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Brake Fluid after flush with Wilwood 570 from ATE DOT 4
I ran my 2004 Z06 with Track Guys school at Heartland Park this past Saturday. Fantastic, well-run event and beautiful new surface.
I've owned this very well-cared for C5Z, extremely low mileage car for 2 years and autocrossed it heavily the past 2 seasons but never flushed the brake fluid. I've only run it at a handful of track days and generally taken it pretty easy on the brakes at those events.
Expecting heavy brake usage at Heartland Park I flushed the brake fluid. The previous owner told me the car had ATE DOT 4 hi-temp brake fluid. It was certainly blue. I flushed the system in the proper order with Wilwood 570. It took about 5 of the 12 oz cans.
During my inspection of the car yesterday after the track day I was surprised at what I found in the master cylinder (see attached pic). Can you experienced guys tell me what I am seeing here?
Was there buildup in the reservoir? Is there still buildup in the reservoir? Leaving the original fluid in there for the first 10+ years of its life will leave a brown/black layer of gunk sticking to the inner walls of the reservoir.
Was there buildup in the reservoir? Is there still buildup in the reservoir? Leaving the original fluid in there for the first 10+ years of its life will leave a brown/black layer of gunk sticking to the inner walls of the reservoir.
Sorry I'm confused by what you mean by reservoir? The master cylinder is clean and I haven't opened the ABS.
Our current working theory is there was water in the fluid that was hiding in the ABS unit (which can't be flushed without a computer controlled high dollar device). The ABS unit saw plenty of action on Saturday.
Sorry I'm confused by what you mean by reservoir? The master cylinder is clean and I haven't opened the ABS.
Our current working theory is there was water in the fluid that was hiding in the ABS unit (which can't be flushed without a computer controlled high dollar device). The ABS unit saw plenty of action on Saturday.
I don't know about water in the BPMV but the fluid in your picture sure looks blue. That is evidence there was some of the old blue fluid in the system. However, it is hard to imagine the few drops that would have been caught behind some closed valves while you were flusing the fluid would turn the new fluid from amber to blue.
Fwiw a repro tech 2 works perfectly fine to activate the abs bleed, for a few hundred $.
Thanks, I didnt' realize there were affordable Tech 2 units available. From what I've read there are plenty of bootleg and early poor quality units on the market, too. Damn, another research project I wasn't planning for!
I don't know about water in the BPMV but the fluid in your picture sure looks blue. That is evidence there was some of the old blue fluid in the system. However, it is hard to imagine the few drops that would have been caught behind some closed valves while you were flusing the fluid would turn the new fluid from amber to blue.
Bill
Bill, FWIW in my experience it requires a prodigious amount of fluid flushed to eliminate the blue hue. I'm at 3 flushes and approx 4 litres of SRF on top of ATE Blue with a diaphram pressure bleeder and am only now seeing a clear, non tinted liquid.
Originally Posted by KCblues
Thanks, I didnt' realize there were affordable Tech 2 units available. From what I've read there are plenty of bootleg and early poor quality units on the market, too. Damn, another research project I wasn't planning for!
The outfit I picked mine up from is gone, but when I spoke to them via email they claimed they had the original contract to produce the tech 2 for GM in China and simply started selling them on the side once discontinued. The damn thing even came with branding stickers/labels for every device included, full software, and the latest firmware preinstalled. It felt like a gamble when I sent the order but turned out to be the best automotive deal i can remember partaking in. The thing has worked flawlessly.
If it helps here was the descriptive information from the invoice. Wonder if they are out there under a different name now.. btw prepare to be disgusted when you realize GM's markup to dealers/tuners on these things:
S/N Product Name Price Qty. Subtotal
1 Best Quality Tech2 Diagnostic Scanner for GM(entire kit including 32mb card and candi)
Item No.SP23-C
Color/Style:GM-English
Size/Spec.:- 339.00 1 339.00
Items TotalS$339.00 DiscountS$20.34(6%) Shipping CostS$150.70
Total SumS$469.36
Last edited by carefulnow; 04-18-2017 at 08:31 AM.
That blue dye gets everywhere. if even a few drops are still up under the reserviour cap, above the black rubber diaphragm it'll continue to turn the fluid blue every time you put the cap back on.
But my question is, did the fluid turn to blue crystals or is that just the picture quality?
I ran my 2004 Z06 with Track Guys school at Heartland Park this past Saturday. Fantastic, well-run event and beautiful new surface.
I've owned this very well-cared for C5Z, extremely low mileage car for 2 years and autocrossed it heavily the past 2 seasons but never flushed the brake fluid. I've only run it at a handful of track days and generally taken it pretty easy on the brakes at those events.
Expecting heavy brake usage at Heartland Park I flushed the brake fluid. The previous owner told me the car had ATE DOT 4 hi-temp brake fluid. It was certainly blue. I flushed the system in the proper order with Wilwood 570. It took about 5 of the 12 oz cans.
During my inspection of the car yesterday after the track day I was surprised at what I found in the master cylinder (see attached pic). Can you experienced guys tell me what I am seeing here?
Well no idea, but that looks bad, keep flushing until what is in the mc looks like real brake fluid. IIWM I would use some cheap dot 3/4 until it looks good. I have used ate blue & never saw that. That seems like a smokin deal on the tech 2 but I flush my abs unit by finding low grip and stomping the brakes. Like water or sand.
Don't know about your fluid, but how is the new pavement. Did they do
The entire course or just part of.
Thanks
The entire track has been resurfaced with high tech asphalt. Smooth as a baby's bottom, but still 'greasy' currently as the surface is still leaching out certain agents I'm sure and there's essentially no rubber down yet. Although I was trying hard today when the sun came out! lol
Bish
something is in there. i would suck out all you can from the MC and then flush. you don't want to leave it so that means replace it
ate super blue typically mixes fine with dot3/4 other brands. i had an extra can of super blue i wanted to use as it was new but 4 years old. bled the 4runner which had OE toyota fluid in it. a year later the super blue looks fine even with some cross contamination of the original toyota dot 3
My old master was pretty nasty and I remember floating gunk occasionally. It has since been changed but for unrelated reason. AFAIK I've never had a fluid issue.
Clean it out best you can, bleed and don't worry about.
Check this out.. just noticed it after trying to figure out why my freshly flushed/bled (including ABS) SRF was changing colour after one track day.
Prior had ATE Blue in it... the stuff clings on everywhere, and it had a greasy consistency. Perhaps some kind of interaction with the rubber? I would bet amounts of this stuff hidden under the cap (the rubber seal/diaphragm part) is what caused your 'floating jelly' crap.
Last edited by carefulnow; 05-05-2017 at 08:35 PM.
if the brakes worked fine, then you have nothing to worry about. Suck the reservoir dry with a baster/mity-vac and flush the heck out of it again before your next event. If you had serious moisture or contamination in you EBCM, you would have had brake problems.
04-17-2017, 07:44 AM
Brake Fluid after flush with Wilwood 570 from ATE DOT 4
S$339.00 Discount
