ShiftLess

In for a penny, in for a pound...

I'm recently bought a '08 Base Coupe with AT. I drive with hand controls due to SCI/disability so no MT for me (I did have a vacuum servo pulling the clutch for me in a previous BMW but it sucked, pun intended.)

Looking for advice on:
Wheel and tire setup? ie Speedline 18x10.5 square setup? will they fit if I go to bigger brakes in the future? what size tires and which ones for noob? OR...just run stock wheels with good rubber to start with? I'm not going to run sticks until I learn to drive and learn this car. I've heard there are good tire choices for 1/2 the cost of Michelins.

Defense mods? unfortunately the AT cars don't have dry sump and I assume heat will be an issue. Oil cooler, transmission cooler ...sources?

I'm doing EVO II seats/harnesses/harness bar to hold me in place as balance is an issue.

So far only suspension change is for Koni shocks. Wondering if Z51 or? springs and larger sway bars are warranted yet...

Recommendations for track pads?

I have some track experience with the previous BMW mentioned years ago as well as some MC racing prior 'in another life' and some TAG karting experience with my own hand controls. This car is my first muscle car and admittedly intimidated by its speed potential but want to drive on track to enjoy that as well.

Just signed up for a two day event in mid April so also wondering if I'll be needing anything else? Obviously I'd like to have a plan for mods and update the car as skills progress.

Thanks in advance!

Mordeth

Nice ride.

Others may have different opinions, but here are mine:

1) Wheel/tire setup: Stay stock for now with stock rubber. How old are the current tires, what tread depth is left and have they ever been repaired? Remember that tires are what stop your car. Old, hard, worn tires have caused too many deaths and too many accidents. If you can't answer these questions exactly, then consider new tires. No need for slicks right now. Michelin Pilot Super Sports will suit your purpose.

2) Defense mods (don't skip this): You need fresh fluids. Oil should be changed prior to the event. Mobil 5w30 in April is fine if it is still cool outside. At some point you may want to switch to 0w40 or 15w50. Next is brake fluid. It should be bled and replaced with Motul 600. Next is transmission/differential fluid, it too should be checked and replaced (procedure below).

3) Leave the suspension alone for now. Until you understand what the car is doing or not doing, you shouldn't be modifying the suspension components. Same with cooling - leave it alone for now. Monitor cooling (oil and coolant) during the event and address as needed.

4) The brake pads should be inspected. If they are at least half-life, they will last a few days. If they are anything less than half, then replace. The fronts take the most abuse. Carbotech has a pretty good track pad setup. Look for the XP10 or XP8 to start. KNS brakes or Amp'd will sell them to you (forum sponsors here). You will then start to cook the front rotors, and will need to address those at some point also (stay stock for now). OEM are cheap and will work, even upon replacement. DBA makes a decent two piece if you want to spend the cash. You don't need a BBK yet. Just get some decent track pads like I mentioned. They will resist fade better and function longer at higher temps. If you find that you become a "track rat", then a BBK is in order.

5) You should have a basic nuts/bolts/alignment inspection done by a competent shop. Things like the condition/mounting of the battery, the glass, the mirrors, the steering, the brake lights etc should all be examined. Most HPDE organizers provide a Tech Inspection sheet and suggested inspection locations in your area. Follow it.

6) You will need a Snell SA2010 or 2015 helmet.

7) Empty car of everything except yourself. And that means EVERYTHING. Nothing jingling or rattling or bouncing around.

8) Other than the safety items listed above, the less you do to the car the better for now.

9) Consider track insurance.

10) Look ahead, be smooth, learn the line, slow-in and fast-out and have fun!





Differential: http://www.southerncarparts.com/corv...nge-pm-43.html


Service Information
2008 Chevrolet Corvette | Corvette (VIN Y) Service Manual | Transmission/Transaxle | Automatic Transmission - 6L50/6L80/6L90 | Repair Instructions - On Vehicle | Document ID: 1593625
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Transmission Fluid Check
This procedure checks both the transmission fluid level, as well as the condition of the fluid itself. Since the transmission on this vehicle is not equipped with a fill tube and dipstick, a tube in the bottom pan is used to set the fluid level.

