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steel tubes in waterpump housing

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Old 06-05-2016, 02:19 AM
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fatbillybob
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Default steel tubes in waterpump housing

How are the steel tubes put in the aluminium water pump housing? Motor is ls6 C5Z06
Swagged in? Screwed in? I want to close off these heat ports. Racecar needs no heater.
Old 06-05-2016, 03:27 PM
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c5racr1
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Don't know, but I tried to do this and it didn't work for my c6 cause one of those hoses go to the coolant overflow tank. I just put a loop it the heater hose
Old 06-05-2016, 03:31 PM
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Kevova
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Stock water pump tubes a swedged or pressed in. I have no clue how hard they are to remove.
Old 06-05-2016, 03:45 PM
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parsonsj
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They are press-fit with adhesive.

They come out very easily: get some large clamping pliers on them and they will twist out. Best part: the holes that remain in the pump housing are perfectly sized for pipe threads. Get some nice 3/8 and 1/2 NPT taps, tap 'em and plug 'em.

No sweat. 2 hour job, max. Be careful not to over-tap.

Last edited by parsonsj; 06-05-2016 at 03:46 PM.
Old 06-05-2016, 04:51 PM
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fatbillybob
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Thanks! That is what I needed to know
Old 06-05-2016, 05:03 PM
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trackboss
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Easiest removal I have ever seen done was by putting a couple quick mig welds inside each tube. As they cooled the tubes shrunk and pulled right out.
Old 06-05-2016, 10:29 PM
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fatbillybob
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Great idea. I can do that
Old 07-04-2016, 05:57 PM
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fatbillybob
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This post to confirm Parsons is correct and thank you to him too.

Fittings are indeed 3/8 and 1/2 npt or MIP. Holes in WP are indeed ready to tap with 3/8 and 1/2 taps which home depot and lowe's do not carry. But you can get the taps as a set of 6 at "Harbor Freight and tool" for about 15 bucks link below! I had trouble getting pipes out with heat. The easy way is to heat the pipes and just crush them with big pliers and rip them out. That did not work on one pipe which I had to cut nearly flush to the WP housing then use a dremel tool to slice 1 side of the pipe as it sat in the WP. Then I bent the remaining pipe out with a screw driver and tore the little bugger out easy like how a dentist rips out a tooth.

http://www.harborfreight.com/pipe-ta...-pc-69877.html
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Old 07-04-2016, 09:22 PM
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KENS80V
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You could also just buy this Dayco hose #87629 and loop it.
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Old 07-06-2016, 08:32 PM
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brkntrxn
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Originally Posted by KENS80V
You could also just buy this Dayco hose #87629 and loop it.
I agree. Why go through all of that trouble when you can just route the hoses back to themselves via the overflow? That is how I, and others, did it on our racecars.
Old 07-06-2016, 09:47 PM
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FASTFATBOY
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Originally Posted by brkntrxn
I agree. Why go through all of that trouble when you can just route the hoses back to themselves via the overflow? That is how I, and others, did it on our racecars.
No hose to pop and the nipples won't come out(yes I have seen this happen and it's ugly on track when it does).
Old 07-07-2016, 12:08 PM
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johnny c
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on my car i tapped it and capped it. In hind sight i should have just did the loop. lots of work is needed if i need a water pump at the track.
Old 07-07-2016, 04:41 PM
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c5racr1
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http://cdn.nexternal.com/katech/imag...strictor_1.JPG

Won't this do the same thing?
Old 07-07-2016, 04:51 PM
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KENS80V
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Originally Posted by c5racr1
That just replaces the thermostat. It has nothing to do with the heater outlet bungs on the water pump.

Last edited by KENS80V; 07-07-2016 at 04:53 PM.
Old 07-07-2016, 05:17 PM
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c5racr1
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If you close those hoses off how will you fill the system? The front hose goes to the bottom hose on the expansion tank, if you block it off...
Old 07-07-2016, 05:18 PM
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Old 07-07-2016, 06:39 PM
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KENS80V
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I'll assume their track cars have non factory type of radiators. The filling method must be different.

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