Cutting lap times (C5Z)
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Cutting lap times (C5Z)
Hi, I've been racing and doing time trials for years. I recently picked up an 02 C5Z for street/time trial work and its the best dollar for donut car i've owned. So far i've only done SS lines, Castrol SRF fluid, Hawk DTC pads and the brakes are awesome! I'm also running Hoosier R6's. other than that the car is stock. I know all the traditional routes for making the car faster on track like 1:Brakes 2:T1 sway bars 3:Alignment/shocks. So far with this car i've done 1 NASA TT and the car was shockingly fast stock, running 2 seconds off a T1 record time at NJMP lightning (not sure if 1:11 is current).
What is the best bang for the buck modification without sacrificing street drivability. (one lap of america is in the near future). I've read everywhere T1 sway bars but I can't imagine turn in gets much better. If an experienced T1 guy or racer could explain how the T1 bars change the cars dynamics/balance i'll spend the $1,000. Maybe the re-valved shocks from DRM? Also if you could let me know what a middle of the road track alignment works with for the C5Z that would be great.
Thanks!
Kyle
What is the best bang for the buck modification without sacrificing street drivability. (one lap of america is in the near future). I've read everywhere T1 sway bars but I can't imagine turn in gets much better. If an experienced T1 guy or racer could explain how the T1 bars change the cars dynamics/balance i'll spend the $1,000. Maybe the re-valved shocks from DRM? Also if you could let me know what a middle of the road track alignment works with for the C5Z that would be great.
Thanks!
Kyle
#2
alignment recommendations:
http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/wp-c...-9.12.2011.pdf
T1 bars:
These were designed with cars running hoosiers in mind. They will help eliminate body roll and I believe the rear bar is adjustable. Many use these successfully, however some folks like lighter bars and going with heavier spring rates. If youre staying on stock springs, the extra spring rate offered by the t1 bars should help eliminate any body roll.
Also LG motorsports makes a bar setup similar to the T1 and they are currently having a sale on them for 650 bucks iirc
Shocks:
I suggest you spend some time to figure out what your shocks are doing and what you want them to do before going down the expensive shock route. That said, if your shocks are old or worn, oem or bilstein replacements arent a bad idea.
http://www.pfadtracing.com/blog/wp-c...-9.12.2011.pdf
T1 bars:
These were designed with cars running hoosiers in mind. They will help eliminate body roll and I believe the rear bar is adjustable. Many use these successfully, however some folks like lighter bars and going with heavier spring rates. If youre staying on stock springs, the extra spring rate offered by the t1 bars should help eliminate any body roll.
Also LG motorsports makes a bar setup similar to the T1 and they are currently having a sale on them for 650 bucks iirc
Shocks:
I suggest you spend some time to figure out what your shocks are doing and what you want them to do before going down the expensive shock route. That said, if your shocks are old or worn, oem or bilstein replacements arent a bad idea.
Last edited by el es tu; 05-25-2016 at 11:55 AM.
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AND0 (05-25-2016)
#3
Racer
The first two mods I did to my Z06 were brake cooling ducts (Doug Rippie (duct) and Quantum (spindle)) and a Ron Davis radiator with integrated oil cooler. These may be considered more like reliability mods, you can't go faster if your car isn't on the track.
A better seat and harness will help your lap times too.
I have the DRM Bilsteins and Pfadt (AFE?) Johnny O'Connel sway bars and like them on track and on the street.
A better seat and harness will help your lap times too.
I have the DRM Bilsteins and Pfadt (AFE?) Johnny O'Connel sway bars and like them on track and on the street.
#5
I love my C5 Z06. It has so many positive attributes. As far as the turn in getting better, I put the Johnny O' sways on and almost turned into the grass at turn 4 VIR. The turn in was so much more immediate than with the stock sways. They are lighter than the T1s and feel much softer to my mentor who does run T1s. I like a compliant suspension when running over the gators etc. I run C6 Z06 shocks (cheap) with these and like the forgiving nature of the combination.
I second the larger radiator and integrated oil cooler. The install is fairly easy with the exception being routing the oil lines and tightening the supply/ return fitting at the oil filter. You must have a lift in my opinion. If you are fitting the quantum brake duct on the spindle you may want to go ahead and do SKF bearings while the spindle is off. That is not a terrible difficult driveway job. Good time to do the shocks as well. Gee it's easy to spend other peoples $$$.
I second the larger radiator and integrated oil cooler. The install is fairly easy with the exception being routing the oil lines and tightening the supply/ return fitting at the oil filter. You must have a lift in my opinion. If you are fitting the quantum brake duct on the spindle you may want to go ahead and do SKF bearings while the spindle is off. That is not a terrible difficult driveway job. Good time to do the shocks as well. Gee it's easy to spend other peoples $$$.
#6
Advanced
Thread Starter
Thanks guys, this was exactly what I was looking for. I'm going to look into the Johnny O bars and re valved bilsteins. As for brakes, DTC pads/lines/fluid feel awesome. Doing time trials in only doing 3-4 hard laps at a time. If I don't need to spend money on cooling I don't want to but I keep hearing I need a oil/trans cooler. Sucks because I can get a new set of race tires for the cost of a trans cooler.
As for gears, this is the first time I've heard about gears for this car. How much would that cost? I'd imagine it's a huge job.