Notice: The transmission fluid level must be checked when the transmission fluid temperature (TFT) is between 30-50°C (86-122°F). If the TFT is not within this range, operate the vehicle or allow the fluid to cool as required. Setting the fluid level with a TFT outside this range will result in either an under or over-filled transmission. TFT>50°C=under-filled, TFT<30°C=over-filled. An under-filled transmission will cause premature component wear or damage. An over-filled transmission will cause fluid to discharge out the vent tube, fluid foaming, or pump cavitation.

Observe the TFT using the driver information center (DIC) or a scan tool.
Start and idle the engine.
Depress the brake pedal and move the shift lever through each gear range. Pause for at least 3 seconds in each range. Move the shift lever back to PARK. Ensure the engine RPM is low (500-800 RPM).
Allow the engine to idle for at least 1 minute.
Raise the vehicle on a hoist. The vehicle must be level, with the engine running and the shift lever in the PARK range.



Notice: THE ENGINE MUST BE RUNNING when the trans oil level check plug is removed or excessive fluid loss will occur, resulting in an under-filled condition. An under-filled transmission will cause premature component wear or damage.

Important: Continue to monitor the TFT. If the TFT is not within the specified values, reinstall the trans oil level check plug and repeat the previous steps.

Remove the trans oil level check plug (1) from the transmission fluid pan. Allow any fluid (2) to drain.
• If the fluid is flowing as a steady stream, wait until the fluid begins to drip.

• If no fluid comes out, add fluid until fluid drips out. Refer to Transmission Fluid Fill Procedure .

Inspect the fluid color. The fluid should be red or dark brown.
• If the fluid color is very dark or black and has a burnt odor, inspect the fluid and inside of the bottom pan for excessive metal particles or other debris. A small amount of "friction" material in the bottom pan is a "normal" condition. If large pieces and/or metal particles are noted in the fluid or bottom pan, flush the oil cooler and cooler lines and overhaul the transmission. If there are no signs of transmission internal damage noted, replace the fluid filter assembly, repair the oil cooler, and flush the cooler lines.

• Fluid that is cloudy or milky or appears to be contaminated with water indicates engine coolant or water contamination. Refer to Engine Coolant/Water in Transmission .

Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in the Preface section.

Replace the trans oil level check plug and tighten to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).
Inspect for external leaks. Refer to Fluid Leak Diagnosis .
Reset the oil life monitor only if the fluid was changed.
© 2009 General Motors Corporation. All rights reserved.

Transmission Fluid Fill Procedure
Notice: Use Dexron VI transmission fluid only. Failure to use the proper fluid may result in transmission internal damage.

Perform this procedure for vehicles with transmissions that are not equipped with a fill tube and dipstick. Based on accessibility, transmission fluid may be added through the fluid fill tube plug assembly (1) hole or through the oil level check plug (2) hole in the bottom of the transmission fluid pan.

Tools Required
• DT 47784 Transmission Fluid Fill Pan Adapter

• J 45096 Transmission Oil Cooling System Flush and Flow Test Tool

• J 45096-30 Transmission Cooler Flush Adapters

• J 45096-40 Transflow Oil Fill Adapter

Fill Tube Plug Method




Notice: Before removing the transmission fluid fill tube plug assembly, thoroughly clean around the plug to prevent dirt or contaminants from entering the transmission during plug removal. Use compressed air to dislodge any caked dirt that may be stuck on and around the plug area. Use a mirror to confirm the area is free of dirt before removing the plug. Failure to clean around the plug may result in transmission contamination.

Clean around the fluid fill tube plug.



Important: It may be necessary to use a long pair of 90 degree needle nose pliers to lift the plunger and remove the plug assembly.

Unlock the fill tube plug by lifting the plunger. Once the plunger is lifted, remove the entire plug assembly.
Determine the approximate amount of fluid needed to fill the transmission, based on the repair performed. Refer to Fluid Capacity Specifications . To avoid an under-fill condition, slightly overfill the transmission, and then allow the extra fluid to drain during the fluid checking procedure.



Important: The J 45096 is being utilized as a convenient method to pump the fluid into the bottom pan. A suitable hand pump may also be used instead. When using the J 45096 , monitor the display panel to determine the amount of fluid being pumped from the tool supply tank into the transmission.

