Dan H.

Talking about flipping them on the rim. So that outside is facing inside and vice versa. Even with -2.5 up front, I am still wearing the tire out to the triangles. Since the inside wear is no where near the triangles, I'd like to flip them and get some more laps out of them. 315/30's on a C5Z

Any issues at all? I don't use them in the rain

Thanks

REVHARD

Nt01 here also and no I have never flipped them. Still wearing the outside edge at -2.5?? Odd? Still on stock control arm bushings? Maybe it's time to step up on front spring rate.

REVHARD

Here you can see the front at -2.1...sorry couldnt zoom in any closer but the wear is at the arrow. Castor set at 7.2
Rear is -1.5

JRMaroon1

I've been flipping NT01s on the rim in order to extend their life and have not had any issues.

argonaut

I've flipped them. No issues.

Dan H.

Thanks guys,
My tires look a like REVHARD's tires. I thought bumping my camber up would help, but I'm still getting wear all the way to the triangles. I'll snap some pics tonight when I get home.

Control arm bushings are all Delrin and installed about a year ago. They are Ridetechs version 1 without the steel insert, but I'm thinking that would still solve the deflection question.

I have T1 bars but the stock spring. Is the ultimate fix more negative camber, or a stiffer spring, or both? My springs are stock. They probably aren't tired, car only has 25k miles, but the rate may not be enough. Is there a spring that people go to on here? Doesn't seem like a commonly changed item unless people are racing for real. I'm a track day guy.

Thanks for sharing the experience on flipping, I'm going to go ahead and have them flipped around before my next event. I fear seeing the silver cord ring on the outside edge by the triangles. I have three days at WGI coming up and don't want to be in a corded tire situation like I was last year.

TrackAire

I talked to Nitto at SEMA and they confirmed that there is no issue in flipping the NT-01's and have many customers that do it.

Dan H.

No better confirmation than that!

REVHARD

I can tell you when I had factory springs, DRM Bilsteins and LG T1 bars the car was quite quick and easy to drive. The only problem I had was the outside tire wear compared to the inside, plus massive nose dive.

I jumped on the coilovers bandwagon and the car was way to stiff whwhen using nt01 tired and the LG bars. 650/600 spring rates. Plis, i think the front LG bar is 39mm (huge!) The car literally would not roll, had weird tire wear and difficult to drive. I really regretted the coilovers decision and was quite upset with myself. It was still quick just more difficult to drive. I felt I took a few steps backward. My car is on Delrin bushings from Phoenix also. After much thought I knew I had to much wheel spring rate for the tires I was using. I called Strano and had a conversation with Sam. I didn't want to drop down the spring rate and thought it would be easier to just go with the lighter bars. I ended up with the 35mm hollow front and his 27mm rear. It literally transformed the car. It was like instant traction again everywhere. Not to mention, perfect tire wear.

Without writing a novel but to just tell you what I've learned so you don't waste your time and money. If I did it all over again...I most likely would just go to a stiffer front leaf and keep the t1 bars. But no going back for me. I think the stiifer front spring will help you tremendously and save you the time and money in constantly flipping your tires.

Dan H.

Dan H.

These have 6 track days in them, 4 at summit and 2 at VIR. They have a ton of tread, but that corner wear concerns me.

They're in the truck now and I'm dropping them off at my shop in the morning. Is there any way to tell the amount of rubber on the corners like this?

Dan H.

Thanks for sharing your experience. I'll start doing some searching on here to see what I can learn about springs. There seems to be a lot of spring rate options. I've also read that T1 springs aren't a whole lot different than the stock Z06 parts. One of these days I'll stop having to do 2 alignments a year!

REVHARD

Bro that tire wear is absolutely perfect!!! Absolutely no need to flip them whatsoever. You're wasting money and time for nothing. In my pics you can still see the large tread blocks on the outside. What you don't see is the inners are slicks with 2 grooves. The fonts are getting there. You will NOT cord them from what you've just showed me and have a looooong way to go before you do.

SocalC5Z

I completely agree. In my experience, you will always see a difference in wear from the inside to outside on a street setup where you have not optimized camber with a pyrometer, especially with stock bushings. I've found that the Nitto's cycle out long before they cord. I can't think of a set I ever wore out YMMV.

To that point...here is a pic of my 555RII's (same compound as NT01's) that still have rubber but are cycled out. These have 13 track days and finally gave it up last event.

edge04

OP what tire pressure you typically run them at?

Dan H.

I start at 27 cold all around

Rx7Rob

Those look new!

I have more wear on the drivers side tires than the pass side. I'm going to try rotating wheels side / side (not flipping on rim).

froggy47

To the op, those look under inflated hence the excess outside wear, suggest use a probe pyrometer to confirm your inflation choice. Many threads on how to do this.



BTW I flip all tires as needed.