I'm running NASA TT2 so I still have enough power to weight room to run a full slick. I'm at 8.65:1 and I can be an 8. Running a slick adds .5. I'm excited to see how the car feels with a Pirelli slick 305/18 square setup with the sway bars.
As for gears, this is the first time I've heard about gears for this car. How much would that cost? I'd imagine it's a huge job.
I'm running NASA TT2 so I still have enough power to weight room to run a full slick. I'm at 8.65:1 and I can be an 8. Running a slick adds .5. I'm excited to see how the car feels with a Pirelli slick 305/18 square setup with the sway bars.
#7
Melting Slicks
Stay away from gears, not needed.The car has enough power and torque that the 3.42 is a perfect gear for most every track on the planet.
Put a seat and harness in the car.
DRM stainless brake pistons.
I am also running 2-3 seconds off the TT2 record at NOLA. I have zero suspension mods and and running a 305-660-18 Pirelli setup. I start at 24PSI and end at 30PSI.
With more camber mine will go faster, I'm not going to change a thing as my car will handle more entry speed my brain just won't allow it yet. I need more seat time.
I need around -2.8F and -1.8 rear.
I'd be careful lowering the car on bolts, I raised mine back up and it turned better.
Put a seat and harness in the car.
DRM stainless brake pistons.
I am also running 2-3 seconds off the TT2 record at NOLA. I have zero suspension mods and and running a 305-660-18 Pirelli setup. I start at 24PSI and end at 30PSI.
With more camber mine will go faster, I'm not going to change a thing as my car will handle more entry speed my brain just won't allow it yet. I need more seat time.
I need around -2.8F and -1.8 rear.
I'd be careful lowering the car on bolts, I raised mine back up and it turned better.
#8
Pro
Camber kit, hands down. Will get you more negative camber and hold the alignment. With slicks I bet you're not holding an alignment through a weekend on the stock hardware, and certainly not if you have a spin. I would say poly bushings as well, but they make the car so that it is no longer streetable - way too stiff and squeaky.
#10
Advanced
Thread Starter
Stay away from gears, not needed.The car has enough power and torque that the 3.42 is a perfect gear for most every track on the planet.
Put a seat and harness in the car.
DRM stainless brake pistons.
I am also running 2-3 seconds off the TT2 record at NOLA. I have zero suspension mods and and running a 305-660-18 Pirelli setup. I start at 24PSI and end at 30PSI.
With more camber mine will go faster, I'm not going to change a thing as my car will handle more entry speed my brain just won't allow it yet. I need more seat time.
I need around -2.8F and -1.8 rear.
I'd be careful lowering the car on bolts, I raised mine back up and it turned better.
Put a seat and harness in the car.
DRM stainless brake pistons.
I am also running 2-3 seconds off the TT2 record at NOLA. I have zero suspension mods and and running a 305-660-18 Pirelli setup. I start at 24PSI and end at 30PSI.
With more camber mine will go faster, I'm not going to change a thing as my car will handle more entry speed my brain just won't allow it yet. I need more seat time.
I need around -2.8F and -1.8 rear.
I'd be careful lowering the car on bolts, I raised mine back up and it turned better.
Just what I wanted to hear! do you rub with your slicks? Did you need a camber kit to get those numbers? I totally agree, the car is low enough. The Chevy engineers did a good job with ride height.
#11
Advanced
Thread Starter
Camber kit, hands down. Will get you more negative camber and hold the alignment. With slicks I bet you're not holding an alignment through a weekend on the stock hardware, and certainly not if you have a spin. I would say poly bushings as well, but they make the car so that it is no longer streetable - way too stiff and squeaky.
100% I just need to find a high containment seat with large bolsters that can be used with the stock seatbelt. I'm trying to keep the car a street car. So far i've been through: Evo8 street/track, RX7(with ls3) street/track, Viper GTS street/track, cayman S street/track and the c5 Z06 beats them all hands down as a street track vehicle. NOTHING compares. I've gone too far with the other cars where I couldn't go back to street form within an hour after an event. The c5z's suspension is insane for a stock car. I think I need more camber and maybe new shocks since mine are so old.
#14
Pro
I don't think there is such a thing, at least not one that would still allow the seat belt to function properly. Your best bet may be to swap in the race seat for track weekends and then swap back after. They only have 4 bolts holding them down, pretty easy to get in and out.
#15
what you do is keep both a harness attached as well as the stock belts - plenty of people use racing seats with stock seatbelts on the street (because theyre mandated by road safety laws)
#16
Pro
Keep in mind that seat belts are intended to fit you in a very specific way. If you alter the way it fits with a seat that has side walls you risk your safety. If I had a race seat on the street, I would probably put on the harnesses instead of an ill fitting 3 point, even if it risked getting a ticket. But even better is just putting back in the stock seat when driving on the street.
Last edited by SunnydayDILYSI; 05-27-2016 at 09:53 PM.
#18
#19
Melting Slicks
I was hit by a train doing 60 MPH and was thrown from the car in 1991. When it's my time it's my time. Thanks for your concern and your math.
Racing drivers for 50 years took 100 plus mph hits with no hans and crap helmets, the high majority survived.
#20
Pro
Bottom line for optimal safety and performance... Run on the street with stock equipment (seats, belts, air bags). And run on the track with racing gear (fire retardant suit, shoes, underwear, SA helmet, HANS, harnesses).