Using the J 45096-40 (1) and the J 45096 (2), or a suitable hand pump, add transmission fluid through the fill tube plug opening. Refer to Transmission Fluid Cooler Flushing and Flow Test for complete J 45096 operating instructions. Use the FLOW position on the main function switch to pump the fluid.
Check the fluid level. Refer to Transmission Fluid Check .
Check Plug Method




Important: When the oil level check plug is removed with the engine OFF, transmission fluid may drain from the hole.

Remove the oil level check plug.



Install the DT 47784 (1) and, if necessary, one adapter from the J 45096-30 (2).
Determine the approximate amount of fluid needed to fill the transmission, based on the repair performed. Refer to Fluid Capacity Specifications . To avoid an under-fill condition, slightly overfill the transmission, and then allow the extra fluid to drain during the fluid checking procedure.
Important: The J 45096 is being utilized as a convenient method to pump the fluid into the bottom pan. A suitable hand pump may also be used instead. When using the J 45096 , monitor the display panel to determine the amount of fluid being pumped from the tool supply tank into the transmission.

Using the DT 47784 (1), J 45096-30 (2), and the J 45096 (3), add transmission fluid through the check plug hole. Refer to Transmission Fluid Cooler Flushing and Flow Test for complete J 45096 operating instructions. Use the FLOW position on the main function switch to pump the fluid.
Important: Failure to start the engine and move the shift lever through the gear ranges before removing the DT 47784 and J 45096-30 from the bottom pan will result in an excess amount of fluid draining from the check plug hole. This may lead to an under-fill condition.

Start the engine and move the shift lever through each gear range. Pause for at least 3 seconds in each gear range.
With the engine still running, remove the DT 47784 (1), J 45096-30 (2), and J 45096 (3) and then check the fluid level. Refer to Transmission Fluid Check .
© 2009 General Motors Corporation. All rights reserved.

ErnieN85

one more thing before track, add the biggest Trans cooler you can.
I have a plate type from Advanced auto. about $80

TKOGTO

IMO, Mordeth's suggestions should be followed almost to the letter. On point, rational and comprehensive. Members with much experience that take the time to help those new to the addiction are what make CF such a valuable resource.

The only difference I have is with the pads recommended. Many different opinions exist on pads so take mine FWIW. I have found these to wear @ twice the rate of similar pads despite being as or more expensive. The high/highish initial bite is the polar opposite of what a track pad should be, again IMO. Consider PFC instead.

You won't need a trans cooler right away but when you do, I recommend the biggest stacked plate one that fits. After a B&M HI-Tek cooler inside the passenger fender became inadequate, I added two Setrab 50-619-7612 coolers mounted in place of the fog lights. After installation, max temps declined some 60*F. Now, a few years later with temps within 15*F of old highs, I've added the LG trans pan. Hopefully the extra gallon will get me back into a more sustainable range.

ImprovedRacing

As far as oiling goes, oil starvation is an issue, especially without the dry sump system.

We highly recommend installing a good oil pressure gauge with a low pressure alarm. The advance warning will allow you to react and back off before damaging the engine. This can save you from blowing your engine due to oil starvation. Without an alarm it's difficult to notice sudden dips in oil pressure when your eyes are focused on the track.

Keeping an eye on oil temp is also important, but you can use the factory gauge.

If you will be pulling much over 1 sustained G (pretty easy to achieve with these cars), you will probably need an oil pan baffle and crank scraper setup. We make direct bolt in baffles and scrapers that fit into the factory oil pan. As an added bonus the scraper will also add a few WHP (5-8 typical). We have found our baffled pans can handle up to around 1.3-1.4 sustained G's before seeing oil pressure drops again. At this point, you can add an Accusump setup, or just go dry sump. You typically won't reach this level without slicks and aero.

