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Starting off the new year with a new set of R888's and wondering what other track rats are using for alignment settings on their C6Z's. With the exception of LG G1 sway bars my suspension is stock. What are your camber, caster, and toe settings?
uh.... NO way would I recommend toe-out in the rear, no way. Not unless you have something going on to make the car really pushy to start with. I have, on occasion run zero toe (but it's only worked on one particular car). I run 1/4 total toe in on the back of my Z06. I also think the chart above is simplistic. For instance I run similar number for DOT Tire w/poly, Dedicated track car.... on my autocross car which is street legal (and I drive it on the street), and it competes on both Hoosier's and BFG Rival S's through the year. And I don't have poly bushings either.
Overall those aren't bad specs for a autox/track driver who does so with any regularity, except that rear toe, that's jacked up. I wonder if someone goofed as I find a lot of times people think - in front of toe is toe in. It's not.
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Last edited by strano@stranoparts.com; Feb 2, 2017 at 04:40 AM.
I have a street driven C5Z using newer "street "tires and use significantly more neg camber front and rear than suggested. Most of my tire wear occurs at the track anyway.
uh.... NO way would I recommend toe-out in the rear, no way.
Read the top of the sheet. Negative is toe-in in these specs. (It's been discussed ad nauseum... we know that's not the normal convention but it's how Pfadt did it.)
Last edited by Scooter70; Feb 2, 2017 at 09:15 AM.
If I have a C5Z on stock suspension using Toyo R888R's, which setting would you guys recommend? I was thinking performance street or dedicated track with poly bushings (even though still using OEM bushings).
But, there is no way you could get that kind of camber without some hardware changes. What would you need to get up to -3* of camber in the front?
Originally Posted by Soloontario
I have a street driven C5Z using newer "street "tires and use significantly more neg camber front and rear than suggested. Most of my tire wear occurs at the track anyway.
I use a little more aggressive camber settings than chart #2, -1.5 front and about -1 in rear, with 0 toe front and slight toe in for the rear. I tried a little toe out in front and found steering inputs to be very sensitive on hard acceleration to the point where it becomes uncomfortable on public roads.
To get to -3 camber up front, I think you will need camber plates. I use them for my settings having already had the experience of slipped OEM suspension components on high speed corners.
I use about neg 2.3 up front and neg 1.5 in the rear for Michelin Sport Cup 2s. Both camber settings are just about maxed out.Looking at the wear pattern, it seems about right but I have not used a pyrometer. Tiny bit of Toe in up front and 1/8 inch toe in at the rear. Might consider a bit of toe out up front but I don't autocross.
The Sport Cup 2s don't see much street use but the Super Sports that do get used on the street are not showing any strange wear.
As for braking performance, well it never is good enough anyway.
I had -1.9 degrees up front with NT-05's. They wore very even. When i switch to NT-01's or hoosiers, this is not enough camber. I corded the outside edge of the hoosiers. I then put on the NT-01's and I'm wearing the tire to far over, all the way to the triangle markers. After two track events, you can see the difference in wear across the tires. I'm going for an alignment a week from friday, i'm shooting for -2.5 to -2.7 degrees up front and 1.5 in the rear.
My stock eccentrics were maxed at -1.9. Many here can get more, have heard up to -2.3, but it was achievable in my car. You'll need a camber kit once you get above your cars max. No way to tell what your cars max is until you take it in.
My bone stock FRC can get -2.8 degrees in the front without any mods.
I think my max is - 2.4 but I have not removed any of the upper control arm shims.....yet. I am concerned that my car may be a bit too low up front and may need to raise both ends of the car a bit which will likely decrease my neg camber a bit.
Read the top of the sheet. Negative is toe-in in these specs. (It's been discussed ad nauseum... we know that's not the normal convention but it's how Pfadt did it.)
Well, okay. I had not seen that discussion. Though I'd really wonder who was writing that, or proofing it, considering that's about as basic as it gets on alignment.
The cars don't vary that much. If they did, nothing else would fit. The control arms and frames don't vary that much. However racks can and do. Late last year I picked up a nice machine and went through with the Hunter tech. One camber transducer was reading half the change it should have. It happens.
And the camber will vary some with the amount of caster you run. More caster, less camber you can generate. I typically see -2.3 to -2.5 as max from C5's on the two machines I use with "average" caster. So something else to consider.
Stock cams I got 2.5 with 7 caster using shims on the front 2 upper bolts... basically maxed caster at that camber. With the AMT kit I get 2.7 with 8 caster. I could get more camber but caster would decrease. Front is all the way down on stock z51 spring pads.
Rear I'm maxed on 1 side at 1.3 and other side's not maxed for symmetry... maybe could go 1.7-ish as guess. I'm fairly close to stock ride height in rear.
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