheel rate as the tires do have a spring rating. Not all tire manufactures will give this data to you but it is there most of the time.

Tire performance, even the same tire, is going to vary over it's life time and grip levels change. Since you say you are going to run a Hoosier most of the time, I would base the kit around that. The few times you run a dedicated slick on the car, you might see a little more roll but the tire is going to be the main point of "stick" if you will.

I'll shoot you a bit more detail over.