Our oil pan baffles and scrapers for the wet sump system can be found here: http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-pa...kit-p-493.html

As long as you stay below the factory redline, the factory oil pump should be good. But if you go above factory, you will want to upgrade to an oil pump that doesn't cavitate at high RPMs, which also leads to oil starvation. We recommend the Melling 10295 pump with the high pressure spring (especially if you add an oil cooler setup). Pumps: http://www.improvedracing.com/oiling...ps-c-3_55.html

Lastly, you will definitely need an oil cooler. We sell a complete bolt on kit for the C6: http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-co...kit-p-768.html

You could also go with the factory Z06 cooler for light track use if you can find a good deal on one. However it's difficult to maintain proper oil temps with the factory system on the street because it lacks a thermostat. We make an upgrade kit for this as well that works with the factory cooler: http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-co...ade-p-767.html

We specialize in oiling for LS engines, so if you have any questions or need anything, we are happy to help.

ShiftLess

Thank you to all who have responded! I'm looking forward to enjoying this car and greatly appreciate the help on CF!

AND0

DId I miss this? I didn't see this mentioned specifically, but alignment is really important.
Max out the front camber, 2.0 degrees if you're lucky and slight toe in on the front
Rear camber 1.2-1.5 with modest toe in ~1/4" or a bit more depending.
With a factory alignment you can really destroy your tires fast if you get aggressive.

Fresh fluids including new higher temp brake fluid and start learning.

blkbrd69

What track? This really is needed for any setup advice.

I didn't see a HANS device on your list along with the harness and seat?

Brakes are pretty much same as C5Z. Good pads matched to tires and track along with fresh quality fluid. Rotors are a consumable.

Depending on track and weather, you may be fine without any extra cooling to start. I ended up doing a very large trans cooler behind the passenger foglight in addition to quality radiator with trans cooling.
This is in addition to the Chuck Cow transmission tune that helped track manners and cooling immensely.

Old post that may help with photos.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-course-t.html
Don't bump it up its just for historical context.

Again depending on track, skill and temperature engine oil cooling will need to be addressed.

Good alignment will help no matter your skill track or tire.

ShiftLess

Holy CoW! Chuck's shop is only a little over an hour away. That 'old thread' is great info for me!

The plan is to do Lime Rock in April, Mid Ohio in May, Thunderbolt in June, Pocono in June (with Bertil Roos), Mt Tremblant and Watkins Glen in July, Lightning and VIR in Oct, assuming I can register, afford, keep the car together etc. also doing a car control clinic in May (which should be first).

These will all likely be on street tires of as yet to be determined brand on stock rims (unless there is a specific rim/tire/brake pad combination I should be heading towards). Currently thinking is for HP30 and HP+ F/R for brake pads and thinking RE11s if available or Pilot Super Sports. Can I / Should I oversize tires on stock rims? and if so then how much can I fit on a base C6? I'm way too noob to be worrying about track specifics!

I should get on those defense mods sooner rather than later...at least the transmission cooler!

As for the HANS I've been doing some research re: the various restraint systems. One of my concerns is getting out of the car in a hurry with race seats since I'm not using my legs. I haven't tried it yet much less with a HANS.

blkbrd69

It sounds like you have an awesome track schedule planned. I was at Limerock for the historics last year and really want to drive the track.

That A6 cooler installation was the first of many done on the forum, no idea what a shop would do or charge?

If you have some time and want to learn a bit about brakes.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...questions.html
Not sure about those pad choices, the C6 is a heavy fast car.

General car setup for track.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...e-learned.html

As to exiting a car with a HANS using only arms?? Should not be a hindrance, but I would have to say talk with a doctor and someone at Simpson?

ShiftLess

WOW THAT BRAKE THREAD IS AMAZING!!!
I'm gonna be up all night!

I'll just have to try a HANS device and see if it limits mobility.

0Chuck CoW

Thank you Matt......


Hey Tim, give me a shout tomorrow so we can go over some more of this.

Chuck CoW

mikeCsix

As a novice, you will be on the track with other novices so speeds should be fairly low. At my first track day, my instructor limited me to 85 down the front straight.

Brakes - lots of pad especially if OEM pads, I wouldn't go any stronger than XP-8's from Carbotech, it will be hard to get enough heat into them to keep them from tearing up your rotors. The Motul 600 fluid is a good recommendation and available at most motorcycle shops.

If you stay with stock tires and close to streetable alignment specs, it will be hard to get above 1.1 g's in turns, so I doubt you will have oil cavitation issues. Its the long sweeping turns that seem most problematical. I've been at -1.2g's in my GS without problems and its why I won't go to slicks. My car is a dual purpose car, not a race car.

I would make modifications based on need rather than want, you will be able to afford more track time that way. You may find your first mod is to replace the radiator with something more robust, like a DeWitts. I did and went for one with a built-in engine oil cooler (and trans). It works well, but I also need to add coolers for Engine oil, trans, and differential. The main problem is finding space to do so.

And as for stainless brake lines, I found I don't really need them yet and I'm an advanced-intermediate driver.

ShiftLess

Just purchased a new SA2015 dome protector and Schroth SHR...

I'd appreciate advice on seating etc.

I need seats/harnesses/harness bar as there is no way I can keep my balance and stay planted without a decent restraint system.

the seats I'm considering:
Cobra Imola Pro
OMP ARS
Sparco EVO

all of these seats have lower side bolstering which will make it a little easier to get me and my wheelchair in/out of the car I hope. The only seats I've been able to try are the OMP WRC-R which fit nicely and an OMP Champ (I believe) which I sat too high in, my shoulders covered the harness slots. Both have high thigh bolstering so not a good idea for me.

Brey Krauss is popular and looks stout with it's truss style design and it looks like an easy four bolt removal with mounts staying on pillars for when not needing it. It is expensive but that is not my first consideration! My concern is whether it will result in the harnesses being level or w/in 20* of my shoulder height etc.

Also seat sliders? what works with these seats? I will need to be able to put the seat all the way back to make room when putting wheelchair in to car and over my lap. I don't want any distracting wiggly stuff. I may also need a removable steering wheel to make more room. I was thinking about 'street seats' ie recliners but I don't see them as being a great solution if I can make a fixed back seat work.

Thx!

Mordeth

Always a chore weighing comfort/function vs safety. Most people will tell you to sacrifice comfort for safety (and I agree), but if life was that easy we would all be strapped into NASCAR style cages using a 7 or 9 point harness. Or maybe we would just take up fishing. As this is not feasible (and fishing is far too stressful for me these days), obviously some trade-offs are made for us regular folk who drive street cars on a race track.

I think the idea is always to make it as safe as possible within the design limitations of your vehicle and the requirements of a given situation.

Sliders are not usually advisable, as they become a potential weak point in a crash. But if they are needed, then you want double-locking sliders. Many guys use them.

Here are a few choices for mounting w/ double locking sliders:

1) Marrad: http://www.marradind.com/proddetail.asp?prod=C56MBWHM
2) BK w/ Recaro sliders: http://www.ogracing.com/brey-krause-...corvette-c6-c7 then http://www.xplosiveperformance.com/S...ET_p_4069.html

You will still need the side mounts. http://www.ogracing.com/catalogsearc...ir=asc&q=br906

3) Or you go here and get the flat mount kit that comes with side mounts: http://www.xplosiveperformance.com/C...NG_p_3992.html or here: http://www.vetteworksonline.net/cata...roducts_id=236

If you call Dan at Vetteworks or anyone at xplosive they are very helpful. They know their stuff and can help with the mounting options. The seats you are looking at should work with the above and I think you may want to try to sit in some if you have a chance before buying. Sparco Evo or Evo II are a good seat and all of the above mounting solutions work for it.

4) Another option, if you can wait 2-3 months, is to order Caravaggio Race seats from John. These mount directly on the existing OEM mount, require no additional mounting hardware and retain factory movement, including power, to the seat. https://www.caravaggiocorvettes.com/gt-race-seat

You will also need a lap belt bar if you go with Vetteworks or Xplosive, like found here: http://www.vetteworksonline.net/cata...products_id=58 or here: http://www.xplosiveperformance.com/C...m-_p_3993.html

My advice would be to call Dan at Vetteworks or anyone at Xplosive. They can help work out these details and get you what you need.

FASTFATBOY

Buy the cheapest set of matching tires in stock sizes you can find and burn them up.

I would run 0-40 Mobil1 oil as the auto trans will generate more heat.

Find the biggest stack plate "Long" style plate trans cooler you can get mounted in the car.

Pads for a newb? I would go with Carbotech XP 10 and XP8

Change ALL the fluids, put Redline in the power steering pump.

The rest has been covered.